Yes I can ! Unfortunately the motor is not a low cost item in this case at about £275 landed.
Broke my motor lead - new motor (and wheel build) or is it replaceable ?
- Thread starter 103Alex1
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That's a real nuisance that the legs are crossed. The LM35 in TO 220 package would have soldered straight in.
What you need to do is cut the legs to about 5mm long. Then solder on some thin wires like the hall wires about 3cm long or longer. Push some heatshrink over each wire to cover the remaining bare leg and joint. Then cut the wires down to about 2cm and strip the ends back a bit. Finally poke the ends through the holes from the opposite side to the solder joints and solder them to the pads in the sequence shown by Old_Dave's photo, which means the 0v and signal wire will cross over each other. Finally use a bit of sealant /epoxy to hold it tucked under and against the rim below the coils. Put a bit of sealant on the wires to hold them still as well. The sensor will be located on the opposite side to the pcb and wiring that you've just done. The middle leg (V out) will be soldered to the track that goes to the white wire.
What you need to do is cut the legs to about 5mm long. Then solder on some thin wires like the hall wires about 3cm long or longer. Push some heatshrink over each wire to cover the remaining bare leg and joint. Then cut the wires down to about 2cm and strip the ends back a bit. Finally poke the ends through the holes from the opposite side to the solder joints and solder them to the pads in the sequence shown by Old_Dave's photo, which means the 0v and signal wire will cross over each other. Finally use a bit of sealant /epoxy to hold it tucked under and against the rim below the coils. Put a bit of sealant on the wires to hold them still as well. The sensor will be located on the opposite side to the pcb and wiring that you've just done. The middle leg (V out) will be soldered to the track that goes to the white wire.
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You don''t need to use that cover, just use sealant to hold everything in place, but give it time to cure and make sure nothing can touch the rotor. Get the wires as flat as possible, but I think there's lots of clearance from the rotor.
Alex, dig deep, you have done so well with this repair, see it through, as I was told as an apprentice many many years ago......"The thought is worse than the deed"
It's just having the time available now johnc461165 more than not having the will. I don't have the available time next few days to devote to this or my project is gonna drag on way too long. Month ends are very busy in my game and I'm late with deadlines and away later in the week again. So will have a think about it and either take shemozzle up on his offer or disassemble the whole job and start again if I can find the hours in the day.
Didn't make the connection that there would be a rotor plate spinning over those wires until getting to this stage (am not naturally mechanically minded !) - so they cannot afford to spring up out of any sealing / seating compound used or they'll make contact with the rotor and be worn down causing a short.
Getting that plastic securing plate back on leaves half a millimetre of leaway for additional insulation or solder joins if you're lucky. I have about 2cm of extra bulk ! The job would have to be done with almost no additional insulation bulk for the plate to fit.
The original securing plate was clearly there for a reason - to keep wires from moving and potentially contacting the rotor plate when the motor is operating. Something just as effective should be put in its place or the job needs re-doing in such a way that the original plate can be reused. Well those are my gut feelings and instincts anyway trying to be realistic !
I am thinking more in terms of something like this :
http://www.intek-uk.com/xts320.htm (3 days to dry at that curing rate !)
Didn't make the connection that there would be a rotor plate spinning over those wires until getting to this stage (am not naturally mechanically minded !) - so they cannot afford to spring up out of any sealing / seating compound used or they'll make contact with the rotor and be worn down causing a short.
Getting that plastic securing plate back on leaves half a millimetre of leaway for additional insulation or solder joins if you're lucky. I have about 2cm of extra bulk ! The job would have to be done with almost no additional insulation bulk for the plate to fit.
The original securing plate was clearly there for a reason - to keep wires from moving and potentially contacting the rotor plate when the motor is operating. Something just as effective should be put in its place or the job needs re-doing in such a way that the original plate can be reused. Well those are my gut feelings and instincts anyway trying to be realistic !
I guess if I used a compression clamp to push the wires down into a large pool of sealant that was VERY strong then maybe it would work.
I am thinking more in terms of something like this :
http://www.intek-uk.com/xts320.htm (3 days to dry at that curing rate !)
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Looking at it again, this might do it - and with a 2-hour cure time the wires can be secured down with compression clamps into the sealant in a few stages to get really good adhesion to the stator body :
Fast cure sealant, RTV 2 part silicone. Sealant which cures at freezing temperatures
Having looked at it again and pushed the wires right down there is actually no way the rotor will make contact with any of the wires unless the sealant bond fails so it's just down to the quality / suitability of the adhesive used and whether it's up to the job for a potentially high vibration application.
I'm confident the contacts are very well made inside that bundle of insulation (and needless to say being triple shrinkwrapped in places blooming well insulated) and it does seem a bit crazy to have them all remade just on account of getting stumped securing some wires to a stator with a proper permanent seal.
There must be dozens of industrial applications where things need to be buttoned down not to pop free and therefore there must be a good enough adhesive it is simply a case of selecting and procuring it and then glueing the damned insulated wires down.
