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@Kape , The best way to get assistance is to video the problem and stick the video on a cloud host and share it with us. Make sure you get a decent audio so we can hear it too. I had a similar issue with my Tongsheng, I sent it back complete to Andy at Whoosh who cleared the motor and...

@vfr400 Is spot on. Always solder wherever you can. Depending on the size of the wires use a hot iron about 290-350deg C. Use a small file or sandpaper on the iron tip to begin and have a small wet sponge handy to clean the tip as you go. Then tin the ends with solder as he said - that...

Can anybody give a recommendation for e-bike stand-alone insurance? I live in a grandad/granny flat I had built on my son's big house. He organises and pays for the insurance and I just discovered my bike is not covered by it this year as he changed insurers to get a better deal. Cheers Tony.

Local B&Q or Screwfix

John - 50 miles is a pretty long ride...my bum would never survive the pounding! As you are a big man if you were to attempt that sort of ride including hills on e-power alone with a 10.3ah battery you would probably end up at about 15 miles short. If you put some effort in, then easily...

John- I don't really understand why you are looking at a 48v kit and a 52v battery??? It will probably work ok, but why do it and take a risk with warranties etc? There are plenty of 48v batteries out there which will work within specification and not jeopardize your warranty.

John- Sounds good. Carefully check out the difference in pricing between online suppliers and their track record with issues/warranty/support against UK suppliers such as Whoosh. When I looked at this for my conversion, I found the difference was less than £30, and I was happy to buy mine from...

You have 3 choices, Front Hub, Rear Hub or Mid-Drive. All have their pluses and negatives. A front hub is easy to fit, if you have a puncture a front hub and mid-drive are much easier than a rear hub to manage. A rear hub is more like driving a small moped especially with a throttle. A...

It depends on how you intend to use the bike. You haven't yet stated this in any of your replies so we are in the dark with that. If you want to do a load of off-road trails then that dictates you would need a bike with full suspension. If it's mainly tarmac paths and roads, then full...

I thought I made that clear, if it wasn't - thank you for the clarification.

Why don't you ask them, Tony from Whoosh is usually lurking around here, he's replied on this thread, the signature has their contact details.

@dwvl On my learning curve with e-bikes, I have tried front and rear hub bikes and prefer a mid-drive. Each to his own, and I point out the type of riding you will do on the bike is a major factor in choosing a donor bike. The easiest fitting is a front hub, I found the ride skittish, you...

@dwvl Another issue I forgot to mention is the weight of the bike is very important if you use a bike rack on your vehicle. An electric bike has an extra 2-4kg of weight without battery, if the bike is heavy to begin with it can be an almighty struggle to get it on the rack, be it on the...

@dwvl I suppose it depends on how you ride your bike. Personally, I like to ride as much as I can with all assist turned off in a vain attempt to get a little fitter. On the controller I have with the Tongsheng mid-drive kit I fitted there is a setting where you can have the display up and...

I'm with VR400 on this, a DIY kit is not expensive, why compromise on a battery? Depending on what range you want to achieve, you could always buy a smaller cheaper but good quality battery and make yourself up a spare with your used ones. That way if you needed more range than the small...

I really don't see a motor, certainly not a 250w motor exerting more force on a chain drive system than a big man standing on the pedals to drive a bike up a hill. Sorry, that's just not possible in any scenario. I think you were right about the 9mm axle, that's about the size of the...

I'm with Whoosh on this, light-weight is no 1 closely followed by bottom bracket conversion ease. If you are going to go to the effort of doing a conversion, go for a mid-drive as first option, followed by rear wheel hub.

With my rig, the TSDZ2 is fitted to a Specialized Crossroads which has an aluminium bike frame. If you press really hard anywhere on the bottom bracket area, the whole bike will creak and move slightly even when all nuts and bolts are super tight. When on a normal ride it unnoticeable.

I just had a similar experience. I am not as heavy as you (85kg) and started hearing this clunk. Turned out to be the axle was eccentric. Mine was a mid-drive motor, it sounds like your rear hub motor has a similar issue. The thread is...

Found the cause of the clunk. I took my rear wheel off and gave it to another bike shop after Andy/Tony at Whoosh checked my TSDZ2 motor out in their workshop and announced it was ok. The mechanic discovered the axle was eccentric. When he spun the wheel it became obvious that was the issue...