Burisch offroad electric bike, new for £649 on ebay

[OxygenJames]

Hello there
I'm new on this forum and I'm in the market for a E-bike and although I like the look of the bike on E-bay by the time you've changed the gears etc won't you be better purchacing something like the Kudos King which seems to be and meet most of what people want except for the extra speed that Oxygenjames talks about with a wink and also nearly three hundred pounds more.
Best Wishes Tony B.

It all depends on what you like! If you're OK with the battery on a rack at the back then that opens up a whole lot of other bikes you might like. As many people here say - go try a variety and see which ones you take a liking to. You'll never really know until you ride them and see them up close.

 

[eddieo]

I would go for the Burich everytime based on looks and weight alone.......Sorry but the kudos just looks so Chinese to me. some manage to have batteries on rear rack that dont look to bad but this?

 

[tcblue]

I think the burisch is a nice weight 20kg (i am not sure what the kudos king weighs)and can be used just like a normal bike if you are feeling like a bit of a work out,i have a rack mounted battery bike and the burisch i find the weight at the back you notice it and the rack and battery seem to be constantly rattling prob the kudos will not rattle but it does add more weight,with the burisch no rattles and you dont notice the weight of battery and motor,i guess it also depends on how much you will be using the battery i only use it for a few hills and windy conditions

 

[Brakers]

I would go for the Burich everytime based on looks and weight alone.......Sorry but the kudos just looks so Chinese to me. some manage to have batteries on rear rack that dont look to bad but this?

Hi Eddieo
I'm not sure what you mean by looking so Chinese, it looks to me like a normal mountain bike with a carrier on the back and a battery. Are you talking about the Kudos King or another of their bikes. Please can you explain.
The weight for others on this forum is 23.2kg with battery.
Best Wishes Tony B.

 

[eddieo]

By Chinese I mean its a nice way of saying it looks cheap

the rear rack is poorly conceived and unsightly IMO...Some carry this out alright and some don't. I would not have a bike with battery weight up so high anyway, with rear wheel motor and my weight as well I cant imagine it being nice to ride. I prefer battery in the triangle, and front motor, you end up with a nicely balanced bike..... just my opinion thats all, believe me I'm no exspurt.

 

[fishingpaul]

Hello there
I'm new on this forum and I'm in the market for a E-bike and although I like the look of the bike on E-bay by the time you've changed the gears etc won't you be better purchacing something like the Kudos King which seems to be and meet most of what people want except for the extra speed that Oxygenjames talks about with a wink and also nearly three hundred pounds more.
Best Wishes Tony B.

The weight on the rear end on the kudos, with the battery and the motor mounted there,would put me off. it always seems so much easier to steer with one hand and lift the bike by the saddle with the other hand when manouvering around obstacles,a light rear end just feels so much easier to handle,i also find smaller chainwheels suit me better, i like to try and pedal as much as possible without assistance on the flat,fitting a larger chainwheel only helps if you want to go fast and use the motor most of the time,if you ever need to get home without motor assistance you need a small chainwheel.

 

[Ajax]

You have to open up the control box - you'll find the wire from the motor (which you have to disconnect) has 8 inner wires. Three of these inner wires come with connectors so those are easy you just pull them apart - the other 5 have soldered connections so I cut them after labelling the colour of two of them (the green and the blue looked very similar so I labelled them to be on the safe side)

Hi james, I got the freewheel and the 7spd changer SHIMANO SL-TX50 BIKE INDEX THUMB GEAR SHIFTERS RIGHT & LEFT 3X7 SPEED | eBay , however i'm unsure as to what is involved with removing the wheel. I understand the above, however...

- then you can separate out the wire completely which you need to do to take the back wheel completely out when you put the new freewheel on there - when putting them back together I just re-soldered them back as they were.
Good luck.

I can't quite figure out what you mean by 'separate out the wire completely'. Once the cable is removed from the controller, will i have to do anything else to the wire besides free it from the frame and feed it through the special nut its attached to.

Then there's the question of how you remove the wheel from the frame. I noticed an section in the frame onto which the derailier sits. Could you tell me how much of this '[torque?] insert' i need to mess with, in order to actually remove the wheel?

Thanks again for any advice.

 

[OxygenJames]

Hi james, I got the freewheel and the 7spd changer SHIMANO SL-TX50 BIKE INDEX THUMB GEAR SHIFTERS RIGHT & LEFT 3X7 SPEED | eBay , however i'm unsure as to what is involved with removing the wheel. I understand the above, however...



I can't quite figure out what you mean by 'separate out the wire completely'. Once the cable is removed from the controller, will i have to do anything else to the wire besides free it from the frame and feed it through the special nut its attached to.

Then there's the question of how you remove the wheel from the frame. I noticed an section in the frame onto which the derailier sits. Could you tell me how much of this '[torque?] insert' i need to mess with, in order to actually remove the wheel?

Thanks again for any advice.

Once you've opened up the controller and unplugged the three inner wires that have a connector and then cut the other 5 inner wires (ie all 8 inner wires are now free) - the back wheel will now come out - ie you can now treat it like any other back wheel - except that you have a long wire coming out the middle so you have to thread that through the nuts and washers and the holding brackets on the frame - but basically once you've separated those 8 inner wires you can remove the back wheel - just take it nice and slow and you will see that it will now come away completely.