It actually doesn't even matter if the insulated wires are glued to the base of the central axle that's screwed on to the stator - after all, this isn't a moving part.
Does that stuff I've linked above look up to the task ? If I wasn't relying on only this without having the cover plate as a further securing mechanism am pretty sure regular RTV / black sealant would be up to the job, but seeing as I'm not ....
Fast cure sealant, RTV 2 part silicone. Sealant which cures at freezing temperatures
Having looked at it again and pushed the wires right down there is actually no way the rotor will make contact with any of the wires unless the sealant bond fails so it's just down to the quality / suitability of the adhesive used and whether it's up to the job for a potentially high vibration application.
I'm confident the contacts are very well made inside that bundle of insulation (and needless to say being triple shrinkwrapped in places blooming well insulated) and it does seem a bit crazy to have them all remade just on account of getting stumped securing some wires to a stator with a proper permanent seal.
There must be dozens of industrial applications where things need to be buttoned down not to pop free and therefore there must be a good enough adhesive it is simply a case of selecting and procuring it and then glueing the damned insulated wires down.
It actually doesn't even matter if the insulated wires are glued to the base of the central axle that's screwed on to the stator - after all, this isn't a moving part.
Does that stuff I've linked above look up to the task ? If I wasn't relying on only this without having the cover plate as a further securing mechanism am pretty sure regular RTV / black sealant would be up to the job, but seeing as I'm not ....
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For a quick job without clamps.... Superglue the cables into position then cover with whatever sealant
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Tried that one last night with serious glue, Old_Dave - superglue won't set the silicone insulator tape I put on. There'll be a way. Going to take some time out Tuesday to get a plan for the rest of the build mapped out, buttoned down and evaluated realistically - what's involved and what else is needed. In time, materials that I don't already have sitting waiting to be fixed up, and equally importantly skills and tools. Especially for a built-in build. Got a stack of work to shift in the meantime to keep me out of mischief.
Also need to check the Hall Sensors were not fried when the cable severed. There are signals from the wires off the PCB but their functionality hasn't been tested with one of those testers you linked recently so we don't know for sure the motor doesn't need replacement Halls till that is done. Doesn't seem sensible to close the motor up until the Hall function is verified as OK else it'll all have to be opened back up again for those to be repaired.
Blimey .... ......
.Got to say both shemozzle999 and d8veh have been saints over this today. I pretty much hit rock bottom this morning. My target completion date came and went on Thursday and I've still got lots to learn to get this finished.
It was likely far too ambitious for a 1st build attempt for someone with no experience of either bikes or electrics/electronics and with a time constraint.
It'll get finished though I'm confident of that now - I may have to step back and accept my limitations in the circumstances in order to get the outcome I'm hoping for and allow myself to prevail on others in a way I've never done before.... and I'm absolutely fine with that. Am just unbelievably lucky to have people who are so selfless and giving offering their help in ways far beyond what I would ever have expected ... or I have come to expect in today's society. It is more than refreshing, it's positively heart-warming.
Guess you can't wave a magic wand and acquire the skills and wisdom of years of experience in 3 weeks in your spare time on your own by remote learning. As I've limited time and funds to make my mistakes with and experiment with I have to keep in mind the purpose of the build - to get a nice suitable bike built for a specific purpose with such niceties as all the funds, facilities and circumstances allow.... within an allocated build window ... and learn as much as I reasonably can in that time.
Already learned WAY more than I ever planned on so on this bike I'm already in the credit on that front. Now just need to get the thing finished and working reliably - and learn to "let go" if necessary for a positive outcome.
There are going to be some trade-offs, to keep me sane and achieve the end goal. Not least of which is keeping at it all myself until it's finished for full emotional "ownership" of the final outcome. But in the end it's a bike and it's needed urgently... at this stage that's far more important than standing on pride or principles.
It's going to be a lovely one I'm certain - and having learned what I've learned I'd be much more confident if I take on another one (which I'd be tempted to do at a later date if funds permit, once my basic mobility needs are catered for). That's in terms of understanding the opportunities and limitations as far as donor bikes are concerned and also what matters to me and what, in the end, doesn't.
My aim hasn't been to prove anything to myself or others so I'm very relaxed about getting a hands-on helping hand rather than a remote one - just astonished at how generous and gracious other people are being. Having been surrounded by people managing deficits (usually time !) for many years now, it takes quite some getting used to.
I'm keeping the faith. One way or another it's going to get sorted.
That'll be a huge relief both to me and to those around me. No probs - working for yourself and from home means sometimes you can easily appear to be retired so it's completely understandable !Sorry Alex it's so easy to forget that we are not all retired.
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Right - looking forward to meeting d8veh later this morning . Be really great to get an experienced eye take a look at all the bike, all the stuff I've got in to finish this build and what I've done so far.
Going to do some more tests on the motor Halls etc. with d8veh and make sure no shorting to the frame etc. Am really hoping they're OK as it'll give us more time to do other stuff but time will tell.
