40 mile round trip commute - 20mph - help please :)

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I used to do 30 miles a day on an MTB. I weighed 100kg and it wasn't particularly flat. Travelling at 20 mph, I would use about 290wh on the way there (net downhill) and about 430 on the way back, which is 720. A much lighter rider on a hybrid type bike pedalling steadily, should therefore be able to do it with about 500wh. 40 miles would be about 670wh, and you need a bit of headroom for windy days so I think that means about 17Ah should be enough.

Travelling at 14 mph average, I could get there on about 36wh and return on about 140wh. You can see that speed makes a big difference to battery consumption. If your battery turns out not to have enough capacity for your journey, you can always slow down a bit. 19 mph could probably be done comfortably with a 14Ah battery and 18mph with a 12Ah one. A light bike can always be pedalled easily without power, but it becomes a lot harder with the extra weight of a 48v 17Ah battery.
 
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R0881E

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Sep 11, 2017
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The capacity is more complicated than the number written on the cells because with the lower powered cells, the capacity goes down as the power goes up. If you look at the actual discharge curves on any of the 18650 test websites, you can see the graphs, so have a look at the actual capacity on the 5A and 10A graphs.

The Mighty mini will be too small for what you need. We got about 10 miles out of one averaging 20 mph using a Bafang BBSHD, and it got pretty warm, which is not good for a battery. That was with token pedalling.

Eclipse Bikes have nice batteries in the UK.

You can buy the BMSB integrated 20A sine-wave controller separately (as a kit with LCD, PAS, etc.). Remove the battery connector, blank off the hole and mount it wherever you want with whatever battery you want. When you buy it integrated in the battery, all the wires are too long, so you have to find a way to lose the extra, which spoils the nearness unles you cut and solder them.
Sorry d8veh,

To clarify, I know that you were previously delighted with your setup and suggested that the PSWPower SineWave would do a great job.

However,you suggested that I could buy the SineWave designed the bottle battery https://bmsbattery.com/controller/698-sine-wave-controller-for-09-case-controller.html#/43-voltage-48v/137-color-black . This appears a lot smaller but will it perform just as well? If so, then surely it would always be a better option than the PSWPower variant which seems substantially bigger?

If this Bottle Sinewave is suitable then I can indeed buy the Q128C at the same time together with a battery (probably from EM3EV) and hopefully tuck it all away in a medium size triangle bag :) (unless I missed something).
 
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The box controller probably has better cooling. They have identical components in each type. The box one has them on a single deck and the battery one is a double decker. I'm sure that both will be fine.
 
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R0881E

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This thread may never end (I haven't even purchased it yet, never mind try to put it together).

Is the BMSBattery wheel build ok now? I read a few threads and it seems like it could be?
They are chaging $210 USD to ship to Australia as a built wheel (about $30 more than to ship to the UK) versus $64 for just the motor.

Should I pocket $150 USD (£114) and then get the wheel built here? That would allow my own spec but it could potentially be slower than letting BMS build it and send it. I am assuming the overall cost would be similar?

I would send it to the LBS here since I don't know what I am doing and the rest of the ebike build will already stress me out a bit no doubt :)

Thanks in advance for any opinions.
 

Woosh

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I would recommend you get the wheel built locally.
 
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You can specify 14g spokes, which are better, if you do it yourself.
 
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R0881E

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Sep 11, 2017
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Yet another question (as expected), sorry.

I was all set to go for the small triangle pack when it occurred to me that this may result in my knees hitting the bag.
I would say that I am a bit bow legged and my knees tend to come fairly close to the frame when I pedal.
Has anybody found frame packs to be annoying? This would sway me to the bottle style battery but unfortunately that tends to knock the capacity unless you go for a very overt killer whale style case.

Thanks again :)
 

R0881E

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Sep 11, 2017
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It is about the same size width as my water bottle. Theoretically it shouldn't really get in the way as my knee comes down but it wouldn't surprise me if I am rubbing it (potentially my technique would change).

I will make a mock piece from cardboard and see how these dimensions affect me :)
 

R0881E

Pedelecer
Sep 11, 2017
60
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Ok, I hit a snag.
I just realised that a triangle battery would not be secure on my bike and I don't want to have to lug it off the bike at work , so I had a change of plan.

