Search results

I thought as much. 9A is a complete waste of time. Having lookied at the photo again, I can see that the battery connector is removeable, so you could unsolder the wires and solder them to your new battery.

Indicator lights are often 1 red and 3 or 4 green. They're a joke. Take no notice of them. Use a meter if you need to know the battery's voltage.

The controller is in the hub too, which makes changing anything very awkward. No doubt, the controller is set to a very low current because a 3200mAh battery wouldn't be able to provide much. It should be possible to bypass the battery, but it requires a bit of surgery because of the way it...

Any 10, 8 or 5 magnet one should be fine. Look for the cheapest one. They all work the same and I challenge anybody to notice the difference in performance. Avoid any 12 magnet ones and any that mention dual hall sensors or any expensive ones. Make sure you get one with enough wire length. If...

Put your red probe on the position where the red is soldered to the cell-pack, then probe where the black is soldered to it, then to the negative terminal, then to the charge negative. If all have the same voltage, there’s nothing wrong with the BMS. If your charger allows it, you should be...

For lithium, the charger needs to bre 54.6v. You could get away with maybe 0.2v above or below, but any further than that could bring problems. Many chargers are adjustable. Look inside to to see if has an adjustable potentiometer inside it - the block type with a little scew in the top.

Ok, that's different. I assumed it was a crossbar type. I can now understand how it cracked. In that case you can't use the epoxy tube repair. You'd have to strip it down and get it properly welded unless you can get a new frame from somewhere. frames are usually guaranteed for a long time, but...

That looks pretty well terminal. The only thing I can suggest is to drop the motor out, cut a but of tube off a spare seatpin and epoxy it inside . It's a weird place to break because I wouldn't have expected there to be the sort off stresses that would cause it. I can't see that it would be...

ONS survey asks the question, "Can your household afford to pay an unexpected, but necessary, expense of £850?" It's towards the end of the Covid section. That question comes straight out of the blue and isn't in any way related to the others. Is anybody else taking part in the survey?

BMSBattery, Topbikekit, Greenikekit, Elifebike, Aliexpress.

The 36v one is a lot better than the 24v one. It has a lot more power and torque. At £300, it's probably a good buy as long as it's in good general condition.

you get blue/green corrosion when salt water gets on the connectors. Silicone grease is what I use to protect things like that. Put some in all your connectors if you ride in winter.

No.

You can use any of the medium oe large geared hub-motors. Make sure you get one with the speed you want. 201 rpm for 15 mph 260 rpm for 20 mph and 320 rpm for 24 mph (26" wheel).

It depends on what you have. There are all sorts of differences. some are compatible and some aren't.

Wear on the pedals and pedal arms is a clue to high mileage. Original tyres is a clue to not high mileage, and the amount of wear would give some indication to how much. Pips still on original tyres says very low mileage.

As always, lovely photos, but they don't show what we need. We need the BMS, it's connections and the wiring to the charge socket and terminals.

I ordered two controllers from China. They came a few days ago. No duty, no invoices, nothing different to before.

It would have been better to show where the yellow and green wires go and what's under that insulating tape.

It's always nice to see people experimenting and sharing their experience, but it was all a bit superficial. Our man Ray didn't seem to have a good knowledge about ebike conversions, so overall the video is a bit misleading. I can imagine that he's pretty practical and a lot of fun to work with...