ebike build from scratch

[awol]

The next bike project is to build a light ebike from scratch, not even a donor bike to start with, just a new frame and parts I already have in my garage which never got fitted to upgrade my current bike and purchase the least I can, I think I have enough parts.
I do need to buy a frame though and after a couple of weeks of deciding, the frame search ended with one from Planetx called the London Road Super Commuter which is light with carbon forks and has this in it's description.
“The Do it all Super Commuter - Featuring a more relaxed geometry, the usual frontal weight associated with road bikes is actually moved further backward, off your shoulders and wrists, to bring the center of gravity closer to you also built in clearance for up to 40mm tyres”
Just what I want, I love the colour too and here it is out of the box..


To be continued…….

 

[DynatechFan]

nice frame nice colour - you getting the full matching commuter kit in the green too? What conversion type (hub/mid?) are you planning?

 

[awol]

nice frame nice colour - you getting the full matching commuter kit in the green too? What conversion type (hub/mid?) are you planning?

I liked the colour from as soon as I saw it online and it looks better in real life as it's a kind of metallic effect.
I am going for a rear hub motor.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Which motor are you going to use?

 

[awol]

Which motor are you going to use?

At first I'm using a Q100H 260rpm then maybe switch it for the small xiongda.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The new Xiongda should be a lot better now that they've added sensors. That will get rid of the delay and make it quieter. I wonder if they've done anything to make it run more freely. they mentioned that that was something to do with the double reduction system.

 

[Man]

The new Xiongda should be a lot better now that they've added sensors. That will get rid of the delay and make it quieter. I wonder if they've done anything to make it run more freely. they mentioned that that was something to do with the double reduction system.

Hi Dave,if you are interested i will buy your front motor with the controller.

 

[awol]

Turns out the forks don't come assembled to the frame so I need to buy a headset bearing. I then needed a special tool to seat the lower part called a crown race onto the fork so to overcome purchasing a special tool I used a piece of plastic tube with small slits cut down the sides to allow for expansion and mallet the crown race in place.

The fork stem comes way too long so then the forks needed hacksawing to length after working out how many spacers I'm using plus the stem.

Ever heard the phrase 'bitten off more than you can chew' ? I'm thinking that already.

Hopefully it will end up looking like this-


To be continued ...

 

[harrys]

Your crown race install looked easy, if a plastic pipe pushed it in place. I think the one I installed on my fork must have been the wrong diameter, as I had to use a metal pipe, a 7/16" threaded rod, nuts, and around 20-30 foot-pounds of constant torque to force it on.

 

[Nealh]

All new forks are supplied with an over long head steerer 300mm or so( for cutting down) to suit any head tube length.
I have never had any issues with crown races a couple of decent screwdrivers to lever up from both sides and a gentle tap when refitting with wooden block. Some races are now a split design so fitting removal is made easier.

 

[awol]

All new forks are supplied with an over long head steerer 300mm or so( for cutting down) to suit any head tube length.
I have never had any issues with crown races a couple of decent screwdrivers to lever up from both sides and a gentle tap when refitting with wooden block. Some races are now a split design so fitting removal is made easier.

For some mad reason I thought they would come assembled as a set.
I was a bit nervous cutting the forks down as I didn't want to get that wrong so practised cutting a small amount off first then measured and cut to a slightly longer length so I can put a 5mm spacer above the stem too as some roadbike racers seem to like doing.

 

[Nealh]

For cutting the tube I use a copper tube cutter for a guaranteed clean straight cut.

 

[awol]

I am also making both wheels.
The front wheel built a while ago and ended up not using on my current bike. Built from a Mavic A119 rim and a Shimano M525 hub.

The rear wheel also built using a Mavic A119 rim and a small Q100H Motor

And I've a couple of discs's and Schwalbe Land Cruiser tyres spare in the garage.


To be continued ...

 

[awol]

It's starting to take shape before I trimmed the forks down.

 

[awol]

A busy day today in the office (the garage)
For the front crank, I have a Shimano m590 hollowtech crankset which is too good for my commuting bike.

I only need a single gear at the front and struggled to find one to buy at the time so for chain alignment I moved the largest outer ring onto the centre rings position and made some shaped spacer washers to fill the voids on the outer face.


To get the PAS disc to fit I holesawed a 2” hole in the centre of the PAS ring and drilled holes to match the inner ring holes and screw the PAS disc to the crank through those.

Assembled it fit's quite well.



To be continued ...

 

[awol]

I messed up fitting the bottom bracket ends. I screwed them in without those black spacer washers and squashed/split the plastic tube between the bearings.

Oops, won't do that again.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I always chuck that plastic tube. It doesn't do anything.

 

[awol]

I always chuck that plastic tube. It doesn't do anything.

Wish I'd known that sooner as I went and ordered a new bottom bracket for it, thinking it was important. Any chance you could 'chuck' your next one my way?

 

[awol]

Derailleur Day.
I have a new Shimano Alivio derailleur which never got fitted to my current bike because at the time I found just changing the jockey wheels on that got it working well.

and found a KMC8.99 chain in the cupboard I got on offer a while back.

Could there be any compatibility issues between these and the Hollowtech front gear and a DNP 8sp Freewheel? as I have managed to get it changing gear OK when lifted up on the stand but a quick test on the road I cannot get 1st gear to stop jumping on the freewheel, also up on the stand applying the brake gently and trying to pedal makes the chain jump on the freewheel in 1st gear. Any ideas?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You sometimes get incompatibility issues if you mix and match components. What shifter are you using?