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One must buy a KT lcd to use with the KT controller any other brand will not work . The G370 is a lightweight front hub motor only 1.6kg and very good, I'm 80.5 - 0 81 kg and also tow a 100kg trailer at times with it , my terrain is flatish with small inclines here and there but nothing...

Exactly D8veh. !!!!!!!

You need to get the broken part from the repair guy and /or take a pic , it is the only way we cen see waht you have. Typically PAS only has three wires so any PAS should work , but we need more help from you if you want our help with suggestions.

15.5mph/25kmh is the EU and UK legal assist cut off, some bikes one can go a bit more but not all bike displays allow adjustment as the speed is preset in the programming. P.s Don't let the forum plonker see this post otherwise he will want you banned.

Which bike brand ? Which PAS mode does it occur in ?

It needs ability to follow our simple advice to open and check if a battery is scrap or recoverable, quite a few of us have the technical knowhow of how to recover /check batteries as well as building them. Other wise it is a return to Wisper for a diagnosis and whether it is good or not.

One can't remove the sensor/ PAS and still expect power assist when pedalling, that is why EAPC's have pedal assist.

If hasn't been charged for a year , it is either dead or in sleep mode.

Tbh any bike gaffa taped like that shouts bodge job.

Fortunately not many of us live in Wiltshire, here in the free county of W.Sx plod don't really give a toss about anything.

I found they needed spinning to get the best out of them up to 80rpm/cadence.

Some settings might need tweaking , one needs the free software to down load and a prog cable. 10 - 12 mph isn't right for 48v one. I had a 36v 18a 350w original BBS01 10 yrs ago and 18mph was top speed assisted. I was able to manage 10wh /m and manage 52 miles with a 36v 522wh battery.

Personally I opt for RHS PAS to go behind chain wheel. If one has the hollowtech BB or similar sram version then a BZ10C PAS is needed.

Yes S09S /T09S is the one , my one is SM connectors for easier fault finding. HWBS is hidden wire brake sensor (these are for wired manual brakes) . One cuts the brake wire and inserts them along the brake line. D12L is LHS two part PAS (sensor and disc) , V12L is LHS all in one PAS.

That snippet of info actually tells us a lot . If it works on walk assist then the controller is fine (it indicates the controller is working and powering the hub motor, controllers either work or don't work their is no inbetween ), the issue is most likely 99.99% the PAS sensor arrangement...

It has been done and not just once , we have had two or three go down the Carerra /suntour conversion route. The only issue you will have is to decide where to place the controller , either in a tool bag under the saddle or in a under slung crossbar bag . WIth the Suntour one needs to keep the...

Yes , one is better replacing the display and controller. If one buys KT controller then one can opt to buy one of the nicer lcd's to go with it, for five power levels of current . LCD3 is very popular , lcd4 is tiny and discreet otherwise their are some ten other lcds's to choose from ...

Not everyone is keen on buying from china or confident in buying seperate kit parts, some for piece of mind who have never bought before would likely prefer UK CS and purchase So Woosh have one kit competitor who sells a 48v 250w kit , buyers have a choice and if they are happy with the cheaper...

Nearly £393 for a similar 48v spec , not quite the £300 though. For UK price one still ahe the more local CS and easier return as well ( for some ) a 250w rating for the motor .

Would that be a 768wh 48v battery to compare chips with chips . Comparisons need to be pretty much exact including p&p, etc etc.