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Does anyone have any further comments on the pros/cons of using a one piece custom TA versus the cheap 2 arm TAs with jubilee clip?

Yes holes are slightly oversized to allow fitting whilst still holding the axle firm, whilst I'm not the world's greatest 3D designer I have been doing this for few yrs now so am not a total numpty :) General consensus here was the two 5mm eyelets is the way to go rather then the cheapo 2 arm...

Final edit before it goes to CNC. Going for 4mm thickness, not sure 5mm would add anything.

Only a small number of bills every gain Royal Assent, most disappear somewhere along the way for various reasons.

Jesus, now you posting links to GB News, pls stop...

I have to say that was a very informative article, I now feel equipped to debate this issue with the background and insight this article gave me. Fck off... The useless cnt that wrote this rubbish couldn't even write or check 4 sentences without making a typo ('Partyu' as that's a...

I'm looking at that now, either a local metal shop where I can give them the .obj / .stl / .svg and they can CNC cut it or use an online metal shop service to CNC it. Or get them to trace around my template but that would be open to errors and last time I got something cut (2mm thick steel...

Thanks, when I've got the steel version I will have a play to find the optimum order on the axle that still allows the H and L set screws to move across all of the cassette. Tbh I don't use many rear gears, it's 7 speed and I tend to leave in either 3/4/5 use the front 3 gears to get some...

Looks like drive side will work too once I've removed the flange inside the derailleur dropout so it clears the screw. Already removed the flange on the outside with my new favourite toy, an angle grinder!

Making progress...

Thanks for replies. So have made a custom TA that's looking a lot like a halloween ghost, I'll take it given time of year... This is what it looks likes on the bike.

By mudguard fixing point you mean one of the two eyelets in first pic, or something else? Yes one short arm would be best, I will see how they all fit. Well I have one on way, keeping options open I suppose. I was hoping maybe two of these and with the axle now being fully in dropout...

Thanks! Was looking at rasps/files online (ones I have are small cheapos used for 3d prints), I noticed an angle grinder online for £14 and nearly jumped but by time added some discs price went right up and for £14 it's gonna be crap grinder... Splashed out £30 for one from Amazon that comes...

Having rejigged my rear hub setup and repositioned derailleur away from dropouts the rear hub axle now fits much snugger in end of dropouts. No more trips to local bike shop guy to get him to refit it I have been messing with putting on two torque arms (one each side) and had a few basic...

Here's another question, when you are riding the ebike and giving it some torque you might assume that both dropouts are under similar opposite forces with the axle trying to rotate it's way out? I have read in few posts recently that a torque arm is more important on drive side but I'm...

Well I had a go at this tonight with just a bottle of red wine for company...funny how as the bottle drains you get more 'confident'... The hub axle is now sat tight in the end of the dropouts, that has had a few minor side effects as the drive train is now probably 2cm longer and wheel sits...

The derailleur has a slight dimple at back of drop out: The frame also isn't flush either where the derailleur would sit: I might be able to get derailleur to sit straight if I use a small washer between frame and derailleur, won't know until I try however what would you recommend in this...

Thanks for the detailed response, the axle is 12x10 btw. So if I'm understanding you what I should be doing is removing the derailleur and bolt and the cut nut on other side. Then put in the hub/axle using the full dropout width (I like that idea!) Finally put the derailleur on tight against...

This is what the bikes looks like btw, found these pics eventually...cannot see any other way to configure derailleur.

Rear wheel was secure for a good few months before I had to get bearings and cassette replaced and bike guy didn't torque up enough, partly my fault for not doing usual check and also marking nuts with sharpie straight line to monitor torque. Dropout slop not as bad as it looks partly due to...