yeah - seems ok for £200 - quite funky BMXy looking. My mother in law will look very cool cycling round Didsburynice bike.
yeah - seems ok for £200 - quite funky BMXy looking. My mother in law will look very cool cycling round Didsburynice bike.
You can use any one you want. The enclose type that clip into the left side BB are neat, but not as durable as the open type because they get clogged with dirt that jams and wears them, though the open type can get busted if the chain comes off or they can wear through if they keep getting clogged with dirt. My favourite is the 10 magnet open type.Also, what would be the best KT PAS sensor to fit this
(I'm fine removing cranks)
..........done 10,000 fair weather miles with one of those. I`d hazard a guess the mother in law will be a fair weather rider as well.The enclose type that clip into the left side BB are neat
A rear rack battery would be simple and logical. Leave the front for a shopping basket, which is what she'd want.Just musing about battery placement - my mother in law is quite petite so I think a 36V 10Ah battery will be fine
View attachment 60158
View attachment 60159
I was thinking about a seat post battery, either mount it on the seat post , underneath the saddle, or on the handlebar tube , or wondering if I could do something with this mounting point for a front basket. Weight will be around 2.5 kg
Any opinions or ideas ?
I think that basket mounting screw threads on the headtube are ideal because the you can have the weight of the battery and the controller at the front without that weight being added to the turning of the bike assuming you are fitting a front hub motor. I would fit a large enough basket that you can fit a waterproof base to and mount the controller and possibly battery pack underneath the basket. Of course this all depends on battery pack capacity and design and the controller but I've seen it done neatly on a rear rack and can't see why it couldn't be done one the front too. A little extra weight here will help with grip at the front. I do realise that it might interfere more with the fold at the front it depends on how its done I suppose. However it could be a really neat solution with all the wires except for the cadence sensor wires all being on the front of the bike and you could make the cables quite short and neat. Also returning to a normal bike would be relatively easy with removing the front basket and swopping to a normal front wheel.Just musing about battery placement - my mother in law is quite petite so I think a 36V 10Ah battery will be fine
View attachment 60158
View attachment 60159
I was thinking about a seat post battery, either mount it on the seat post , underneath the saddle, or on the handlebar tube , or wondering if I could do something with this mounting point for a front basket. Weight will be around 2.5 kg
Any opinions or ideas ?
I'd quite like to do this as an experiment - it wouldn't interfere with the folding I think - I know this is a silly question but how do I find the correct screw thread for the headtubeI think that basket mounting screw threads on the headtube are ideal because the you can have the weight of the battery and the controller at the front without that weight being added to the turning of the bike assuming you are fitting a front hub motor. I would fit a large enough basket that you can fit a waterproof base to and mount the controller and possibly battery pack underneath the basket. Of course this all depends on battery pack capacity and design and the controller but I've seen it done neatly on a rear rack and can't see why it couldn't be done one the front too. A little extra weight here will help with grip at the front. I do realise that it might interfere more with the fold at the front it depends on how its done I suppose. However it could be a really neat solution with all the wires except for the cadence sensor wires all being on the front of the bike and you could make the cables quite short and neat. Also returning to a normal bike would be relatively easy with removing the front basket and swopping to a normal front wheel.
You take an M5 and and M6 screw and you see which one fits. It's impossible to tell from a photo, but probably M5.I'd quite like to do this as an experiment - it wouldn't interfere with the folding I think - I know this is a silly question but how do I find the correct screw thread for the headtubeView attachment 60173
Well you are not too far from me, we could meet up sometimeMust get a ride on a front motor bike some day to try out feel and handling. Been thinking for a while about converting the Brompton.
Mind you - i already have 2 e-bikes, so it isn't exactly pressing.
That's a good thought. When i get the urge to do it, i will send a message to see when it might be convenient, if it isn't too much trouble for you. Thanks.Well you are not too far from me, we could meet up sometime
As per @Nealh 's experiences with his Bafang G370 this bike is easy to pedal above the motor cut off speed (set to 25km/h)
View attachment 60430
(I did have to set the assist level to 0 to double check the motor wasn't assisting, it is very quiet)
Which makes me think the 1.44kg AKM-75 hub may be an "poor man's" alternative to the Mahle X35 or Cytronex kit for a road bike
So how did you attach the battery to the frame? I know your frame has two bolt holes but the pictures on Yosepower seem to show some kind of seatpost clip.Got the motor and wheel and KT controller from tbk on Saturday
Everything fitted very easily , including disc rotor.
I drilled a couple of holes in the battery cradle mounting plate and attached to the front rack mounting point (it was designed as a seat post battery). Just thought, because it is quite an upright seating position, this would put a bit of extra weight over the front wheel and help grip.
Total weight including 36v 10.4 Ah battery, just under 18 kg. If I used a bag battery that would probably save best part of a kg. Seen some identical cased batteries that fit in 36v 15Ah Samsung cells which would fit the battery cradle.
Total cost
Donor bike Facebook £200
Mudguards / rack (Ali). £40
Kickstand / mirror Free ( off old bikes)
Marathon 365 tyres *2 £55 total
(Supposed to be all season, on and off road , with puncture protection)
Tbk motor wheel, KT controller and display, pas sensor £250
Yosepower battery , cradle + charger £170 ( if it has been for myself , I think I would have been able to get the 36v 15Ah Sony battery, cradle and charger off a well rated Ali vendor for that price.)
View attachment 60403View attachment 60404View attachment 60405
Yes so the Yosepower battery cradle attachment has 2 parts to it,So how did you attach the battery to the frame? I know your frame has two bolt holes but the pictures on Yosepower seem to show some kind of seatpost clip.
Outstanding. I believe Ferrari are looking for a new chief engineer, you should apply!Yes so the Yosepower battery cradle attacment has 2 parts to it,
1) A baseplate (I drilled two holes in this to fit into the frame holes and attached with countersunk bolts)
View attachment 60434View attachment 60433
2) the seat post attachment bit that I didn't need
View attachment 60435
The battery cradle (which you need to disassemble) then fits onto the baseplate. I needed to hacksaw a bit of the back of the battery cradle so they the sides of the heads of the countersunk bolts didn't catch
no need to install the pedal sensor? Cool!!!DWG2NC. Same weight but easier to install. If you can wait until December, I will have the Tongsheng 85TS kits in stock. It's lighter and easier to fit, no need to install the pedal sensor. Just install the battery and drop in the motor wheel. Perfect if you have pressfit bb. I have been using it on my full sus bike in the last 6 months.