Advice please.... Pro Rider E-Wayfarer controller.

Hi and thanks to anyone who could help with some advice....

I have a Pro Rider E-Wayfarer of a few years ago with a much needed twist and go throttle. I’ve somehow managed to get water into the speed controller unit and I just noticed that it getting quite corroded inside, so i think at sometime in the not to distant future it’s going give me problems.

 

So I’ve started googleing the part number but cannot find anything on a Ananda 3615DLN-10Y0 Controller, so I wonder if anyone else has any knowledge about how to get hold of one of these, or if there is any other type I could change it with?

I know it’s a big ask so I would be eternally grateful if any woul be kind enough to share any knowledge they have on this.

Just in case it helps, It’s a 36v 10amp hour battery with twist and go for my old worn out knees.

Ananda are OEM only, I have never seen one for sale and they are like hens teeth.

 

This one on ebay is a speed controller and Ananda but not quite the same model though it is 3615 or36v 15a so the same voltage and ampage, if the wire connectors are the same then might be worth a punt.

The wattage of your motor ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Thompson-Euro-Classic-2-Motor-Control-Unit-Ananda-3615DLC-64AF1-Electric-Bike-/202202886970

Thanks Nealth, will take a look. The wattage is the standard 250. The only thing I’ve changed is fitting a bigger crank as the one that came with it was way too small, and a 20ah battery. (The photo I included was an old one.)

If it helps I just took a look as to where the wires go....

3 thick wires and 5 thin go to the motor.

2 thick to the battery.

3 thin go to the lights.

5 thin go to the controller on the handle bars.

2 for the back brake.

2 for the front brake.

3 thin to the peddle/crank.

2 thin to the throttle.

 

Thats all I seem to have.

I’m not sure if their is anyone who can tell me the proper names for any of these as there seem to be different descriptions (hall etc) I’m im not sure what I’m looking for.

I can solder, but it all gets a bit foggy with the terminology.

If it helps I just took a look as to where the wires go....

3 thick wires and 5 thin go to the motor.

2 thick to the battery.

3 thin go to the lights.

5 thin go to the controller on the handle bars.

2 for the back brake.

2 for the front brake.

3 thin to the peddle/crank.

2 thin to the throttle.

 

Thats all I seem to have.

I’m not sure if their is anyone who can tell me the proper names for any of these as there seem to be different descriptions (hall etc) I’m im not sure what I’m looking for.

I can solder, but it all gets a bit foggy with the terminology.

 

3 thick are motor Phase wires & 5 thin are motor Hall wires.

2 thick to battery = battery supply wires.

3 thin to lights are just that.

5 thin to handle bar are digital display wires for led or lcd not controller.

Brake wires are for Reed switch a simple on/off sensing switch.

3 thin to pedal/crank is for PAS using Hall sensor.

2 to throttle is a bit weird most use at least three wires for Hall sensor unless yours use a Reed switch so either on or off.

 

Double check the lights and throttle wiring are they correct, lights should only need 2 and throttle 3 wires.

 

The Ananda I linked to won't suit your bike.

Edited May 6, 20205 yr by Nealh

You will probably have to get a 36v 15a Lishui controller and lcd or a KT controller and LCD, finding an Ananda will be very difficult.

A 14a Lishui controller with lcd's or 22a with lcd's.

The only difference is brakes 3 wires & throttle std 3 wires.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000926754587.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.69042e0epbp3jK

 

The only issue you might have is throttle and brake compatibility, you would simply have to buy new brake levers and a throttle which for both aren't vey expensive.

Edited May 6, 20205 yr by Nealh

Thank you so much for your time and knowledge, and the link to the controllers.

Do you know if any of those on that page would work as I like the idea of having a more informative display.

Also if these would still give me the ‘twist and go‘ or would I lose that. I only ask because of a knee injury pedalling is really restricted.

Thanks you so much again.

Sorry, just noticed you said 14a or 22a...........

The 14a model will be fine though if you wanted a bit more power the 22a will be ok if your battery can output 22a continuous, both support throttle use.

If you scroll down the screen on the AliEx link the info which the displays/LCD's show are listed, the listed info is quite comprehensive on all but the first cheaper one.

