40 mile round trip commute - 20mph - help please :)

[R0881E]

Do you have the PAS plugged in? Sometimes the controller wants everything plugged in.

Being a noob I could well be missing something obvious.
However yes, I have tried both the pas and the thumb throttle in the orange connectors (there is one directly to be battery and another coming from the a larger connector that I also plugged into the battery.
I hope the controller is indeed installed inside the battery as promised

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The LCD works independently from the controller, so you don't need anything plugged in to make it work. If it flashed one time, it's because it has no battery supply and it took power from the controller's capacitor. If it flashes every time you switch it on, there's a problem with the cable or the battery.

Did you switch the battery on with the red switch?

Whatever you do, don't fire up the motor without it being clamped in the drop-outs or else you'll be looking for a new one!

I told you about the battery fixings in post #50. You'll now have to install your own 5mm rivnuts, which you can get from Ebay. Choose ones with a large flange.

 

[R0881E]

The LCD works independently from the controller, so you don't need anything plugged in to make it work. If it flashed one time, it's because it has no battery supply and it took power from the controller's capacitor. If it flashes every time you switch it on, there's a problem with the cable or the battery.

Did you switch the battery on with the red switch?

Whatever you do, don't fire up the motor without it being clamped in the drop-outs or else you'll be looking for a new one!

I told you about the battery fixings in post #50. You'll now have to install your own 5mm rivnuts, which you can get from Ebay. Choose ones with a large flange.

Thanks.

It literally doesn't turn on at all now.
The battery is locked in the cradle but from what I can tell it doesn't click in, but is just held there by turning the key? It obviously needs a good connection to the cradle since this is where the cables connect.
I then plug in the cable harness to the battery cradle and the green plug into the lcd. I don't see how I can get it wrong.
But nothing happens at all. I tried adding the thumb switch and motor and pa's but still nothing.
I will ask bmsbattery today.

 

[R0881E]

PS the red button is on (it was on when it arrived but has 3 out of 4 green lights if I hit the tiny button on the battery to check).

 

[jarob10]

48v 14.5ah Panasonic battery which BMSBattery will include the controller in for me This should make it neat and free up space for carrying other things I will wrap the battery white to blend in better with my bike.

https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-battery/819-48v116ah-case-08-bottle-panasonic-battery-pack-battery.html#/27-ac_voltage-200264vac
https://bmsbattery.com/controller/698-sine-wave-controller-for-09-case-controller.html#/voltage-48v/color-black

Any chance of a picture showing *how* they squeezed the controller into battery space?

 

[R0881E]

Any chance of a picture showing *how* they squeezed the controller into battery space?

On the way to work at the mo but will do this once I have spoken to BMSB

 

[Deleted member 4366]

When things go wrong, you have to measure with instruments to find out what's wrong. That isn't easy when you have the moulded connectors, which Is why I prefer the normal connectors and aluminium box connectors, like I said earlier in the thread. I have matching connectors from scrap systems, so its easy for me to measure what's on the wires. before I had those, I used to use sewing needles in the holes.

My guess is that you don't have battery voltage in the LCDs connector for whatever reason. You can easily test the battery when it's off its receiver, so that's the first thing to check, then you need to get a medium sized sewing needle and stick it in one of the holes in the LCD connector. Set your meter to continuity and put one probe on the controller's negative battery connector, then try each hole to see which one is the ground. Repeat to find the battery voltage hole with your other probe on the positive battery terminal. Now you know those two pins, so connect the battery and switch it on, then use two needles to check what's on those two pins. The needles need to be fat enough to make contact in the holes.

 

[R0881E]

When things go wrong, you have to measure with instruments to find out what's wrong. That isn't easy when you have the moulded connectors, which Is why I prefer the normal connectors and aluminium box connectors, like I said earlier in the thread. I have matching connectors from scrap systems, so its easy for me to measure what's on the wires. before I had those, I used to use sewing needles in the holes.

