Yosepower hub kits.

[PC2017]

It doesn't.

Haha, how would you explain the smooth running of me YOSE motor and this controller you mention that detects motor characteristics, where would I purchase one and do they make one that has Julet connectors, saving me the trouble or rigging up some converter connectors??

 

[Nealh]

My Yose hub (now retired for now) has worked with three KT controllers and phase C2 /0 has always been the default quiet and correct setting, I have tried some other settings and it certainly alters phase combo's for the worse.

 

[Olleman]

A while back I wrote about intermittent "freezes" and after some back and forth with Yose they agreed to send me a new controller.

Well, last wednsday the problem got worse and I still hadn't got my replacement controller so I took it apart. Blew a bit of air over the circuit board as I could see some tiny particles in there. Also fixed some solderings that looked suspicious. It has now worked for a week. I'm not 100% positive that the problem went away but it looks really good.

Today the replacement controller arrived via TNT. We've had some miscomunication so when they actually sent it, it got here from China in like 4 days and I didn't even have to pay custom fees Credits to Yosepower for great service!

The new controller is physically bigger than the last one in both depth and width. It's also rated 8/17 AMPS in comparison to the old one which is rated 7/15. I did notice 60-70 more watts on the meter (~520W with a battery at voltage 38V). However the old controller had the shunt mod and definetley had more power.

Does anybody know the difference between these controllers? The new one feels more sturdy and also heavier. When I meassured my shunt mod on the old controller I could see 19-20 AMPS at peak load with an AMP meter. I'm thinking that the new one could perhaps be moded to ~22 AMPS. What do you think?

,Olle

 

[vfr400]

Isn't it a KT controller? You can normally shift the current up and down a bit in the software.

 

[Olleman]

I would imagine that the current is set to maximum since that seems to be default.

It is a kt controller with Juliet cables only bigger. Name is KT36ZWSRTD-EP01

 

[PC2017]

They might have realised that the small kit controller wasn't up to scratch for the 350w motor, as I assumed. I am starting to feel a tad vindicated.

Edit: how many MOSFET'S out of curiosity?

 

[Olleman]

Well, if it turns out that my old controller just had some bad solderings, I'm quite happy with it since I've done 2000 mile with it modded to ~20A. To be honest I only use max power for short bursts but still...

It's difficult to find dimensions for 15/17/20/22 rated controllers but 17 and 20 both have 6 mosfets. Chances are that they are the same , but with different shunts. It shouldn't be a problem to make a shunt mod for 20A or perhaps even more for these short bursts...

 

[Nealh]

Well, if it turns out that my old controller just had some bad solderings, I'm quite happy with it since I've done 2000 mile with it modded to ~20A. To be honest I only use max power for short bursts but still.....

What do you mean by 'freezes' with the old controller ?

They can and do get very hot on full power (pas 5) and thermal cut out occurs when the fets get above there optimal heat range, once cooled down the system can be reset. I have never had this with my dual voltage 20 amp 6 fet one on my Norco but have on my Boardman touring so upgraded to a 9 fet KT which is 25a and has no issues.

 

[Olleman]

This is from my original post from page 57 in this thread.

Has anybody experienced intermittent problems with the electronics? Ever since this summer I have this occasional "freeze" where everything in the display just freezes (speed, wattage etc) and assistance is turned of. Neither PAS nor throttle will work during this time. After about 10-20 seconds it resumes and everything is as usual. Sometimes it happens several times within minutes and other times I can bike for hours between occasions. It's not realated to the amount of power I use I've had this happen at every PAS level.

I have contacted yose about this but they want me to test several things when this happens and since it's very intermittent it takes ages to get this sorted. I have tried changing the PAS and that won't change anything. Seems to me that there's something wrong with the controller.

Don't know if this is related but I did use full throttle uphill for several minutes during the summer and this exact thing happened. I assumed it was overheated and after a while everything went back to normal. Perhaps something got overheated and slightly damaged

 

[vfr400]

Different versions of the LCD have different software in them, and they adjust the max current in different ways through C5 values 0 to 10. Some allow from -5A to +5A from the label current, others have a multiplyer (or divider). You should try values 0 and 10 to see what yours does before soldering the shunt.

