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^WTF!

I was doing just that a fortnight ago, wasn't in the UK though.;)

I thought Hollowtech 1 was an octalink not square taper bottom bracket. Either way you will need a new longer bottom bracket to use the pas sensor you have or you need to buy a different sensor.

Bear in mind the spacing between the sprockets varies depending on the number of gears. 7 speed is 5mm centre to centre, 8 speed is 4.8 and 9 is 4.34 so you will have problems indexing correctly. The DNP freewheel is much wider than a standard Shimano or Sram (I know that is to cater for the 11...

I have travelled across Europe at over 130mph and just this morning come up a winding mountain pass very quickly with bikes (not ebikes) on the roof with no problems. I have had my ebike on the roof but its not something I would like to travel far with. On the other hand I have driven many miles...

I regularly do 50 km with 2 to 3 thousand metres of climbing with 800Wh of battery using the top 2 power levels for climbing (mine is only 4 power levels not the 5 that the newer ones have, the top power level on the 5 power ones eats the battery ). I have about 20 to 30% of battery remaining...

Yes they have a communication between the battery and the rest of the system. It has been reverse engineered so it is possible to use other batteries. Details can be found on pedelecforum.de use Google translate if you don't understand German.

It's the cassette, given you have changed the chainring because it's too low geared suggests you spend most of the time in the top couple of gears. As they have fewer teeth they will wear very quickly unless they are made of better material. Change the cassette sooner rather than later before...

I have hired an additional Yamaha battery locally for the princely sum of €5. Wouldn't rely on being able to do so without asking in advance.

You sure about that? He may be able to recell by keeping everything live but I'm sure he can't fix the BMS / communication module.

Whatever you do even if someone suggests otherwise do not go trying to do capacity tests with external loads and do not go sticking multimeters into battery terminals. If you try to do a load test you will kill the battery, if you go sticking a multimeter on it you will not get correct readings...

Pas is in the motor surely.

I don't know how accurate it is but I find this amusing / interesting. https://xkcd.com/1732/

You don't get actual voltage until the battery is on the bike and turned on. I have an extender battery on mine, if I measure the voltage it will increase when I turn the battery on. Also worth noting on the OEM battery if you try and put a load on (maybe a lamp) with the battery not switched...

It is symptomatic on no communications between the battery and the display. It is possible that dirty connections can cause this but usually it is the battery that is at fault. Does the original battery work?

You can only read the voltage on a Yamaha battery with the battery on the bike ans switched on. Be careful of the third terminal with your multimeter, if you probe it to the wrong side you will kill the electronics! (With an OEM BMS)

Remember he was only prosecuted for the same offences anyone riding a deristricted ebike would be.

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-6225039/Nissan-Leafs-range-just-160-miles-good-luck-finding-charging-point-works.html

Yes the chamfered bit is likely to be the old crown race.

That's not right, have you got 2 crown races on there?