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I'm not saying you shouldn't get a crank drive,but for the sake of you making an objective,informed decision I should point out,as the owner of a 2.5 to 3 kW hub drive pedelec that everything trex said here is untrue.

Great stuff,good to know for ordinary mortals (myself very included) that doesn't want to,er,fork out £200 plus on a fork

I was wondering the same,Mr Henderson aside,you have a stonkingly good bike IMHO,a noisy disk brake simply means you have to align the caliper,a two minute job, my oxygen (same kit as on your bike) is very very robust

You can't not tell us more about this,there's clearly a lot more to this pedelec thing than I realised..

As an aside does anyone know whether filling the BPM with oil will do anything to make the clutch/gears last longer (aside from cooling it)? Or is there nothing one can do?

Fair enough,I've only done around 1000 miles,will listen for clutch,fingers crossed it won't happen

I don't mean to doubt any of that,but I have a BPM 500w in a Raleigh 20 that regularly runs at 2500 to 3000w with no problems - I deliberately give it more power to stop it labouring/overheating. I don't give it that much power from standing starts against steep hills,its also the 328rpm model...

For some reason any bicycle I have becomes unstable at 30 mph sustained (is not briefly downhill), I'm not sure why,its not as if the average moped has that much more stable geometry. I equally find constant 30mph too much like being on a moped without adequate protection.

many thanks, do they take a lot of plugging and unplugging and easily ( i guess occasional bouts of 45a may be OK)?

hobby king lipos (16Ah 22.2V to make 12S), but not in a rucksack (not that brave), but frequent charging and unplugging and the XT90 connectors are getting really dodgy and just not worth the risk), many thanks for advice - i gather they're good from what you say - but saw cheap ones on ebay...

as an aside is an anderson connector best for this - frequent quick connecting and disconnecting of 45 amp 36v batteries? or is there something better? many thanks for help

one final (slightly intoxicated, Friday evening) thought - i don't have much of an eye for alignment and got the rivnuts out of line on my hydroformed frametube - now my battery is angled to one side by about 20%. it doesn't look good at all, but everything is still stuck tight after many fast...

i attached my oxygen lcd with an exhaust clamp - i discovered exhaust clamps are strangely brittle and don't like being bent or vibrated too much (it snaps), however, i then bravely/foolishly nonetheless enlarged one of the serrations on the clamps that it screws on and put a small flat-head...

i can sympathise with wanting to go 30 mph, in the real world 20 to 25 mph gets one there almost as quick and is a great deal more manageable, safe and relaxing

many thanks, I think BSA used standard one inch quill stemmed forks like Raleigh, but will need to double check, will keep a lookout for old trek MB forks, somehow the idea of a spinning front wheel got me going..

it made me chuckle too, it does ring true, and for a moment I thought we've found Clarkson's replacement, in a lefty liberal, but nonetheless unconforming way..

thanks, good idea, will blend more aesthetically, I want to over amp a hub motor (perhaps up to 900W), should I go for something like an old mountainbike fork, or are all old steel forks equal?

many thanks, it is steel, but 60 year old somewhat rusty structurally dodgy steel. is there a specific kind of cheap suspension fork the chinese use for front wheel drives or can i just whack any old bottom of the range disk drive equiped job on?

i sortof agree, but i always felt ambivalent about Clarkson - while fundamentally disliking his views, there's part of me (and i suspect a lot of citizens) that feel like sheep anyway, herded by corrupt politicians making what must be the most disingenuous noises ever made on earth for, and...

different windings/speed