 

[Ajax]

Once you've opened up the controller and unplugged the three inner wires that have a connector and then cut the other 5 inner wires (ie all 8 inner wires are now free) - the back wheel will now come out - ie you can now treat it like any other back wheel - except that you have a long wire coming out the middle so you have to thread that through the nuts and washers and the holding brackets on the frame - but basically once you've separated those 8 inner wires you can remove the back wheel - just take it nice and slow and you will see that it will now come away completely.

Ok i finally managed to removed the wheel and took it to my local bike store The Bike Shed Wales who were kind enough to fit the new freewheel for a couple of quid. Great chaps, highly recommended and well worthy of a plug. There's nothing like a few miles on 'shakes pony' to realize how much I've come to depend on the bike.

First thing i noticed with the new freewheel, is that the derailer is very close to the lowest gear, eg the largest cog 32T. Also i failed to take heed of your advise about adding a spacer to the gear side of the wheel, and so the wheel is going to have to come off again just to fit that . I did however add a few miniature spade connectors to the cable harness which should ease the process.

Still its looking good, just have to make the necessary adjustments on the derailer before trialling the new gears.

 

[Ajax]

Once you've opened up the controller and unplugged the three inner wires that have a connector and then cut the other 5 inner wires (ie all 8 inner wires are now free) - the back wheel will now come out - ie you can now treat it like any other back wheel - except that you have a long wire coming out the middle so you have to thread that through the nuts and washers and the holding brackets on the frame - but basically once you've separated those 8 inner wires you can remove the back wheel - just take it nice and slow and you will see that it will now come away completely.

Ok i finally managed to removed the wheel and took it to my local bike store The Bike Shed Wales who were kind enough to fit the new freewheel for a couple of quid. Great chaps, highly recommended and well worthy of a plug. There's nothing like a few miles on 'shanks pony' to realize how much I've come to depend on the bike.

First thing i noticed with the new freewheel, is that the derailer is very close to the lowest gear, eg the largest cog 32T. Also i failed to take heed of your advise about adding a spacer to the gear side of the wheel, and so the wheel is going to have to come off again just to fit that . I did however add a few miniature spade connectors to the cablewhich should ease the process.

Still its looking good, just have to make the necessary adjustments on the derailer before trialling the new gears.

 

[Ajax]

Final word on the new 11T - 32T 7spd freewheel.

It turns out i didn't need to remove the rear wheel a second time, or add any spacers. Adjusting the derailleur screws sorted the alignment issues. Cadence is now a lot better, with the new freewheel easily adding an extra 4mph when needed. The extra pressure on the crank, lead to a few creaks and groans, but that turned out to be the main crank nut begging to be tightened, and not as Halfords suggested, damage to the sealed crank unit.

On a precautionary note i would urge anyone purchasing a new bike to invest in some form of Chainstay protectors, particularly where the paint, as here, is non metallic.

 

[tcblue]

I had to take the rear wheel off needed to replace innertube and tyre but did not take notice the way the washers were fitted there seems to be three on each side of the wheel do any of these washers go on the inside of the frame next to the motor ?

thanks in advance terry

 

[Ajax]

I had to take the rear wheel off needed to replace innertube and tyre but did not take notice the way the washers were fitted there seems to be three on each side of the wheel do any of these washers go on the inside of the frame next to the motor ?

thanks in advance terry

You've probably already worked it out, but the spacer goes on the 'stand side' of the Wheel, then after you placed the wheel in the frame, you place the stand on, then the torque washer and the nut. The same for the gear side, this time no spacer, just the torque washer and and the nut.

 

[tcblue]

i know i am prob being a bit thick here but i have three washers on each side one being the torque washer and one a guess being a spacer why do you need a spacer ? but there does not seem any room to get any washers on the inside of the frame nearest the motor so i have three washers on the outside which looks a bit strange is it there because of the stand which i have taken off

 

[banbury frank]

Hi It is important you get this right

why don't you send a email to the supplier asking for close up photo off each side so you assemble correctly

Frank

 

[Ajax]

i know i am prob being a bit thick here but i have three washers on each side one being the torque washer and one a guess being a spacer why do you need a spacer ? but there does not seem any room to get any washers on the inside of the frame nearest the motor so i have three washers on the outside which looks a bit strange is it there because of the stand which i have taken off

The point of the spacer is to align the wheel so it sits evenly between the brake calipers. Frames may vary slightly, and so the amount of spacers necessary to achieve the correct alignment may vary. I'll try and upload pictures which i've taken of my bike's rare wheel.

 

[tcblue]

Ok great thanks

 

[Ajax]

Ok great thanks

Ok as promised here are the pics i took of my bike's rear including the new 11T freewheel.
In order:
Gear Side, just torque washer and nut with cover removed.
Gears showing no spacer.
Stand Side, showing stand then torque washer and nut.
Finally, Stand side with the spacer shown between bike frame and hub motor.
Could not be simpler.

 

[tcblue]

Thanks very much your a star, i do not have the spacer between frame and motor on the stand side it seems to be running ok but i guess i need to put it back in it's right place

 

[karanbil]

Hi James. I'm considering this cycle as my first venture into ebikes and have found your input most helpful, thanks.
My one question is regarding your problems with increasing chainwheel size and chain coming off.
Did you add links to the chain, or fit a new chain of correct length ?
Regards
Bill