^ Hi, yes the 4-into cable.
Oops typo - it's the lcd I've not found yet. The KT lcd3 seems popular.
Oops typo - it's the lcd I've not found yet. The KT lcd3 seems popular.
Yosepower hub kits.
- Thread starter Nealh
- Start date
I have converted my lishui controlled yosepower kit to KT controller and LCD3 and 1 to4 wiring harness, it works but I need the best C or P parameter for the PAS sensor, it is a bit fast and harsh-ish when it kicks in, but I am extremely happy with the result so far, in my opinion my wifes bike that was KT controlled was always nicer than my lishui bike in the way it worked, but if you are happy with your lishui setup , its not bad at all , just the lower PAS settings for me were limiting but 3 4 and 5 were ok , it also seemed to use a bit more battery than my wifes bike but that may be because the 26 inchwheel is more efficient at transferring the power of the hub to the road than a 29 inch wheel?? , hope this helps you - if you are happy stick to the lishui setup, it doesnt make that much difference, the cost of the controller and LCD and harness, is not insignificant or cheap,
I had shimano Hydraulic rear discs, and just replaced it with a shimano cable disc caliper and used the yose levers, on the bar right bar I have shimano revoshift selector and, Yose throttle and yose brake lever, on the left i have shimano hydralic lever Yose LCD selector switch and the shimano trigger shifter, I replaced the shimano trigger shifter on the right bsr because there were too many triggers and throttle lever there, now its much neater and user friendly
We use our bikes for exploring off road here in the Azores, where the islands are volcanic so they spend a LOT of time climbing, having lived in Surrey, the hills wont give you problems, the mirrors are a new addition for us because with the noise of the wind and the motors - cars sneak up on us and the roads here are narrow shared with big trucks, pickups and cars
Hi Vfr400
P3 is set to1, when I put the KT extras together the PAS wasnt recognized, the throttle worked but no PAS , the seller said to set C1 = 05 which recognized the PAS, but it seems to kick in a bit harshly
It was originally set to C1 = 02 and the pas wasnt recognized
Any ideas?,
For me the KT setup is better , i can pedal easily in PAS 1 + 2 without any resistance (no speed limit), but for someone that wants lots of assistance using PAS 3 4 5 and lots of throttle and go while not using PAS 1 and 2 maybe lishui would suit them
The display shows the power. With P3=1, you should get around 60w on level 1, which is not enough power to give you anything other than a docile start.
Tell us what power it shows when you get your harsh starts.
C1 try 06 & 07 setting as well as 05, the three values can give slightly different PAS feel.
Also C14 2 is default, 01 is weak & 03 strong signal so worth a try.
Other wise one could try a 8 or 10 pole disc's which will give a slightly slower pole count signal.
Also C14 2 is default, 01 is weak & 03 strong signal so worth a try.
Other wise one could try a 8 or 10 pole disc's which will give a slightly slower pole count signal.
Kit installed and running well. I’ve done 3 commutes on it so far, 7 mile round trip. Pretty much left it on PAS 3 and it’s been great.
I do think that the current control mode on the KT controllers would be nicer, considering the KT controller that fits the Hailong 52 cell case. Anything I should be aware of?
I guess I’ll also need the LCD-3 and the 4-to-1 harnesss.
I do think that the current control mode on the KT controllers would be nicer, considering the KT controller that fits the Hailong 52 cell case. Anything I should be aware of?
I guess I’ll also need the LCD-3 and the 4-to-1 harnesss.
I think my yose back wheel might be giving up soon. I have about 6000kms on the meter and have exchanged both controller and freehub once. Now I'm having clonks and vibrations coming from the back wheel when just free wheeling. The motorn runs smooth as when it was new but something is really starting to give up in the inners of the wheel. I have no experience opening these things up and giving it to a local shop would most likely cost more or less the same as a new wheel and motor.
I really like the rear hub with it's simplicity but if 6000kms is the limit for these kits I'd like to have something durable. Is bafang the only way to go if I want something more durable or are the rear hub kits more or less the same?
I really like the rear hub with it's simplicity but if 6000kms is the limit for these kits I'd like to have something durable. Is bafang the only way to go if I want something more durable or are the rear hub kits more or less the same?
6k is good without no issues up to now, it may just need a service. New bearings and a grease up, there isn't much else to wear or go wrong as long as water hasn't in-gressed inside. Clutch nylon gears can be inspected and even the clutch bearings are usually replaceable.
Two of my Bafang's needed replacement bearings at about 2k & 3k respectively but none since.
Two of my Bafang's needed replacement bearings at about 2k & 3k respectively but none since.
Any pointers of how I could do this myself? I've seen a couple of videos opening up and replacing bearings but not on a rear hub motor. I have only "high maintenance" bike places nearby and if they even were to take my DIY bike in, they would most definetley charge me for several hours worth of work.
Take the wheel off. It's always good to photograph the washer and nut arrangement so that you can put them back the same. Take all nuts off the axle. Undo the 6 side-plate screws and tap the opposite end of the axle with a mallet to separate the motor core from the hub.
If you can't get at the 6 screws because of the bottom gear, you have to remove the gear cluster first with a freewheel tool if it's a freewheel motor or a cassette tool if it has the cassette spine.
If the sideplate won't separate from the axle, rest the edges on two blocks and tap the axle through with a mallet.
When you tap the axle with the mallet hold the wire at right angles well into its slot so you don't hit it with the mallet.
The whole operation takes about 5 minutes. Once open, you'll see what's causing your problem.
If you can't get at the 6 screws because of the bottom gear, you have to remove the gear cluster first with a freewheel tool if it's a freewheel motor or a cassette tool if it has the cassette spine.
If the sideplate won't separate from the axle, rest the edges on two blocks and tap the axle through with a mallet.
When you tap the axle with the mallet hold the wire at right angles well into its slot so you don't hit it with the mallet.
The whole operation takes about 5 minutes. Once open, you'll see what's causing your problem.
When you have removed the six plates screws on the rhs also remove the LHS in board axle nut that keeps the end plate bearing seal in place, then you can tap it out if a bit tight.
Give all a good clean if grease is hard or feels gritty.
Check the gear cluster for worn bearings ensure rotation is smooth any roughness even slight replace sealed bearings or loose bearings.
Inside the hub there is one sealed bearing on the LHS motor case, rotate with fingers any roughness replace. All bearings are about £1 - £5, use a socket as a drift and knock it out( I use a rubber mallet).
Sealed bearings have number imprinted/embossed on them , something like 6002rs or similar.
Under the clutch there is a 50/60mm dia centre sealed bearing again check this for rotation, check the three gears and bearing on the clutch any damage or worn nylon gears will need replacing.
Post pics if you need help.
Give all a good clean if grease is hard or feels gritty.
Check the gear cluster for worn bearings ensure rotation is smooth any roughness even slight replace sealed bearings or loose bearings.
Inside the hub there is one sealed bearing on the LHS motor case, rotate with fingers any roughness replace. All bearings are about £1 - £5, use a socket as a drift and knock it out( I use a rubber mallet).
Sealed bearings have number imprinted/embossed on them , something like 6002rs or similar.
Under the clutch there is a 50/60mm dia centre sealed bearing again check this for rotation, check the three gears and bearing on the clutch any damage or worn nylon gears will need replacing.
Post pics if you need help.
A big thank you to you both! I had no idea it was this easy
the main bearing on the housing was totally shot. The nylon gears looked almost like new and the grease wasn't hard or anything?On another note, I changed the freehub like 1000km ago, the bearing in this one are already a bit worn. An skf bearing would cost me almost 30£! That's twice the cost for the whole thing
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