Dahon Jetstream conversion

D

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I just reached the max the screw can go
That throws a different light on it. I thought that you meant that the screw was coming undone. If i understand right, it's the one that sets the reach, which is the distance between the lever and handlebar, so the piston must be working its way in, which might mean that its leaking internally, or you're losing some oil somewhere. Normally, you can see external leaks from the pipe joints etc. You still need to take the pads out to see if there's oil behind them. Do not operate the brake lever when the pads are out or else the pistons will come out and you'll have a lot of trouble.
 

cwah

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Jun 3, 2011
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I just removed the brake pad and I think I managed to make the impossible possible:




The pads seem dry when I touch them. But it does feel I directly touch the metal... which mean the rubber is completely gone... and that the pads have to be replaced :(

I only have used it for a couple of weeks and it's already gone. I suppose I need to get new ones???

where I can get them for cheap as I need to change them every 2 weeks?
 

cwah

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Getting worse now... the brake does not seem to have any effect anymore..

It seems to be something leaking or I don't know how to tighten the brake...

It's really dangerous now because I can only brake with my front brake and it's definitely not braking well at ALL.

I think I'm going to order another brake until this one gets repaired. And maybe at the same time raise an ebay dispute as the brake is already dead. :(
 

cwah

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aaah III can't raise a dispute as the purchase has been done more than 45 days ago :(
 

cwah

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I'm going to buy the same disc brake from the seller so at least I'll get one set working until I find a way to fix this one.

Cost 40GBP but I hope it worth it and nothing is more expensive than an accident :(
 

cwah

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yeah but checking my bike again it looks like a problem with the liquid. I've noticed I loose significant braking power every time I turn my bike upside down for repair...

I'm not sure what exactly is the problem but I think I'm going to order a new disc brake set for now..
 

trex

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May 15, 2011
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I just removed the brake pad and I think I managed to make the impossible possible:




The pads seem dry when I touch them. But it does feel I directly touch the metal... which mean the rubber is completely gone... and that the pads have to be replaced :(

I only have used it for a couple of weeks and it's already gone. I suppose I need to get new ones???

where I can get them for cheap as I need to change them every 2 weeks?
Even cheap pads will last 1000 miles.
your pads are nor worn evenly, the ridge near the clip hole stops the pads contacting the rotor.
You need to adjust the mounting of your brake in such a way that the rotor makes contact with all of the pad's surface (move the brake body nearer to the centre of the wheel)
 
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D

Deleted member 4366

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yeah but checking my bike again it looks like a problem with the liquid. I've noticed I loose significant braking power every time I turn my bike upside down for repair...

I'm not sure what exactly is the problem but I think I'm going to order a new disc brake set for now..
You often get that with hydraulic discs because any air in the main reservoir goes into the tube when you turn it upside-down, but then it works its way back into the reservoir like a sort of self-bleeding.
 

cwah

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How can I adjust the ridge in order to have it allow the pads to touch the rotor?

When turning back the bike to the right direction it's still not getting better, even after 1 day standing
 

shemozzle999

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Sep 28, 2009
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It could be the two worn ridges are touching when you apply the brakes, if the ridge depths add up to the same thickness as the disc.

Remove the ridges with a file and taper whats left back to the backing plate so that it can't build up again - try not to breath in any dust you make.

Do the adjustments advised when you have to fit new pads.
 

cwah

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thanks Shemozzle, but if you look at the video you can see the 2 ridge don't touch each other. So I'm not sure removing the ridge would make any difference.
 

jackhandy

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A bastard file will sort the ridge - just go easy - don't get carried away :confused:

Oh, and do it outdoors so you don't breathe in the dust.

Hah! great minds think alike - & fools...
 

cwah

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C

Cyclezee

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A bastard file will sort the ridge - just go easy - don't get carried away :confused:

Oh, and do it outdoors so you don't breathe in the dust.

Hah! great minds think alike - & fools...
Language Timothy:eek:.....or is it Pete:D
 
C

Cyclezee

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I had the same theory as Shemozzle i.e. pads touching as the caliper is not fitted correctly and resulting radically in reducing pressure on the disc.

A couple more thoughts, do you have the correct diameter rotor and what condition is it in, is the caliper adapter bracket the wrong size thus preventing the whole of the pad contacting the disc?
 
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jackhandy

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The ridge shouldn't be there, & indicates your caliper & disc are not aligned properly.
The pads have apparently worn down quickly, which may explain why there's not enough fluid to close them up any further.
Filing is merely a temporary measure to eliminate pad binding from the equasion.

You need new pads, proper alignment or new caliper & maybe disc too.
 

trex

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May 15, 2011
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cwah,
you will have to replace the pads anyway, they are too worn to be safe.
Before you install the new pads though, if you could post some pictures of your rotor and the mount of the caliper, we'll have a better idea why part of your pads is outside the rotor's surface.
 

cwah

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Here are the pictures of the rotor, mount:






How can you tell it's not fitted correctly? It was braking very well 2 weeks ago...

I ordered a new brake set (exact same one), I'm waiting for them to arrive to see what's the diagnostic