Yosepower hub kits.
- Thread starter Nealh
- Start date
Looks like you were right and the OP had the same firmware as documented in your user manual. It's strange that different firmware versions differ so greatly. I'm currently awaiting another batch of KT-LCD4 displays from a new supplier, so it will be interesting to see what firmware they come loaded with. I certainly hope they follow the regular KT schema.
How much do you get the lcd4 for? For me a much better solution than the massive lcd3
For single quantities, Aliexpress is your best bet for the lowest possible price. I will not have a firm cost for my own stock until I have worked out my own tax liabilities on it. I hope to be able to offer a lower price than the currently listed price on my own listings, once the shipment has landed.
Hey danielrlee are you trade? I will check out that website. I really did like the LCD4 however having the control buttons on the unit was deal breaker for me, shame really an extended button setup like the LCD3 would have been nice to see.
That's why the LCD4 doesn't have a separate button pad because other LCD's have this covered, the LCD4 is for small compactness that takes up little space.
I am indeed in the trade, although I am not currently a registered trade member on pedelecs forum. As a result, I have to be careful not to overstep the mark and be sure to act within the forum rules. As a non-trade member, I am not allowed to actively promote my business, nor am I able to tout for new business on pedelecs forum.
I was more thinking, compact LCD in the middle of the handlebar and the even more compact control buttons movable to the riders desired location, the LCD4 imo defeats the objection of "compact" as the whole unit has to be located within reach, ergo a less "compact" control system. Yet again I suppose it boils down to personal preference.
Just bought one of these kits to convert an old Giant GSR mountain bike. 26” wheel rear hub motor for cassette hub.
My motor is marked 36EW-G27C H20052204.
Can anyone tell me which winding code this is? I.e., what the no-load speed would be at 36V?
My motor is marked 36EW-G27C H20052204.
Can anyone tell me which winding code this is? I.e., what the no-load speed would be at 36V?
^ Hi, I can't answer the question but if anyone wants to decode these, my hub (36v rear cassette bought 3 months ago) reads: 36EW-G27C H20010219.
Thanks for this! Looks like the first part of the code is the same. Do you know what your no-load speed is?
Also how have you been finding the kit in general? Any issues to report?
Hi. The Yose kits seem to come with either KT or Lishui electronics, comparisons & my no-load results etc
www.pedelecs.co.uk
Notes about my conversion
www.pedelecs.co.uk
Help! - Lishui controller and LCD vs KT controller and LCD
I have got a 26" yose power hub with KTController and LCD 3 (my wifes bike) and have recently ordered a 28"700c yosepower hub ( for me) with a Lishui controller and a a LCD that goes with it, Does anyone have experience with the Lishui controller and lcd kit
www.pedelecs.co.uk
Notes about my conversion
Yose 350 rear hub kit - onto Spanish mtb by Mondraker
Background info about these kits (thanks to Nealh & others) see https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/yosepower-hub-kits.30061/
www.pedelecs.co.uk
That’s great thank you.
It looks like my kit came with a Lishui controller.
Did you ever try swapping to a KT controller and LCD? Is that just a straight swap in theory?
The older cst kits were about 290rpm, since then It appears they may now be higher torque and about 205 rpm.
.
Sounds ideal if that’s the case - I’m in the middle of the Surrey Hills!
Do you have any recommendations for lever-type shifters? The current ones on the bike are combined brake/gear units.
My touring ebike has Shimano combined hydraulic brakes/shifters, and find them excellent. No pressure on the thumbs and a simple notch up or down with the fingers to change gearing.
Did you take the switches out of the Yose brakes and attach them to your existing ones?
Mines got cable brakes right now - V at the back and disc at the front. Wondering whether to swap the switches or to just buy separate shifters & use the Yose brakes.
One only needs to use one brake cut out, I use the rear brake as it leaves the right hand/arm free for turning/indicating if needed and able to cut power if needed with the rear.
Yes carefully remove the cable sensor from the lever, epoxy the sensor head to the front of the brake body ( I find Gorilla very good sets in a about 3 - 5 mins but does need to be left over night to completely cure), on the lever I epoxy a small L shaped piece of 1 or 2mm ali to keep the sensor plunger held in when in use.
An elastic band or cable tie, etc ,etc can be used to hold all in place until cured.
Depending on the lever design used, the moulded Julet type connector can care fully push through the hole in the old lever housing. The small plastic retaining threaded nut may need carefully cutting off.
Yes carefully remove the cable sensor from the lever, epoxy the sensor head to the front of the brake body ( I find Gorilla very good sets in a about 3 - 5 mins but does need to be left over night to completely cure), on the lever I epoxy a small L shaped piece of 1 or 2mm ali to keep the sensor plunger held in when in use.
An elastic band or cable tie, etc ,etc can be used to hold all in place until cured.
Depending on the lever design used, the moulded Julet type connector can care fully push through the hole in the old lever housing. The small plastic retaining threaded nut may need carefully cutting off.
Hi, I've been told the controller and display need to be swapped as a pair (both KT or both Lishui) matching harness is also needed. I have a controller & harness on their way to me but no
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Great stuff, be interested to know how you get on. Which controller/LCD did you go for?
When you say ‘harness’, do you mean the 4-to-1 cable?
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