In the meantime, I've used automotive sealant to bond the repaired wires onto the stator where everything else tried has failed miserably. Been curing for hours so we might even be able to reassemble the motor depending on what comes of the tests. Early indications on the sealant are really good - this stuff's proper heavy duty and good for high temperatures up to 260 degrees celcius. Works as an electrical insulator too.
It ain't pretty that's for sure - but I'm no "plastic surgeon", it isn't going to be seen .. and what matters is that the repair lasts the original life of the motor and doesn't lead to other problems.
The axle is screwed down onto the stator and doesn't usually need to be removed unless under exceptional circumstances for work to be carried out (which hopefuly can be avoided) so I can't see any reason why the plate can't in practice be used to seat wiring if needs be. The wires were all clamped for several hours into the sealant using an old plastic name badge to spread the tension to set in place - as they would not 'sit' in place without something compressing them down.
This is the side-on view now. The wires clearly all have sufficient clearance from the rotor which will spin above the level of the copper coils - they cannot be seen from this view as they are within the body of the stator.
The tiny area of black in the top right hand corner is one of the original groups of 3 wires still glued to the stator which feed down to the PCB.
Well, I've done what I can. Let's see what the day brings. Fingers crossed for some good luck after a bit of a run of bad eh ? But first a bit of kip.
. Be really great to get an experienced eye take a look at all the bike, all the stuff I've got in to finish this build and what I've done so far.Going to do some more tests on the motor Halls etc. with d8veh and make sure no shorting to the frame etc. Am really hoping they're OK as it'll give us more time to do other stuff but time will tell.
In the meantime, I've used automotive sealant to bond the repaired wires onto the stator where everything else tried has failed miserably. Been curing for hours so we might even be able to reassemble the motor depending on what comes of the tests. Early indications on the sealant are really good - this stuff's proper heavy duty and good for high temperatures up to 260 degrees celcius. Works as an electrical insulator too.
It ain't pretty that's for sure - but I'm no "plastic surgeon", it isn't going to be seen .. and what matters is that the repair lasts the original life of the motor and doesn't lead to other problems.
The axle is screwed down onto the stator and doesn't usually need to be removed unless under exceptional circumstances for work to be carried out (which hopefuly can be avoided) so I can't see any reason why the plate can't in practice be used to seat wiring if needs be. The wires were all clamped for several hours into the sealant using an old plastic name badge to spread the tension to set in place - as they would not 'sit' in place without something compressing them down.
This is the side-on view now. The wires clearly all have sufficient clearance from the rotor which will spin above the level of the copper coils - they cannot be seen from this view as they are within the body of the stator.
The tiny area of black in the top right hand corner is one of the original groups of 3 wires still glued to the stator which feed down to the PCB.
Well, I've done what I can. Let's see what the day brings. Fingers crossed for some good luck after a bit of a run of bad eh ?
But first a bit of kip.
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Great day - have posted up on here instead - as it seemed a more appropriate thread to pick back up again :
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/13813-cst-its-all-working-5.html
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/13813-cst-its-all-working-5.html
Most beer money gauges, come with a 2 wire sensor. You could chop the end off your chosen gauge, and solder that in there. Just using the white wire and ground to get your signal out. Either way round with the wires, it's an isolated circuit if your gauge has it's own battery.Temperature sensor turned up. It's tiny ! ?
What's involved in installing that ?
£2 prospect here, but the bead is close to 20mm long.
LCD Digital Aquarium Vivarium Terrarium thermometer | eBay
70c maximum read. If you can get that bead snug in there, you can fix it with varnish.
You would connect to black and white.
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I'm not really sure what I would do with device you have. If you want to mount it then it will need it's legs crossing. The insulation trimmed from a bit of flex can make a nice tubular sleeve.
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First I used my thermal glue (not paste) to stick it, but that is unimportant, it will stay put once soldered in. The first connection I made was the bottom leg. I sleeved it with a bit of brown insulation from on old flex before soldering it in place. Then I moved up to the middle leg, which I insulated using some blue. Then the third connection I insulated with green.
Then sat back, and wondered why I didn't use the blue insulation on the neutral, and the green on signal. Shortly before waking up.
You could dream up something similar perhaps
D
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The cable comes out of a slot in the side of the axle, not the end, so providing that it's installed properly with the supplied rubber cap to keep it in place, there should be no need for anything else.
Alex's one broke because the motor wasn't bolted in, so span out. No protection would've helped except maybe a torque arm.
Many OEM bikes use a "U" bracket over the end of the cable for additional protection. I think Ezee supply one with their kits:
Ezee Forza (Chile) | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Alex's one broke because the motor wasn't bolted in, so span out. No protection would've helped except maybe a torque arm.
Many OEM bikes use a "U" bracket over the end of the cable for additional protection. I think Ezee supply one with their kits:
Ezee Forza (Chile) | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
This is just what I need. My own cable is showing a bit of wear as the result of several scrapes along the ground just at the point it comes out of the axle. I keep binding it with self-amalg rubber to protect it, but this fitment would be great. Any idea what it is officially called and where I could buy one?
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