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I did consider, but it seems to involve a lot more cost. Really I should have done a bit more homework before buying the kit. I am thinking I could replace the motor wheel for about half the cost of replacing the battery. The main use of the bike is for this trip I mention above, so range is not...

I currently have a rear hub conversion with a MXUS XF08C, 36v 11.4Ah battery & KT LCD5 controller. Also a Julet 9 pin motor connector. I would like to have a second rear wheel with a faster motor as an alternative that I could swap with the above as required. Could I build up the below motor...

I am happy to solder the connections, but at the time of installation didn't have the equipment so yes twisted connections. Also wasn't sure how much worse than a properly soldered connection this was; which you have now answered so I will look to rectify. I will get hold of an iron and solder...

Hi Budgetbodger, apologies for the slow reply, many thanks for your input. I have a screwed plug connection into the battery; so no other connections will need to be broken if I want to remove the battery or controller. At present I have ended up with 2 joints on the battery to controller cable...

Morning All, On my conversion kit on an MTB I have purchased a battery separately from the conversion kit. The way it is installed I have ended up with 2 connection points in the controller to battery wire, one at the end of the controller tail & one at the end of the battery tail with a length...

And AlanQuay, to respond to your question, I believe it is a 10S 4P configuration, but am unable to get it off the bike at the moment to check weight. It is in a black steel bottle shape housing that Yosepower are still using for some of their other batteries. I think the weight of it on the...

Morning All, Thanks for the responses. It sounds as though I have chosen a battery that is suitable for the motor which is good news. I just need to look after it well now to give as long a life as possible. I try to set off with low assistance or by dragging the brake slightly to cut out the...

I recently converted an MTB & at the time did not realise how important battery selection was. After reading more & more on here I am now interested to find out whether I have made a good choice that matches the motor & controller or not. I have a MXUS XF08C rear hub motor with a KT 36V 250W...

Thanks Nealh, do you actively avoid the hardcase enclosures for potential heat reasons then?

Thanks WheezyRider, I had been reading the same regarding heat load of the controllers; but was also thinking of the batteries with integrated controller; they appear to be encased fully in plastic with no issues. But I really don't know if there is any means of ventilation built in to those, or...

Thanks very much to you both for the feedback. I might look at the Velcro suggestion to see if it keeps it still. I think my original post wasn't very clear, but I already have an enclosure mounted, just want to know if I'm ok to secure the controller within and how may be best to do it.

Morning all, after a little advise please? Is there a preferred method to secure a controller within a plastic controller housing (bolted to underside of top tube)? I think mine is bouncing around a little and just wondered what others do to make sure they are secure within the cases? I was...

Thanls for the clarification. I can see how the wheel could sit 1.5mm lower with the increase in radius from the axle centre. Mine does engage fully on the flats but the wheel only came with one flanged nut, the other parallel. It could be worth measuring the dropout depth and flat face diameter...

Ok, thanks understand now. Mine did sit inside the dropout then the tan on the anti rotation washer just sat inside the dropout flats as well. It's not ideal though, so should fit a torque arm really. (Apologies for jumping in on your thread ryan). Maybe there is a chance for a rear motor if...

Hi Nealh, your comments on the rear dropouts; I think I have something similar to this donor bike but am now interested to see if I have missed anything with my build. Is it a case of if it goes together all is ok; or is there more to consider? (I didn't quite understand the part where you said...

I recently converted a trek 6700 2009 with a rear wheel hub kit. I ended up going with psw power/mxus xf08c kit. I bought a battery from yosepower. I didn't get the yosepower kit as I wanted to keep it fully road legal. Unfortunately the spokes weren't tensioned correctly so had to fix that...

Well, have discussed with vendor and they are not interested in helping unfortunately. They quoted the terms of the warranty, which is fair enough I suppose. Any repairs are in China and buyer covers return post. (Even though was supplied from a German warehpuse) Obviously nowhere near...

Is that ok to put their name on here? I wasn't sure if it was allowed or not? I have contacted them about what I thought was the motor noise & they have asked for photos of the motor. I am going to go back & discuss the wheel build; but haven't yet.

Thanks Nealh, I took the wheel off to see what was involved in opening the motor and there was a strange rattling noise. I soon realised that a LOT of the spokes were very loose. Also one of the spoke nipples had completely unthreaded and was running around inside the rim. After re-tensioning...

Morning All, I have been having my first few test rides on a newly fitted rear hub conversion kit (MXUS XF08C, 36V, 250V). It seems that the motor has become more noisy over the first few rides (ie. nearly silent when first ridden, but increasing since.) It is very hard to describe the noise...