 

If you want slightly more amps then 14 but not the 22, KT do 17a controllers as well as 15a.

I forgot to mention with KT controllers you can use 2 pin brake levers you simply don't connect to the 5v pin out.

For twist and go throttle you will need to buy a new 3 pin model to be compatible.

Edited May 6, 20205 yr by Nealh

The 14a model will be fine though if you wanted a bit more power the 22a will be ok if your battery can output 22a continuous, both support throttle use.

If you scroll down the screen on the AliEx link the info which the displays/LCD's show are listed, the listed info is quite comprehensive on all but the first cheaper one.

 

If you want slightly more amps then 14 but not the 22, KT do 17a controllers as well as 15a.

I forgot to mention with KT controllers you can use 2 pin brake levers you simply don't connect to the 5v pin out.

For twist and go throttle you will need to buy a new 3 pin model to be compatible.

 

Thanks again, I will take a look today.

I took another look at the throttle wire and it definitely is three wires, please see photo(1).

 

Also there is a photo(2) showing the three wires for the lights. It’s a bit of a mess, sorry, but it shows three from the controller, then dividing into 2 for the back, 2 from the front, and 2 to the switch on the handle bars.

 

I think before I buy the controller that you suggest I’ll have to have a steep learning curve as to the different wires that go to the motor. Every thing else I may be able to work out, but that looks a nightmare, and a fire in the making. (Photo 3) 6 thin and 3 thick wires.

 

Thanks again

The throttle is sorted then you can use any controller with throttle out put, Red/5v, Black/Gnd and White signal/Hall wire.

The brake should be ok to sort out and the lights shouldn't be a problem now as you have mentioned a switch is utilised., my 700c commute/town bike has a handle bar light switch and front/rear lights connected and is similar.

So what I can see is each light uses a separate Gnd/Black from the controller and the Red/voltage in to a single connector splitting the V's three ways. The Blue switch wire utilising the same power feed.

Edited May 7, 20205 yr by Nealh

The throttle is sorted then you can use any controller with throttle out put, Red/5v, Black/Gnd and White signal/Hall wire.

The brake should be ok to sort out and the lights shouldn't be a problem now as you have mentioned a switch is utilised., my 700c commute/town bike has a handle bar light switch and front/rear lights connected and is similar.

So what I can see is each light uses a separate Gnd/Black from the controller and the Red/voltage in to a single connector splitting the V's three ways. The Blue switch wire utilising the same power feed.

 

Yes now you've explained it it makes sense, I think I can understand.

Sorry about not explaining about the switch.

 

Thanks again for all your time and help, I really appreciate it.

Seeing as your help has been much appreciated I need to know if there is any feedback on this forum or some other way that I could at least reimburse you for your time. It just seems so wrong to be ’on the take’ at no cost to me.

You will have to let me know if you have a business that I can in the future purchase something of you.

I do really appreciate your time and effort, thanks.

Yes now you've explained it it makes sense, I think I can understand.

Sorry about not explaining about the switch.

 

Thanks again for all your time and help, I really appreciate it.

Seeing as your help has been much appreciated I need to know if there is any feedback on this forum or some other way that I could at least reimburse you for your time. It just seems so wrong to be ’on the take’ at no cost to me.

You will have to let me know if you have a business that I can in the future purchase something of you.

I do really appreciate your time and effort, thanks.

Sorry as Columbo said "one more thing’..........

The three wires on the AliExpress controller for the brakes........as you mentioned I have only two so I will need to change the break handles. I’ve been looking around eBay but I can only find 2 wires like mine.

Is there any terminology that I can use in searching so I can find some with three?

Thanks again for all your time and help, I really appreciate it.

Seeing as your help has been much appreciated I need to know if there is any feedback on this forum or some other way that I could at least reimburse you for your time. It just seems so wrong to be ’on the take’ at no cost to me.

You will have to let me know if you have a business that I can in the future purchase something of you.

I do really appreciate your time and effort, thanks.

 

The forum is free service for non trade members, we give info & help willingly and freely as at some stage we all ask for help of some kind.

The forum is free service for non trade members, we give info & help willingly and freely as at some stage we all ask for help of some kind.

Then please be assured of my gratitude.

