I'll still try it next week for a bit of fun though.That will make it a 325 rpm motor, it will work on the flat if you help it off the line. True you may have problems on the hills thoughMaybe 12S is better left to a 201 rpm Q100...
ebike build from scratch
- Thread starter awol
- Start date
I must look into these Lipos.
I know they are not as simple to maintain/ use, but got to be worth a look.
I know they are not as simple to maintain/ use, but got to be worth a look.
If you learn how to use them they can be quite cost effective.
For example Hobbyking currently have 10ah 6s+4s multistars on sale, so thats a 37v 10ah battery for £85+del
D
Deleted member 4366
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Well that cost is a good incentive. I’ll look into it for my Specialised project.
I’m tall enough to have the ‘under the seat’ number too.
Any pictures of the inside of the bag?
I’m tall enough to have the ‘under the seat’ number too.
Any pictures of the inside of the bag?
I can't recommend HobbyKing any more because there is no longer a UK or EU warehouse mentioned on their site and when you see a promo on LiPo it is never available where I live... LiPo only makes economical sense if you can buy it discounted, never if you are paying list price.
Update: OK in their latest redesign they have put the warehouse list in the cart page... So you don't know if the product you put in the cart is in stock until you go to checkout. Apparently they are still hellbent on building the worst online shopping experience in the world!
As for pricing a 16 Ah nominative (14 Ah real) 12S 44.4v Graphene battery would cost 365€, a 48v 14 Ah LG celled battery from pswpower is 245€. The LG cells appear to be 10 A discharge so compare favorably to LiPo though not quite as much oompffff...
UPDATE 2: so they do have Multistar on sale in the EU at the moment... 170€ for a 16 Ah (real) 12S 44.4v Multistar battery - 700 Wh. That is competitive for me because I have chargers etc on hand.
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On top you will need a lipo charger £10 - £100.
A 240v - dc ouput psu unit for charger as most chargers are dc voltage and output more watts for charging £30 - £50.
lipo alarms/monitors £3 - £5 each.
Adapter leads for serial or parallel connection sometimes both.
Also you will have to monitor the charging as you are the bms, they are not a leave alone charging solution.
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Inside the bag.
I took this pic about a year ago when planning the idea. Thats 37v 10aH graphene lipo's just fit in there.
There does seem a lot to the lipos.
With that in mind what would be available in Lipo for a 48v hub motor. (Q128C) and 17A controller?
I can start my homework then !
With that in mind what would be available in Lipo for a 48v hub motor. (Q128C) and 17A controller?
I can start my homework then !
Unfortunately I can't help with 48v as I am only a 36v controller person. Maybe start a new thread about using them with 48v and I may also learn something from it.
However, start browsing hobbyking website and check the UK icon when listing sections.
LiPo comes in various sizes but anything over 6S is exotic when it comes to reasonably priced chargers. So for e-bike use 4S, 5S and 6S packs are the most common ones. You do the math 48v is 13S but 10S or 12S are the easiest, lightest and cheapest combinations to have from the packs on sale.
LiPo is only cost effective if you buy at sale price otherwise 18650 cells win hands down.
Power wise LiPo used to be the king but 18650 cells of 10A constant output and above in decent capacity (Ah) have arrived on the market over the last three years.
When I get into making my own Li-Ion batteries, thanks to the new spot welders on the market, I won't be bothering with 18650 Li-Ion but the more powerful, larger capacity 20700 or similar cells.
Sensible lipo 48v option is 12s, only look at 6s to be honest if it is on sale as AK has mentioned. Preferably 10, 12 or 16 ah bricks. There is a 20ah brick but it is a monster.
2 x 6s in series gives 12s so you need a series connector as well plus may be some extra 12awg wire to make any extension required, also you will then need some xt 60 or 90's.
As you can see the list goes on so its no just a case of buying lipo's because they look or seem cheap.
Like a lot of others on here been there done it, got the T-shirt.
2 x 6s in series gives 12s so you need a series connector as well plus may be some extra 12awg wire to make any extension required, also you will then need some xt 60 or 90's.
As you can see the list goes on so its no just a case of buying lipo's because they look or seem cheap.
Like a lot of others on here been there done it, got the T-shirt.
I've had to take the rear derailleur off this bike already to use on my daily commuter after a catastrophic derailleur disaster this morning so need to purchase a new one.
Since I had chain jumping issues on this bike can anyone recommend a rear derailleur which definitely works well with the DNP 11-32 freewheel on this bike.
Since I had chain jumping issues on this bike can anyone recommend a rear derailleur which definitely works well with the DNP 11-32 freewheel on this bike.
I am all ears because I have one of those to mount on the Mxus. I am hoping the faithful Acera will be up to the task - 2 bikes and 6000 km so far!
I still think it could be the chain being too new/stiff. What I will do is order a slightly different derailleur,a Shimano RD-M310 If the chain still jumps I will put a cheaper chain on and let you know which has hopefully sorted it.
D
Deleted member 4366
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Use 12S for 48v, then the controller's LVC will work as a safe cut-off without need for other monitoring systems.
For chain jump, try reducing the b dimension as far as possible - even if it means relieving the b screw landing face on the derailleur hanger (by hacksaw or grinding) . This mod has always worked for me to cure chain jump
I got a cheaper derailleur, a Shimano RD-M310 today.
Funny you should mention the b-screw, I noticed this one had the screw fully out when new whereas the other derailleur had the b-screw fully in when new (which I left at that.) This M310 has larger jockey wheels for some reason so hope it is the right type.
Havent tried setting and adjusting this one yet but will bear that b-screw in mind when I do.
The quality KMC X8.99 chain still skipped with a second derailleur so swapped it for a cheaper KMC Z8S and problem has more or less gone. However it still skipped at first until I flexed the chain about and span the pedals rapidly in all gears (basically loosened the chain a bit). Result
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