My guess is that you don't have battery voltage in the LCDs connector for whatever reason. You can easily test the battery when it's off its receiver, so that's the first thing to check, then you need to get a medium sized sewing needle and stick it in one of the holes in the LCD connector. Set your meter to continuity and put one probe on the controller's negative battery connector, then try each hole to see which one is the ground. Repeat to find the battery voltage hole with your other probe on the positive battery terminal. Now you know those two pins, so connect the battery and switch it on, then use two needles to check what's on those two pins. The needles need to be fat enough to make contact in the holes.

Thank you, I will give that a go this evening. In the middle of my reply to BMSB at the moment to cover myself

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I found this sketch of a similar harness that I made for reference. I uploaded to Photobucket, but can't make a link there anymore, so I downloaded it, but they downgrade the quality when you download it, so I hope you can read it. The top section is the cable and the bit at the bottom is the cable that comes out of the controller. It is a KT cable so most likely will be the same as yours.
:

 

[R0881E]

I found this sketch of a similar harness that I made for reference. I uploaded to Photobucket, but can't make a link there anymore, so I downloaded it, but they downgrade the quality when you download it, so I hope you can read it. The top section is the cable and the bit at the bottom is the cable that comes out of the controller. It is a KT cable so most likely will be the same as yours.
:

View attachment 22214

Thank you , that should be really helpful. I am a noob at this stuff too but willing to give it a go and learn That will definitely get me on the right track, you are too helpful

ps; Like you say, the likely issue is that the LCD is not receiving power at all.

 

[R0881E]

I haven't got a multimeter yet as the wife has the car, the Scooter engine blew up and I took the bus to work.
However I have found that I usually (not always) can get a flicker of power if I remove and replace the battery before pushing the power button on the lcd..

 

[R0881E]

I have found the problem but I don't know why it is there or how to solve it.
It works if I turn it upside down and push hard on the cradle. I have to push hard because it is not connecting properly..
You wouldn't think it would make a difference but it does.
One side fits flush but the other doesn't.

 

[R0881E]

Scrap that...

It definitely works sometimes if I turn it upside down and slide the battery mount to the battery and keep strong pressure on it.


I know when it going to work because I hear a small click type noise as the battery connects to its mount (this seems more like an electrical noise) . If I then press the LCD it lights up, but it will turn off as soon as I stop pressing on the battery / mount .

I wonder if something is loose either inside the battery mount or the battery itself.

 

[harrys]

I haven't seen a case 08 battery, but would expect a pair of prongs on the battery. Maybe you can just bend them for better contact when the battery slides in?

 

[R0881E]

I haven't seen a case 08 battery, but would expect a pair of prongs on the battery. Maybe you can just bend them for better contact when the battery slides in?

I have been taking the mounting apart anyway as it was just 3 screws and even then it was an effort to connect it.
When it did connect I saw a spark (hence the clicking I heard earlier).
I found that 2 prongs on the battery side were really recessed . I was in the middle of trying to find a tiny screwdriver to move them when your post notification came through
So I have pushed them back in and it is all working. Slightly concerning that it may happen again halfway on a long journey but fingers crossed

Thanks

 

[anotherkiwi]

Bad assembly. Have you no way of insuring they don't move again?

Short story: I was charging my batteries the other day when one of the two outlets on the power supply failed. I took it appart and scratched my head, both outlets were fed by the same wire. Then I noticed a loose nut on one positive socket! I had been charging for months without a problem before the false contact, the nut hadn't been tightened down properly in the factory...

 

[Nealh]

The contacts/prongs in the receiver once inserted/located correctly need securing try sugru/ epoxy putty or hot glue or a similar product.

 

[R0881E]

Thanks guys,

I will pick some up at the weekend

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The aluminium mounting reinforcer is not fixed in place until you screw the receiver to the frame. Until then, it can slide up and down - all the way to the prongs, which prevents the prongs from engaging. Push it up out of the way before clipping in the battery when it's not mounted on the bike.

 

[R0881E]

The aluminium mounting reinforcer is not fixed in place until you screw the receiver to the frame. Until then, it can slide up and down - all the way to the prongs, which prevents the prongs from engaging. Push it up out of the way before clipping in the battery when it's not mounted on the bike.

I was aware of that and kept it out the way but it is a valid point as always.