 

[Olleman]

Acidently put these kind of spacers (that came with the kit) on the outside of the dropouts and it seems that I have less vibration this way. But surely they should be on the inside, correct?

 

[PC2017]

One US dude on youtube, back when I first started my research a few years ago, stated these go on the inside then change his mind on another video, I have had them on the inside as internal spacers if they were needed and outside if not or if it was hard to install the wheel, as long as you check to see if they do the job as anti-rotational washers then either should be fine or one inside one outside if doable... I think mine are on the outside for my 350w yose if not I will post a correction here tomorrow!

 

[vfr400]

What are those parts? I've never seen anything like that before. They can't be anti-rotation washers because there's no flats for the axle.

 

[Olleman]

My bad, I just took a picture from the internet. The ones that come with the kit have flats.

 

[Sturmey]

Hi. My rear dropout was (old?) 130mm when I fitted a rear freewheel type 350w with six speed freewheel and the thrust washer on the outside. However, I did fashion an m10 washer into an oval m12 X 10 with round file and put on the inside between the axle shoulder and the alloy dropout. The reason I did this is that there is only a small axle 'shoulder' between the threaded part and the plain unthreaded part of hub motor axle and this could bit into the softer alloy when tightening up the wheel if steel washer is not fitted. Also the dropout may be weaker on freewheel side due to way the steel hanger is fitted to alloy.
For this reason,It would be better to fit thrust washer on inside, but in my case it saved me spreading the alloy frame.

 

[PC2017]

My bad

I got what you was aiming for Olleman! The picture was for illustration purposes only lol...

small axle 'shoulder'

I have noticed that some bikes have deep dropouts and some, like mine are shallow, however I fitted a make shift t-arm I hardly believe it would help torque wise but it add an extra fail safe and so far I have not seen any damage or wear to the dropouts and the wheels been out a few times, darn punctures I didn't have one puncture in the first year of ebiking.

 

[Sturmey]

PS. The freewheel version needs some type of washer (preferably the thrust washer)at shoulder as shown below or axle could push through alloy dropout. (imo)

 

[vfr400]

It makes no practical difference whether you put them on the inside or outside. You can put them where you want to suit the spacing and wheel alignment as long as nothing rubs on the frame/forks or disc caliper. The only important thing is that they must be fitted unless you have an alternative method of preventing the axle from rotating.

 

[Olleman]

Ok, I'll leave it as it is for now.

Have been biking with the replacement controller yosepower sent me. I also measured it to be quite accurate at 17A at peak. My modded 15A controller delivered 19.75A. I sure miss those amps but for now I'm gonna leave it unmodded to make sure that my freezing problems aren't related to any other components of the kit.

 

[tunznath]

Ok sorry to jump in here am rereading this thread as I am awaiting a yosepower 36v 350 hub and bits to build batteries, saw this from
................my question at tbe end...................
Nealh
Esteemed Pedelecer

Jan 4, 2018

• #44

Hall sensor wiring 8 or 9 /wires = sinewave
No hall sensor 3 wires only = square wave.

Both controllers are hall sensor & sine wave both give quieter smother operation the only difference is 15a one is for 36v though can be used up to 12s with max 4.15v max cell charge to be on the safe side 4.1v, it has waterproof easy fit wiring.
17a version is a dual voltage model so can be used with 36 or 48v even to the point of using trying up to 15s to a point if so wished.

If the requirement is to use 36v and in need of a few more amps/watts then a simple shunt mod on the 15a controller can increase power output by another 25 or 30% if required.

................MY QUESTION IS ............
What if Ibuilt a 12s (or 11s or13s ) Battery what would that do to the whole setup, just throwing this in here as I am also new to lithium batteries, though a friend has more experience, maybe its not even possible or worthwile??, ok back to rereading 3rd time around
thanks in advance