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You won’t be able to create enough torque to spin out the wheel with normal peddle power unless you are a Tour de France cyclist.

You need a round file to make the drop out diameter 14mm. The width is fine at 10mm, so you don’t want to mess with that or the motor will try and twist out when you apply torque. Once you start filing you are committed to using a 14mm axle in that frame.

Yes It looked like 14mm which is why it doesn’t fit well, so you will definitely have to gently fettle the frame to get it seated better if you are going to run at or above 2KW. Post some photos of where you intend to fit the torque arms and someone more knowledgeable than me will advise from...

Is it a 12mm x 10mm or 14mm x 10mm axle on your motor?

That’s a torque washer. Torque arms are different and at 2Kw it is highly advisable to put a torque arm on both sides. These are torque arms, There are several types. One piece torque arms are better, but you will have to make them yourself to fit. Two piece torque arms like these are readily...

This fella explains it very well.

Putting legalities to one side. You can fit a bigger controller with a matched display. But it depends if the motor can take the extra power without overheating. A KT48 controller will give you 1000 to 1500 watts with a considerable reduction in range. If the motor temperature gets too high...

A new switch unit for your display is around £20...

I tried the stick on magnetic switches with hydraulic brakes, but they are hopeless off road. The reed switch keeps closing and cutting the motor due to vibrations on the rough stuff. It all works perfectly on flat tarmac, but as soon as I start hitting some jumps they keep cutting the motor...

Sticking them in a tub of vinegar for a day or two works better. The acetic acid eats all of the rust away leaving them looking all shiney and new.

Yeah, a Stealth can cause a lot of damage in a kitchen on ghost throttle. For some peculiar reason, the Chinese seem very partial about using blue for +5v. But then again some do and some don’t. I think it depends upon what kind of a mood they are in when they are wiring on any particular day.

Fortunately you can’t do any damage to the hall sensor in the throttle or the controller if you get the wiring wrong. But your bike will take off at high speed if you put 5v onto the signal wire to the controller. I have seen surrons cause absolute mayhem when their throttles go wrong. My...

Freewheeling down the Wicklow gap will get you there easily. Getting to the top in the first place is another matter.

If I didn’t have my Greaser I would be very tempted to buy this. It’s a grand cheaper than a new one. The only thing putting me off is it’s a 750 model rather than a 250. But I’m pretty sure a 250 has the same motor as a 750...

As said previously, you probably have a few bad cells in your battery and it’s likely that a few more will go bad in due course. So you will get a reduction in range because your low voltage cut off will kick in and it will keep shutting you down. Eventually you will get fed up with it shutting...

You can still ride it, but it will continue to degrade until it’s dead. Then you will have to buy a new battery. Be careful on that thing.

I’m still trying to figure out if a Bafang SWX02 is rated at 250w, 350w, 500w or 750w. The only difference I can tell between the power ratings of the same motor is what part of the world it is sold in.

I watched a YouTube video yesterday that made me chuckle when the fella said that Chinese motor specifications are accurate to the nearest kilowatt. Many so called 250 watt motors are capable of running at 1500 watts if you are sensible with them and don’t let them overheat.

It’s a scooter. May get a better response if you post on a scooter forum.

Their B7 motor looks interesting for those who want a 750 watt rear hub motor and can stretch their drop out to 138mm. https://www.to7motor.cn/products/B7_Powerful_Hub_Motor_for_Mountain_E-bike/B7-138X