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There isn't one. They're designed to work with hub-motors and old controllers. They can be adapted to work with other things, but you'd need to change all the connectors. All they do is test that you have no shorts on the motor coils, the throttle has power,the hall sensors works and that the...

That's ridiculously expensive. You can buy the same parts yourself for from £40 to £80. I have no idea of your husband's knowledge. Does he know how to test an ebike - and I don't mean test battery voltage?

Amp-hours are the capacity of the battery when discharged at something like 0.2C (0.2 x no. of AH), so an 11AH one should have 78% of the capacity of a 14A one, or if the 14AH goes 40 miles, the 11Ah goes 31miles; however, it's not as simple as that. Cell capacity goes down as the current goes...

There's the mathematicians way and the engineers way. I'm an engineer, so I do it like this: 25km/h is approximately 201 rpm for a 26" wheel so a 202 wheel would be 25 x 200/26 = 19 km/h 300 rpm with a 29" wheel would be 25 x 300/201 x 29/26 = 41.6 km/h if you were doing 32km/h with a 28"...

The torque sensor is on the back of the chainwheel. You might have pulled or otherwise damaged the wires. Also the motor connector under the left side chainstay is very dodgy. have a good look at it and make sure all the pins are in and that it's properly connected.

Flip the magnet disc to make it work in the other direction.

I doubt that you'll find an exact match Freego controller, but you can use any controller. Before you do that, there are some very simple diagnostic checks to figure out what's wrong if you have a meter.

I had a controller like that once. It had some weird behaviour that always followed the same pattern. i can't remember what logic it followed, but once I recognised that the behaviour was consistent, i was able to figure out the pattern. it was solved with a setting in the LCD somewhere for...

What's causing your controller to get hot is the high speed of the motor. It'll stay cool while you're going fast, but when you're travelling at lower speeds with full power, it'll become hot. Basically, the controller is running at 22A more of the time. It's only rated at 11A. Obviously, the...

If the LED panel says on, it's a problem between the control system and the motor, not the battery. Two things to try first: Check that the motor connector is in all the way to the marked line, not just in tight. After that, follow the wires from the brakes until you come to a connector, then...

One of these pressed steel hubs is better because you can remove the threaded part without modification. Just drill holes in it. I cut the hub, but you don't need to: You might have a problem with the axle length. Here's this bafang QSWXK5 with a single speed freewheel on it. i used it for a...

It's a simple bi-polar hall sensor running at 5v. Red is 5v, yellow is ground and blue is the switched signal. Some controllers have 3-wire connectors and some have 2-wire ones for the brake switches. If they're two wire ones, you connect the ground to the ground wire and the signal to the...

The problem is the width of the freewheels with more than 7 speeds. To get the rim central in the frame, you have to off-set it from the centre of the spoke flanges. A small offset has no downside, but the difference in spoke tension between the two sides rises exponentially as the off-set...

Show us some pictures of your bike from different angles so that we can see what you have. As always, the photos you showed give very little useful info.

Dawley Bank

Even a decent FS carbon frame will deflect with a BBSHD. They're just not designed to be strong enough to resist the massive force on the chain.

Measure the battery voltage as soon as you take it off the charger. Measure it again at the start of your ride and again immediately after it cuts out. Take the meter with you when you ride the bike.

I only wired in the new BMS. it seems that the original one was faulty. The mosfets weren't switching on fully.

Maybe they didn't have brake sensors fitted. I can't see brake sensors mentioned in the listing. Some controllers run on after you stop pedalling, so you need brake switches to switch off the power when you want to stop or slow down. The run-on time can be anything from 1/2 to 2 seconds.

It looks much better with the basket on. Great project. I'm specially pleased that you recovered from your health problem. We need guys like you on this forum.