Search results

I was thinking the same. The current control in a KT controller allows you to select level 1, which gives a constamt power just enough to overcome the weight of an ebike and a little more, regardless of speed. Riding my ebike on level 1 takes more or less the same effort to ride my non-electric...

The rack and battery are a pair. There are lots of other pairs of racks and batteries, but you can't take a battery out of one rack and put it in another unless you're very lucky. You can use any rack/battery pair you want. It doesn't have to be the Wisper one as long as you make sure that it...

Use Google to search the forum. we get one of these posts every couple of weeks. All the other posts have a reply with the manual attached.

The regulation is on the rated power of the motor, not the power that you put through it, so no, you can't make it legal even if you had a 1w controller. Lot's of people have used these motors. Nobody is checking, but anything can happen in the future. If you want legal, the BBS01 would...

the first thing i noticed is that your frame is not a normal shape, so there's a small chance that it will not accept the common crank-drives. If I were to guess, i'd say that there's just enough room, but, as always, your pictures are all from the wrong angles to see the important things. The...

Could you give some details of exactly which motor and controller you have? Show photos if you can. Does this happen with a pedal sensor and/or a throttle?

I'll do it for you if you can bring it to Telford and collect when done. Send me a PM if you want to do that.

So? That's an and not an or.

If the LCD switches off at the time of the motor stopping, it's almost certain that its power from the battery has been interrupted. If the motor stops and the LCD stays on, it's a problem between the control system and the motor.

OK, so you have a CX2. The wiring diagram is for the first version of fold ing bike. You'rs might be slightly different, though easier from the point of view of changing the pedal sensor. Everything i said in post #2 still stands. It's a straight forward thing to repair. get the new sensor, then...

What sort of speed sensor are you using. Is it a wheel magnet type or one in the motor?

Post your reply in this thread. Don't start another new one. Click the "reply" at bottom right of this post. What do you mean it doesn't have a throttle? Show us a picture of your bike so that we know what you have. Is it a new bike? Has it been modified?

The throttle should work if you disconnect the pedal sensor from both connectors. Wiring diagram.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174747264234?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111314%26meid%3D3d6219ce03994404a701c6d53471c682%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D363376484689%26itm%3D174747264234%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSi...

You have to be realistic. I'm going to guess that the winning bid would be between £500 and £750, and pray that you don't get a non-paying bidder, who just bids to see what the price would go up to, or which there are two many on Ebay at the moment.

I'm not disagreeing with the practical aspect of your advice; however, we need to keep a proportioned view. For any pragmatist it's very much an over-statement. The word "likely" should be replaced by "unlikely". Certain forum members are known to have spent a lot of time over the 15 mph limit...

I've been on this forum for more than 10 years. During that time, we've seen kits from all sorts of suppliers - some dodgy ones and some highly reputed ones. A large proportion of forum members have built their own electric bikes by conversion of either a previous electric or non-electric bike...

You'd need a battery, controller, hydraulic brakes and high gearing. It would be easier to convert a bike more suitable for that sort of speed. The Onebot S6 is a 12mph bicycle. It wouldn't make sense to buy one for £800, then chuck all the electrical items, and spend £500 on new bits to get...

The answer is no. Your controller would pop, and even if you could find a 72v controller that you could fit somehow, your motor would run so inefficiently that it would overheat and burn on the first hill it got to if it could get that far. The highest you could go is 12S (44V) by adding a 2S...

Please show photos of your bike that show the whole thing, then ones that show the area around the bottom bracket, the chainwheel and the back wheel. Your assumptions about a crank motor are incorrect. There are hub-motors that can work very efficiently, though it doesn't mean that a crank...