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Capacity has absolutely nothing to do with it, age doesn't matter. The only thing that matters is voltage. As you say there is a BMS on each battery that will restrict the current but if the voltage difference is small then very little current will flow anyway. When the batteries are straight...

Removed battery mount, soldered wires, cut a small groove in the base to get the wire outside and fitted connector. I always switch bike on before connecting the second battery as the bike is not expecting power to be available on the main connectors until powered up, probably makes no...

Stick another battery on like in parallel like I have, double your range! Comes in even handier when you start climbing more like you are threatening to. Most importantly enjoy and make the most of your new found freedom, maybe you can come and ride the Alps too.

For contrast my most worn gears are third and fourth, shows how much time I spend going up silly long hills with an average ride over 1000m of climbing. As soon as I leave home virtually every road / track goes up.

If it is DC rated then yes, but I cant see how using an MCB fits with tidying up.

Don't know what you guys are doing with your brakes. Living in the Alps I regularly descend over 700m vertical sometimes over 1000m both on and off road and have never had a problem with either my normal or electric MTB.

Does the bike run? What happened immediately before this issue? Have you tried to measure any voltages? How long are you holding the power button?

Added free charge point near me in Austria.

X2 and maybe increase the weight or decrease pressure to get 60W

103 kM with about half battery left, 789m elevation gain. Yamaha Haibike with 400wh battery. This was when I decided I was not going to bring the bike back from Austria after the summer. At the time the bike was restricted but I spent most of the day riding with people I met along the way so...

What happens in you press the battery capacity indicator for 10 seconds as shown on page 22/23 of the document linked to by georgehenry?

So going back to the OP it must be about due to die ;) . While I have nowhere near as many cycles as you mine was used very hard (10km with 1km climbing on one regular route for example) before I fitted the parallel battery. It has also been run to cut out on too many occasions as I was living...

How many charge cycles are you showing in the test on the previous page?

The Yamaha charger does not have power on the connection until it has a handshake signal from the battery.

The voltage is higher, 42V fully charged 32 V discharged. If you multiply the voltage by the current you get power, your maximum current is fixed.

Looks like the precedent has been set at the Old Bailey yesterday! https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-7597315/Cyclist-appears-Old-Bailey-accused-killing-pedestrian-hitting-electric-bike.html&ved=2ahUKEwjgzraMua_lAhWwVRUIHWpVDKQQFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw04mutgRS8PkfCiYb8Tf_7K

A 250w geared motor has a clutch so no rolling resistance from the motor.

As you mentioned Yamaha you can stick a magnet on the crank and move the sensor to the outside of the chainstay and dongle it free to see if it gives you what you want. Speedo won't work though.

Why not leave them both connected, much kinder to the batteries. You do need to take steps to ensure voltages are identical when connecting and charge them separately.