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That's a terrible design of the sensor arrangement. |It'll get dirt in it, which will wear through the plastic, which is probably what's happened. It might be an idea to replace that with a conventional pedal sensor.

No point because the motor is illegal, anyway. Why do you want a 750w motor?

A larger chainring works too, but it raises the gearing on all gears, which isn't a good thing on some bikes; however, this one has very low gearing, so it would have been a good solution. I have some larger chainwheels, but I really wanted one with the trouser guard on it, which none of them have.

It's already set to pedal assist. Just don't fit the throttle.

If you use a motor that's rated at 250w and it only gives power while you pedal, you can use it on the road as if it's a bicycle.

There's definitely something going on with those nipples. It looks to me like a fairly clear case of electrolytic corrosion caused by dissimilar metals in contact with each other. Without checking what everything is made of it's difficult to be conclusive. I'm wondering if they used brass...

I just wanted to see if those cable hydraulics were any good, because I never tried them before. They're a good solution for anybody that has enclosed cables or doesn't want to mess about with adding switches to regular hydraulics or pulling the grips off the handlebars to get the levers on...

Yes, 6 speed derailleur. It's normally the freewheel that jams, which you can avoid by feeding copious amounts of 3-in One oil.

I bought it. He was accepting offers. I waited to see if any of you lot wanted it first.

What bikes are they? What control panels do they have? What type of pedal sensors?

No. Nothing to worry about id the noise is what I described. There are other causes of noise, mainly something rubbing on it, especially when the washers on the axle aren't right.

I got that one for £120 plus postage. I have a couple of good donor hardtails that I'll swap all the bits over from, including an AKm 128 freewheel motor, which is a torque monster.

Testing I rode the bike to the shops today and came back with about 6kg of stuff. There's one steep uphill in each direction. Everything worked as I'd hoped. It's comfortable to pedal at 15 mph in top gear. The bottom gears are now unnecessary because of the power from the motor. I set the power...

4 and 5. Power and Control System I killed two birds with one stone by replacing the controller with a 15A KT sine wave one with LCD4. There was quite a lot of work in that, as I had to unthread the original wiring through the frame and thread through the new stuff. I put a loop in a gear cable...

I started this thread again to give a recap and conclusion, since the last one got diluted by crap before I'd got half-way throgh, which makes it tedious for people, who are interested in the story and want to do similar. This is a series of improvement I made to a £245 Argos E-move folding...

All good points. You also have to take into account the characteristics of the rider. A 50kg rider only needs approximately half the torque to get up the same hill as a 100kg rider. Some riders are very strong and fit, so they only want a minimal amount of assistance just to help them with the...

Square wave controllers make the motor noisier and rougher than a sine wave one, especially if you give high power at low speed. The noise comes from the individual commutation pulses. It's a bit like the motor being knocked round rather than pushed round. It sounds a bit like gear noise, and it...

We're you only charging to 90% to prolong your battery life - tee hee?

Is it a sine wave or square wave controller? Sinewave has SVPR in the designation after the voltage, square wave has something different with a Z (?) In it.

The fact that it took three hours is a good sign that the cells are healthy. The only question is how it got like that. If a bleed resistors transistor got stuck, it would have gone all the way to zero. Its unusual for one cell group to go down when the battery's in regular use. Some batteries...