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I am not an expert in any regard to this matter, however while the 250w legal limit is a thing, but is also meaningless.. You can do your own in depth homework if necessary ;) But the basic schoolboy physics is Volts X Amps = Watts. So an ebike with a controller capable of delivering 15a...

Cheers, yes im aware, ive already blown up a few adds to triple check and count connecting interface pins a few times, and squint at the silkscreen print looking for a label match ha ;).. Im in more of 'if it aint broke .. ' frame of mind today ;) and am leaving the battery on the bench over...

Hi Brian and welcome on in It sounds like you have read the same 'articles' as i did about a year ago when i took the ebike plunge too. Mid drives gotta be the best option .. er... perhaps not.. As for a bafang 750w mid drive, really?? I would strongly urge you to remain within the regs...

Yeah if i can deal with the 1/2 hour or longer delay in restarting :) I was not a fast typist or photographer when prepping my first message of failure this evening.. Its sure not behaving according to my 'Janet and John' level of comprehension of what should be going on.. Any links to...

oh and output voltage is back??? wtf? I was just about to pick up mu mug and empty pop tins.. and the led meter flashed on..?? 39.5v now, result of my lil short?? And 39.4v between B10 and P- !! and shorting the sw solderpads has no impact on P-

Think i need a new bms..

What can i say the battery was working fine, until i plugged the repaired wire fed plug in, AND?? -No output voltage!!, attempts to test continuity between B- and P- with a meter resulted in the volt meter attached to the output register circa 18v until i broke the connection. all the +ve in...

hope the 2 pics attached show the pcb front and back ok.. I have tested for continuity between C-, P- , and B- there is none all 3 are isolated from each other. the wire attached to C- is attached to the charge socket via the output terminal, B- is attached to the last cell group. as is the...

I was out of my depth when i started on what i thought was a well laid out path.. Just understanding the steps to be taken I can pull the positive power plug and test continuity and simple things without power running through the board, but am way too kak handed to fumble over a live board...

The opening scene of the vid tells you exactly who its aimed at.. If the claims are true then the give has to be a 50% loss of something probably the torque to get you upto speed in the first place?

while hiding from my battery woes ;) this popped into my youtube feed and i wonder is it what many first time posters in here are searching for??

Thanks for the patience Saneagle, so the 'multi wire plug has 11 wires feeding in , a black wire, 9 x yellow wires and 1 x red wire, I made a guess that the red wire indicates the group of cells the bms draws power from???? and that it and the 9x yellow wires are the 10x sense wires??? so i...

still no joy ;( tried a couple of switches just in case the first was a dud.. the pcb is tiny and populated with micro components so unless i can break into a simple wire to fit a switch i may have dived a tad too deep here..

Great.. that is easy to test, brb...

cheers @saneagle crossed posts.. residual charge in capacitors works for me ;)

ok correction time, in an attempt to document the 36v output with no +ve voltage suppled to the bms, i pulled the plug with the led meter attached and it died instantly?? I have no clue? I swear i measured 36-37v on the battery output without the bms multiwire plugged in MORE THAN ONCE as it...

so the 2 x solder pads next to the sw label on the pcb have no effect on battery output voltage if connected to a latching switch or shorted.. I have validated the switch breaks and maintains continuity.. pictures attached with the button depressed and not, output voltage remains constant.. 1...

Opening this up was uncomfortable... Looks like a pair of convenient solder pads sat next to the 'SW' label on the pcb (bottom left side of pictured pcb) However i still balk at shorting those pads out and testing the battery output terminals.. ----hand holding required.. ignore what...

?? did your battery have a backlight and perhaps brake light fitted too? If so perhaps the 3 thin guage wires just supply the lighting voltage to the now gone lights? and just the battery connections are needed (thick red/black wires)

cheers i have some of that and some thinner 2"wide pvc tape but was concerned it may add too much 'girth' and cause issues re-clamping the lid to the base with its already damaged tongue and groove lips and one threaded screwhole.. worry averted cheers