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Wasn't that bearing causing the noise, so tried a spare clutch plate but wasn't that either. This meant it must be from inside the actual centre motor part itself, think it's called the stator. This was not easy to seperate the part with the electronics&magnets from the outer spinning housing...

Andy, d8veh has put everything you need to know about rear gear adjustment in post #49

d8veh, I read your post several times to visualize in my head what you are saying then went to do it today and after undoing it all I sorted the gears easy and didn't need youtube. Many thanks

Ah, these have been sat in box in my garage for a couple of years. The tyre did have a twist in it when I got it out of the box so sounds like your both right with a fault and it being in a bead, but this leads me onto could I have caused it by storing it upright shoved in the big box it came in...

Might be, I am going to swap it with my other wheel later to try. I don't understand why the inner tube bulges near the valve though either. Any thoughts?

So I build a wheel with a cheap chinese rim and fit a new marathon plus tyre with new inner tube. Pumping it up to 50psi I get a tyre bulge near the valve. Q1 What causes this bulge ? So I re-fit it all and only pump up to about 40psi which is just when the bulge starts, but now I got the tyre...

And Continuing.... While the above motor was in bits I used my spare bafang CST (same type of motor) which was new and unused in my garage for a couple of years. After only about 500 miles or so I got a grinding-bearing type noise - only when power was applied. Today I opened that one and found...

Got any spare ones laid around? I can't seem to find a seller of this motor.

I wish I lived near you, I recently changed my entire drive/gear system of:- Rear gear cable, chain, front cogs, cassette, jockey wheels. And now I have to change down/up 2 or 3 speeds at a time to change a speed, then quickly change up/down the other way to get it to stay in that gear, or...

I am using a battery over 5kg's on a rear pannier rack and don't notice any handling problems. Just keep the battery tucked as far under the seat as you can get it.

Good find on the 4s 8000mah's , I may have an idea for a couple of those paralleled then serieled with my existing 6s's. If you pick up a 6s 10000mah pack now at £71 the 4s's occasionally drop to about £45, so you get a 37v 10aH battery for about £120 plus 2xdeliveries

6s 8000mah are at the moment for £49

Well if they get d8veh's approval then I'm getting a couple ordered quick before they sell out !!

Are BMS's any good at accurate full balancing? I mean, can one cell be low with all the rest high enough to switch the charger off? My old li-ion battery is becoming low on power around 37.5v so am guessing maybe one cell is lower and it all need a good balancing.

I got a couple of those 8000mah bad boys the other week when they were on sale too. It turns out 8000mah isn't enough for me though. Can you permanently parallel different mah packs? i.e a 6s8000mah with a 6s4000mah to make a 6s12000mah pack? I know you can do that to charge but how about...

The next 700c rim I am going to try is a Mavic A119 and the best price I've found :- http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mavic-a119-road-rim-2017/rp-prod140742

Yes, I've done thousands of miles on a Mavic A319 and it's always stayed true.

Same here and she keeps telling me off for the harsh braking on her info app.

I had the same problem when I first started ebiking, never touched the front brake atall for the same reasons you say, untill I learned off this forum about the front generally being the main brake when safe to do so. It takes a bit of getting used to but really enhances your braking when using...

Nice, I'm coming round to have a go with it.