yeah - seems ok for £200 - quite funky BMXy looking. My mother in law will look very cool cycling round Didsbury
Help! Converting folder bike to cassette
- Thread starter Peter.Bridge
- Start date
You can use any one you want. The enclose type that clip into the left side BB are neat, but not as durable as the open type because they get clogged with dirt that jams and wears them, though the open type can get busted if the chain comes off or they can wear through if they keep getting clogged with dirt. My favourite is the 10 magnet open type.
..........done 10,000 fair weather miles with one of those. I`d hazard a guess the mother in law will be a fair weather rider as well.
I`ll add that my next mile stone is 12,427.424 miles just to keep the enthusiasm going.
Just musing about battery placement - my mother in law is quite petite so I think a 36V 10Ah battery will be fine
I was thinking about a seat post battery, either mount it on the seat post , underneath the saddle, or on the handlebar tube , or wondering if I could do something with this mounting point for a front basket. Weight will be around 2.5 kg
Any opinions or ideas ?
I was thinking about a seat post battery, either mount it on the seat post , underneath the saddle, or on the handlebar tube , or wondering if I could do something with this mounting point for a front basket. Weight will be around 2.5 kg
Any opinions or ideas ?
I decided rear rackmount was the best option because it doesn't impede folding. CofG is pretty low (a tad lower on my Dahon Helios P8), so it doesn't affect handling much... unless I am attempting literal 45 degree or greater inclines, in which case the rest of the bike's design is the bigger issue from the point of view of balance. Piece of pallet wood bolted through with the battery mount and nyloced on with short aluminium flat bars (chipboard joining plates), and rubber sheet in between, to prevent erosion of the aluminium rack - this was meant to be a temporary solution, but worked so well and is covered by two rucksack covers anyway, that I haven't bothered to upgrade it with the 100g lighter rectangular box section aliminium I bought to replace the pallet wood with (yet?). Rot-proof and lightweight (& filled with toxic poisons), is pallet wood... but my plan was to move the 19.2Ah battery nearer to the seatpost to improve balance. Like I said, not needed. I did eventually find saddlebags which fitted over the battery.
Or you could form something to fit the frame's curve and clear the hinge?
https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/electric2011-dahon-jetstream-p8.10584/
Or you could form something to fit the frame's curve and clear the hinge?
https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/electric2011-dahon-jetstream-p8.10584/
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A rear rack battery would be simple and logical. Leave the front for a shopping basket, which is what she'd want.
I think that basket mounting screw threads on the headtube are ideal because the you can have the weight of the battery and the controller at the front without that weight being added to the turning of the bike assuming you are fitting a front hub motor. I would fit a large enough basket that you can fit a waterproof base to and mount the controller and possibly battery pack underneath the basket. Of course this all depends on battery pack capacity and design and the controller but I've seen it done neatly on a rear rack and can't see why it couldn't be done one the front too. A little extra weight here will help with grip at the front. I do realise that it might interfere more with the fold at the front it depends on how its done I suppose. However it could be a really neat solution with all the wires except for the cadence sensor wires all being on the front of the bike and you could make the cables quite short and neat. Also returning to a normal bike would be relatively easy with removing the front basket and swopping to a normal front wheel.
I'd quite like to do this as an experiment - it wouldn't interfere with the folding I think - I know this is a silly question but how do I find the correct screw thread for the headtube
You take an M5 and and M6 screw and you see which one fits. It's impossible to tell from a photo, but probably M5.
Got the motor and wheel and KT controller from tbk on Saturday
Everything fitted very easily , including disc rotor.
I drilled a couple of holes in the battery cradle mounting plate and attached to the front rack mounting point (it was designed as a seat post battery). Just thought, because it is quite an upright seating position, this would put a bit of extra weight over the front wheel and help grip.
Total weight including 36v 10.4 Ah battery, just under 18 kg. If I used a bag battery that would probably save best part of a kg. Seen some identical cased batteries that fit in 36v 15Ah Samsung cells which would fit the battery cradle.
Total cost
Donor bike Facebook £200
Mudguards / rack (Ali). £40
Kickstand / mirror Free ( off old bikes)
Marathon 365 tyres *2 £55 total
(Supposed to be all season, on and off road , with puncture protection)
Tbk motor wheel, KT controller and display, pas sensor £250
Yosepower battery , cradle + charger £170 ( if it has been for myself , I think I would have been able to get the 36v 15Ah Sony battery, cradle and charger off a well rated Ali vendor for that price.)
Everything fitted very easily , including disc rotor.
I drilled a couple of holes in the battery cradle mounting plate and attached to the front rack mounting point (it was designed as a seat post battery). Just thought, because it is quite an upright seating position, this would put a bit of extra weight over the front wheel and help grip.
Total weight including 36v 10.4 Ah battery, just under 18 kg. If I used a bag battery that would probably save best part of a kg. Seen some identical cased batteries that fit in 36v 15Ah Samsung cells which would fit the battery cradle.
Total cost
Donor bike Facebook £200
Mudguards / rack (Ali). £40
Kickstand / mirror Free ( off old bikes)
Marathon 365 tyres *2 £55 total
(Supposed to be all season, on and off road , with puncture protection)
Tbk motor wheel, KT controller and display, pas sensor £250
Yosepower battery , cradle + charger £170 ( if it has been for myself , I think I would have been able to get the 36v 15Ah Sony battery, cradle and charger off a well rated Ali vendor for that price.)
Impressive result, and a build thread that should ease the self-doubt of first timers.
Well done!
Well done!
Must get a ride on a front motor bike some day to try out feel and handling. Been thinking for a while about converting the Brompton.
Mind you - i already have 2 e-bikes, so it isn't exactly pressing.
Mind you - i already have 2 e-bikes, so it isn't exactly pressing.
Well you are not too far from me, we could meet up sometime
As per @Nealh 's experiences with his Bafang G370 this bike is easy to pedal above the motor cut off speed (set to 25km/h)
(I did have to set the assist level to 0 to double check the motor wasn't assisting, it is very quiet)
Which makes me think the 1.44kg AKM-75 hub may be an "poor man's" alternative to the Mahle X35 or Cytronex kit for a road bike
That's a good thought. When i get the urge to do it, i will send a message to see when it might be convenient, if it isn't too much trouble for you. Thanks.
My Argos doesn't pedal above about 17 miles an hour, not that i am bothered by that really. That bike is just for leaping on and heading out on a local message. Even so, i have ridden it 373 miles already.
So how did you attach the battery to the frame? I know your frame has two bolt holes but the pictures on Yosepower seem to show some kind of seatpost clip.
Yes so the Yosepower battery cradle attachment has 2 parts to it,
1) A baseplate (I drilled two holes in this to fit into the frame holes and attached with countersunk bolts M6* 16mm )
2) the seat post attachment bit that I didn't need
The battery cradle (which you need to disassemble) then fits onto the baseplate. I needed to hacksaw a bit of the back of the battery cradle so they the sides of the heads of the countersunk bolts didn't catch
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Outstanding. I believe Ferrari are looking for a new chief engineer, you should apply!
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