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A one piece TA design means there is no nut /bolt join to fail or move. When I need a TA , I make my own from what ever steel I have laying about. 2mm/2.5mm is the thickest I have used and have had no issue with the thickness. The critcal point is drilling preping the axle hole for a snug...

For front forks one has to select suitable forks to work with, typically most have little metal or a gusset that strengthens the drop out. Front shock forks aren't practical for a hub motor so one is best to upgrade to a dececnt steel /chromalloy fork, however folks don't think about putting...

Charger is generic dumb type so and leds changing colour is simply a function. 1. Green led no charge /no current = correct. 2. Red led when charging/ current flowing = correct. 3. The final changing of the led to green is dependant on the BMS swithcing off to stop the current . No green...

Can't agree more Chris though first few threads are a mess.

Be happy that you are now road legal , tbh I find riding above 15.5mph not an issue with my TSDZ2 with no PAS support.

It's cheap enough even with the p&p, one will have to be the forum test guinea pig on this one.

With the BMS sense wire ribbon in most cases on has to resolder all of the wires again , typically unless an exact replacement is found. Even then one has to be 100% sure the BMS order is correct and not reversed. If one can't access the cell ends directly to solder then one can cut the...

Can't believe those doughnuts recommend filing the hub axle.

3.5 miles is nothing for a cheap bike as will be running local errands to/from local shops , what one needs to consider is if longer rides might occur on a regular basis. Components are basic but like anything they are upgradable . EAPC's from a little under £300 to £600 are all ok and work ...

As I mentioned someare with balance feature and some without so the full spec needs reading, those without balance still have lvc /hvc BMS control . As long as one charges fully and not short charging less then full then balance shouldn't be an issue with pucker cells. Over time short...

Two wire BMS will charge/ discharge thru the same port so utilising the same switching components this can allow for greater current charge though in most cases will be detrimental to battery life. Three wire charge /discharge via seperate ports so will utilise seperate switching components...

Curently for my needs I'm using 'Be Much Safer' brand. They have some with balance and some without, I also prefer switched BMS.

No turning back now Cadence .

d8veh and I keep beating the same drum , when it comes to generic controllers a KT set up for it's money ( £70 - £100) simply can't be bettered.

Thanks for posting harrys , might be of use for those of us running the Tongsheng.

The only difference between the two BMS types is the charging . 3 wire has seperate charge port , 2 wire one charges and discharges via the same port . Those DALY's can be a bit suspect and fail , if one does find it fails then use another BMS brand. I have had a couple fail on me , one...

I had two bike set ups with parallel batteries and at the end of each journey both batteries on each bike was in much the same ball park voltage wise. My Boardman had a PF 14.5ah cases battery and a softpack of PF 's 10s 8p a simple Y lead connected them but always made sure charge voltage...

I had two batteries for longer rides , 160km from one battery wasn't pssible for me.

Some of us never bother with diodes, we simply used th KISS option for day outings.. Charge both batteries to the same voltage within 0.02v and connect up in parallel. Diodes and the extra wiring etc I can understand if touring esp as Matthew does , as he can't guarantee where or when he...

The tubular one at 22mm could be a seat tube option but it does beg the question of cable exit.