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@flecc/rooel: can you say from this picuture what version it may be ? eBay: Sram Sparc Elektromotor E-Motor (Artikel 300116817559 endet 10.06.07 21:00:00 MESZ) i guess big time its the old one.. (he sold 3 sparc, all used)

thx for your information ! i don´t know (yet) if it get the 12V (old version) or the newer 16,8Volt one.. i have looked at the document: where have you the information from, that the motors are brushless ? maybe do you know which motors are used as well (brand) ?!? from the picture from page...

the problem with two motors is, that i would need two controllers.. i use brushless SENSORLESS controllers from Kontronik here the specs of the KOntronik JAZZ 80-6-18 (for up to 6s lipos) or the JAZZ 55-10-32 (for up to 10s Lipos) Jazz - Drehzahlsteller für sensorlose Brushless Motoren, Jatt -...

offtopic the second: here just some real-world data of a motor i use myself and have measured myself: its a Lehner 1930-8 in star-configuration 230g light 36mm motordiameter 56mm long i think this motor may maybe fit into the sparc here the data i measured myself within an rc-offroad buggy...

@flecc: thx.. so: when iam not going 40km/h with an e-bike without pedaling i should not get problems with the police ;) (even when i use a stronger motor, for faster hill-climbs) @coops: yes i think you read it right way.. are you wondering about some datas ? the rpm ? the motors in...

hmm... when you look at this you can feel sorry.. a hub-motor weights something around 4kg, rated with 250Watt, 400Watt, 700Watt maybe even 1000Watt ?? this motor weights only 460g 44mm diameter 80mm long http://www.lehner-motoren.com/diagramm/2240-17.33v_liste.txt nevertheless it can put...

so that sounds not too bad for me.. iam not the strongest with my legs.. (ended some time ago at 330Wat on ergometer (every 3min watt were increased by 40watts) for my power and weight (~71kg) the gears should hold ;) for the motor: if it are that kind of motors from power-tools (of the...

to make picture that says maybe more than some forumlas: a bike that goes with 26mph in the flat and comes to a hill,were it can go only 13mph at full throttle (50% loose of rpm compared to flat) ==> the efficience would be HORRIBLE to say at least.. less than 50% :eek: so more than half of...

?? why.. don´t understand this point... it should improve your range not other way round.. because: on hills the efficience would be much greater,on the flat it would run like always.. the torque is effected by the squareroot of 3 so at same given voltage and same ampere: torque * 1.732 rpm...

thx.. how likely is such a hub to fail ?!? 200Watts of the motor + my 300Watt from the legs (maybe 500Watt+ (leg-peaks)) ? at least i have not seen a hub on the bikes in my neighbourhood fail after years.. hmm.. for the motor: on the opended picture ont he sram-homepage: ...::: POWERED BY...

sorry.. my english my english.. what do you mean with: easy enough ? easy to disassamble and re-assamble ? so, if a part fails i have to replace the complete unit ? (the gears, maybe not the motor + controller) ?!? the bike-industrie is make me wonder more and more.. how can it...

have not read the whole post.. very long.. but: if the motor is a burshless one, would it be not possible to use it in star and triangle -configuration (is it called that in English language ?) i mean: in star-configuration rpms are by factor 1.7 slower, but torque will increase by...

well.. bought it for 104 Euro i think a very good price, isn´t it ? i have now got the information,that you don´t feel it when pedaling without motor-assistance.. for weight: its around 2.5kg for the hub-gear-unit -> normal hub-gears without motor are often over 1kg in weight...

450 Pfund ?!? wow.. well, than maybe 150 Euro would be not that bad of an deal.. maybe i should even pay more...

here a short overview about the M1 A123 Fepo4: DeWalt 36V Technology (A123 Systems) it shows a discharge-curve... there you can see how constant the Fepo4 discharges compared to LiIon or Nimh click to see PICTURE if the currents are high enough (you will not see that in a e-bike) and the cells...

@flecc: yes, speed is the key for success.. some people think: i don´t want to damage cells, i use a weaker iron -> and melt cells (Nimh, LiIon, ...) key is: powerful iron, not more than 2sec. of soldering and its fine in my experience there are some LiIon very sensitive on soldering...

hmm.. how much would you pay for it.. i think i will go up to 150Euro.. if he wants more i will forget about it.. i liked the fact, it is said to be very light... as i have seen, its powered by 16Volt ? i would want to use a light battery (0.42kg light) to have after conversion still...

oh.. last thing: on the soldering descriptions it says: that the point in the middle of the cells is a safety vent and should not be over-soldered thats not true.. it turned out, that this is the point were the electrolyt was filled in.. so it can be oversoldered without any danger or risk..

for soldering here are some description how to do it with lot of pictures: soldering SIDE-by-SIDE: How To Build a Battery Pack from A123 Cells - RC Groups (English description) soldering INLINE: Lomcovak.cz:Dilna:A123 za sebou (not english but lot of speaking-for-themselfe pictures)...

charger: yes, a charger for Nicd or NiMh will not work.. but charging itself is easier than with Nicd/Nimh cells (no delta-peak-measuring needed) there are peple charging them with notebook-powersupplies, or regulated power supplies which many people already have at home for...