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Plugs and fuses was part of an earlier post. I don’t think you can buy anything in the UK with a 13A plug on it, that doesn't have a plug fuse - it might be hidden maybe? Controversially, the plug fuse is there mainly to protect the infrastructure wiring of the house, not the device you are...

Sounds like the charger is ok. So when you plug the battery pack in, it’s still drawing current from the charger, so the BMS still thinks there’s some charging to do - even when you measure the battery at over 42v. Faulty BMS maybe? sorry - just noticed you’ve said you got a green light by...

Test the green light function by powering up the charger without plugging it into the battery. The light should be green when there’s no load on the charger.

Not impressed with the Famex website - not a manual in sight anywhere. How can they sell stuff and not have documentation online? Maybe someone on here has a manual for you.

Is this any use? It was on facebook.

I can’t believe that the battery pack would give anywhere near enough amps to max it out.

Interesting about the TP4056. I shall have a look at the ample documentation for it with interest. I see that it’s max current is 1A. Most chargers I’ve seen are 2A. Is there a 2A equivalent device?

First point, is that when you DON’T plug the battery onto the charger, then the charger light will be green, so you have the correct behaviour there. If you measure at the charger output without the battery, do you get 42v - if you do, then the charger is functioning ok. If it struggles to get...

From one of my old posts: - The charge connections - which are the centre two (O and D) on the yellow plug - are EC2 connectors, but with the O and D positions reversed. You can make up a charger adapter by cutting the EC2 in half and hot gluing it together in the Swytch orientation.

Are you talking about the “OD” yellow two-pin charging plug (a photo would help)?

I look after a few bikes for myself and family. Most are Swytch-based, and all feature MBR3045 schottky diode isolation so that we can have an assortment of packs. The earlier post shows you how to wire them - and they are cheap to buy. Make sure you mount them properly on some sort of heatsink...

Switching batteries is fine, but my bike performs noticeably better when I have two batteries in parallel (with diode separation). The bike can draw more current from the batteries without the voltage slumping.

I use OS Maps for recording a ride (or walk) - it’s free and accurate.

Hi all. Someone is selling a Swytch battery mount converter on eBay. It’s not cheap, but some swytch owners might well prefer the simplicity of fitting it. You just clip it in where the battery pack normally goes, and then add your new battery somewhere else on the bike. I know that some here...

Hi. There’s very little knowledge remaining regatding swytch gen 1. I’ve attached a picture of a gen 1 controller and also a gen 2 controller. You can see the plug arrangement is very different.

Sorry - I’ve nothing to offer regarding swytch hub part numbers!

When I converted one of my bikes to a C500 display on a Lishui controller, I concluded that all C500 displays were not the same, and there were program differences depending on the source.

I made up an aluminium plate to mount mine on. It’s then tie wrapped to the down tube with some strong cable ties as well as the two standard water bottle screws.

A Saneagle suggestion that I found really useful for your remaining good batteries, is a power bank case (such as the link) that can be used for iPads/iPhones. Better than throwing them away...

Brilliant photo’s and method! Thanks for such a great “how to do”. It’ll help a lot of people in the future to fix these packs.