If you need to buy a pair buy the sm3 pin Wuxing brand from Aliexpress, they are massive and much better then Ebay never had an issue using Aliexp.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33007777981.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6eef3b3cCcmR32&algo_pvid=6dae42ec-c208-464f-a74a-5497a2ef35e8&algo_expid=6dae42ec-c208-464f-a74a-5497a2ef35e8-1&btsid=0ab50f0815888676258306936eb32f&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

 

Your existing brakes might work with the controller by not connecting to the Red/voltage connector by using just the Gnd & signal wires.

If you need to buy a pair buy the sm3 pin Wuxing brand from Aliexpress, they are massive and much better then Ebay never had an issue using Aliexp.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33007777981.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6eef3b3cCcmR32&algo_pvid=6dae42ec-c208-464f-a74a-5497a2ef35e8&algo_expid=6dae42ec-c208-464f-a74a-5497a2ef35e8-1&btsid=0ab50f0815888676258306936eb32f&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

 

Your existing brakes might work with the controller by not connecting to the Red/voltage connector by using just the Gnd & signal wires.

Great, that sounds doable, I’m going to put in an order in the next few days after working out which one to get, and it probably will take some time to come.

I have to ask, and say no if you prefer I’ll understand, but if I get stuck during fitting can I message you here for any advice?

Thanks again

Great, that sounds doable, I’m going to put in an order in the next few days after working out which one to get, and it probably will take some time to come.

I have to ask, and say no if you prefer I’ll understand, but if I get stuck during fitting can I message you here for any advice?

Thanks again

Of course you can.

About 13/14 days I find so not to bad.

Sorry as Columbo said "one more thing’..........

Is there any terminology that I can use in searching so I can find some with three?

 

Try hall sensor ebike brake levers or 3 wire ebike brake levers.

The ones with the Yellow julet connectors will work, either chop off the Julet end and wire/shrink direct or buy short tale Julet female connectors wire /shrink them direct to the controller brake lines and simply plug the brakes in.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000269770281.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.8.c2a3391291RQVc

 

With Julet's there are two round types the short connector 1st generation or the slightly longer type 2nd generation connector.

Edited May 7, 20205 yr by Nealh

About 13/14 days I find so not to bad.

 

Thanks for that, I promise not to bug you too much when it does come.

 

Just to let you know I have ordered a 36v 22A Basic controller + KD716 Display.

Im going to try your idea about using my existing brake handles for now and see if it works before going ahead and buying the other ones you suggested.

Thanks again.

I did mention in #10 that 22a will be ok if your battery cab support 22a discharge, did you check your battery max continuous current out put.

I did mention in #10 that 22a will be ok if your battery cab support 22a discharge, did you check your battery max continuous current out put.

 

Thanks, It is described as ‘ GC® E-BIKE Battery 36V 23.8Ah 857Wh Silverfish with Panasonic Original Cells’.

 

https://greencell.global/en/for-electric-bicycles/2281-accumulator-battery-green-cell-silverfish-36v-23-8ah-857wh-for-electric-bike-e-bike-pedelec.html

 

Being a newbie at this I had thought, maybe wrongly, that the 250 watt motor would govern the maximum output. (So about 7 amps?) Am I wrong?

I choose this battery because of its 23ah rating which helps with the hills and long country roads I have in north Wales, over the 10ah battery that came with the ebike.

 

I hadn’t thought about power output or even speed for that matter.

 

Would the controller somehow make the bike illegal to use on the road as I can’t seem to find any details of it online?

As long as the hub is 250w then it is legal, ideally should be marked.

For testing/certifying then about 7a is what is used for the 250w nominal rating. The 250w rating being governed by copper windings used inside, a hub rated with a higher nominal wattage would over heat through inefficiency and thus fail. The hub can output more watts temporarily, with the 22a controller you will get about 630w in max assist mode. You will be riding like Geraint up those hills.

The controller there are no reg's saying what or how many amps.

 

It depends on which Panasonic cells it is using all I can say is it is 7 cells in parallel for 23.8ah so 3400mah cells, apart from the capacity rating there are no other specs on the cells and there rating for discharge. With 7 cells in parallel 22a supply if needed should be an issue.

Edited May 9, 20205 yr by Nealh