48v 14.5ah Panasonic battery which BMSBattery will include the controller in for me :) This should make it neat and free up space for carrying other things :) I will wrap the battery white to blend in better with my bike.

https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-battery/819-48v116ah-case-08-bottle-panasonic-battery-pack-battery.html#/27-ac_voltage-200264vac
https://bmsbattery.com/controller/698-sine-wave-controller-for-09-case-controller.html#/voltage-48v/color-black

Add the Q128C to the mix and the whole order will come from BMSB.

If helped, I would love to avoid removing the cranks and the BB even more so.

Does anybody suggest a PAS sensor that is compatible?

I saw this one but read that it had issues (in a 2 year old post).
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/705-dual-hall-sensor-12-signals-easy-assembling-pas-ebike-kit.html?search_query=pas&results=67

There is also this one..
https://bmsbattery.com/home/837-dual-hall-sensor-d12-signals-easy-installation-pas.html?search_query=pas&results=67

Also, can anybody advise anything else that is worth throwing into the order since the delivery charge is sorted and the parts are cheap :)

Again, thanks. And please let me know if this is a bad change of direction :)
 
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Just some info about those batteries. The fixings are at the top end, so if your bottle cage screws are low down the crossbar, you'll have to install two or three rivnuts in the frame. Even if they're in the right place, it's advisable to fit an extra one because that's a lot of weight for two 5mm screws to hold.

Taking the cranks and BB off is a non-issue. you can buy both tools for a fiver the pair and it only takes about 10 mins from start to get the BB out. The PAS that fits in the BB spline requires you to take the left crank off anyway. get a normal sensor and the one that goes in the BB. They don't cost much and if one doesn't work, you can use the other.
 
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R0881E

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Sep 11, 2017
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Just some info about those batteries. The fixings are at the top end, so if your bottle cage screws are low down the crossbar, you'll have to install two or three rivnuts in the frame. Even if they're in the right place, it's advisable to fit an extra one because that's a lot of weight for two 5mm screws to hold.

Taking the cranks and BB off is a non-issue. you can buy both tools for a fiver the pair and it only takes about 10 mins from start to get the BB out. The PAS that fits in the BB spline requires you to take the left crank off anyway. get a normal sensor and the one that goes in the BB. They don't cost much and if one doesn't work, you can use the other.
Thanks, the other pas that I linked just requires snapping in place. What did you mean by "get a normal sensor"?

Ps: I was trying to avoid opening it up because I installed the crank on my mtb and now it makes a funny noise and I haven't been able to adjust it properly (that is how bad I am).

Thanks
 

R0881E

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Sep 11, 2017
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Everything arrived today and I have just come home from work :)

Is it supposed to like this? I guess it is but it took a battering against the edge of the box and the cable was pushed back and the sticky glue is very exposed.

Thanks
 

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anotherkiwi

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Everything arrived today and I have just come home from work :)

Is it supposed to like this? I guess it is but it took a battering against the edge of the box and the cable was pushed back and the sticky glue is very exposed.

Thanks
Yes It looks like that you bend the wire down into that slot.
 
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Nealh

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Everything arrived today and I have just come home from work :)

Is it supposed to like this? I guess it is but it took a battering against the edge of the box and the cable was pushed back and the sticky glue is very exposed.

Thanks
Cable entry/exit looks ok to me, the wired binding is for protection against the metal entry/exit so just allows for bending to form a drip loop on fitting.
A mahoosive sticky label compared to my tiny one which was affixed, also noted the 250w rating on it. Did you ask for this ?
 

R0881E

Pedelecer
Sep 11, 2017
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Cable entry/exit looks ok to me, the wired binding is for protection against the metal entry/exit so just allows for bending to form a drip loop on fitting.
A mahoosive sticky label compared to my tiny one which was affixed, also noted the 250w rating on it. Did you ask for this ?
Yes I asked for the label :)

I figured it to be prudent to see if I could get it working prior to installation but I cannot even get the lcd on (it triggered for a fraction of a second then off) but I dont think it is battery related since I can see 4 green bars and it charges my phone.. Any ideas?

Also, the battery won't align with my bottle holder mounts as they are too low :(
 

anotherkiwi

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Yes I asked for the label :)

I figured it to be prudent to see if I could get it working prior to installation but I cannot even get the lcd on (it triggered for a fraction of a second then off) but I dont think it is battery related since I can see 4 green bars and it charges my phone.. Any ideas?

Also, the battery won't align with my bottle holder mounts as they are too low :(
Welcome to the "I mounted a kit" club :)
 
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anotherkiwi

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Do you have the PAS plugged in? Sometimes the controller wants everything plugged in.