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I reckon that the 9-pin connector next to the motor isn't pushed in far enough. It has to be all the way to the line.

Where did you get that from? It's not my experience at all. It's true that they have no drag when freewheeling, but they have drag all the time you're pedalling, which can become quite noticeable when you're pedalling over the 15 mph limit. The faster you pedal, the worse it is. You can test the...

Which LCD do you have?

You can use any one you want. The enclose type that clip into the left side BB are neat, but not as durable as the open type because they get clogged with dirt that jams and wears them, though the open type can get busted if the chain comes off or they can wear through if they keep getting...

If you think the throttle wires might be causing the problem, disconnect the throttle and see if the problem goes away. You only have to unplug a connector and you have the answer.

You are joking, right?

EN15194 says that you can have a motor that goes up to 6km/hr without pedalling.

If you know best, carry on.

There's always somebody trying to make stuff more complicated. What you said is true, but not really what the discussion is about. You're just going to confuse everyone.

Motorbikes still have the throttles. On modern ones, the twistgrip works a throttle controller. It's an indirect throttle control rather than a direct one.Ebikes never had or have throttles, since they don't need air for the power. If you used the analogy for an ebike, the torque sensor or pedal...

The LED indicator is not part of the BMS. It works completely independently.

If you have two motors the same, then they have to be no more than 125w each. 125w motors are not easy to find.

Definitely caused by cloud seeding then. You can tell by the amount of pseudo science they bring out to try and cover it up.

That's funny, before you posted that, I was thinking the same about your weight loss. Every cloud has a silver lining. You'll be much faster up the hills now. When I eventually get my gall bladder removed along with all the heavy gall stones in it, I'll be able to pedal up the hills with about...

I'm not sure if I understand what you're saying. It seems to be the wrong way round. You need the switch to prevent the spark when connecting the battery to the controller, so if the switch has been removed, you should leave your battery in all the time, otherwise you'll burn the terminals...

You have a speed control controller, so power would be the same on all levels. Stop panicking. If my diagnosis is correct, you can fix it with a soldering iron and a screwdriver. Pray that your controller isn't potted.

It's better to lubricate it to prevent it from jamming. 3-in-One oil has three functions: penetrate, protect, lubricate. That's why you should use specifically 3-in-One and not any oil.

There was a panel with LED lights that show the state of charge. The switch next to it either just activated that panel for a few seconds to see the state of charge, or it was wired to the BMS to switch the battery on and off.

Guys that go on the TV and stupid journalists that write in newspapers don't have a clue about the regulations. They're the last people you should listen to. You can use any device you want to control the power and speed of your bike as long as the motor doesn't give power when the speed is...

All the established brands, like Wisper, Juicy, Freego, Oxygen, Battribyke, etc had/have such systems and have/had full certification to EN15194, so something must be wrong with your understanding.