xiongda questions

D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
The rivnuts are easy enough to install. Even if you have bottle mounts, you should still put in an extra one so that you have three screws holding the battery. That video makes it look too complicated. I just drilled the hole, tapped the rivnut in and did up the screw tight to compress the rivet. That's it - no special tools or procedures, but make sure the hole is the right size so that the rivnut is tight enough to require tapping down.

Controllers calculate the current flowing from the battery to the motor by measuring the voltage drop across a very low value resisistor, typically about 0.005 to 0.01 Ohms. There's two types of shunt: solid state ones and wire ones. The wire ones look like about an inch of coat-hanger wire, and are often located behind the end-plate of the controller, so can be accessed easily. Most Lishui controllers have the shunt lying along the PCB under the main capacitor, so if you've ordered the Lishui, you'd probably have to dismantle the controller to get to it.

If you add solder to the shunt, you reduce its resisistance, so you get less voltage drop and the cpu thinks the current is lower than it is. It therefore allows higher current. Adding solder is best done when you have a wattmeter connected so that you can see what the new maximum current is.

If you have a solid state shunt, you can change its value by soldering a similar one over the top of it. Let's say you have a single .010 ohm one. By adding a .020 over the top, you end up with ,0067 ohms, which will give a 33% increase in current. Adding a 0.030 will give 0.075 ohms, which is a 25% increase.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

handbaked

Pedelecer
Feb 27, 2015
166
15
So I have just been told this by bonnie

" Yes,Lishui is a sine wave controller. Rated 7A.


For the lishui and bigstone combo, 1 to 5 assistant level is the same as high gear, "L" is for low gear."

I thought someone on here had said it was a 15a controller?

Also she is asking what length cable I need for the motor. I guess this is the length I need to reach the controller? Where do you guys normally store the controller on your bikes? I was thinking maybe a small saddle bag?
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
7A is the rating (average). The maximum is normally double the rating.

I'm not convinced that Bonnie knows what she's talking about. The story keeps changing. My 48v controller works as she describes, with level 6 as low gear selector. Yona told me that there is no 48v Lishui sine-wave controller. The guys on ES say that they have Lishui controllers with the HAL gear selector switch. I'm pretty sure that my 48v one is from KT because it has similar markings to another KT that I have.
 

handbaked

Pedelecer
Feb 27, 2015
166
15
Exactly what I was thinking. So I need a cable length long enough from rear drop out to seat. Got it. Thanks!
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
The motor comes with a cable longer than that, so you have to hide the surplus in the bag too. Use a soldering iron to melt a hole in the front corner of the bag big enough to get all the wires through. You don't have to worry about water getting in. It never does for some reason. I guess it's shielded by the rider.
 

1boris

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 10, 2013
344
58
Did I mention my motor sometimes got hot?
This was after a long off road hill at 10 khm
xiongda.jpg

At this point I would choose Bafang Bpm over Xiongda no doubt.Especially if you are heavy.I have also had problem with the high speed gear slipping since day one.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Did it overheat in low gear or did you leave it in high gear?
 

1boris

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 10, 2013
344
58
I had it in low gear all the time.The hills was to steep to climb in High gear.The motor was not hot at all outside.But this motor have had 03 error in the display for a long time now.The 03 error(hall sensor problem) only happen on long trips.And goes away when motor has been cooling down for a while,even if it doesent feel very hot.The other times the 03 error came,the motor/display turned off.If I turned it on before some cooling time the motor just had half power.I belive one phase was out.
It has been hot,but touchable when it was new,but now I make sure to peadal more.This time the motor was not ok after cooling down.So i opened it.But generally I feel the motor gets hotter in the high speed gear .But I do not use high speed gear under 15 kmh.
This could maybe be my own fault because I shunted it.The Lcd3 display shows max 700w.But maybe that is wrong and I actually have 800-900w? does soldering the shunt mess up the correct reading on the lcd3 wattmeter?
 
Last edited:
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Mine was shunted to 20A and I took it up our mighty Lincoln hill, which is about a mile long and reaches 31% on the steepest bit. My speed went below 6km/h, but the motor kept pulling strongly. 03 is a hall sensor error. The legs are very delicate and run close to the rotor. Is it possible one was shorting causing timing errors, which then caused the overheating?
 

1boris

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 10, 2013
344
58
Yes,I think that is possible.And I hope that was the reason because I really liked this motor.Especially the low gear for longer climbs.
 

mutmost

Pedelecer
Jun 24, 2009
62
0
I am interested in building up a new bike to replace my direct drive 500W 36V mainly due to age of the motor visible size and needing a new battery soon.

On relatively flat terrain what is the stock performance at 36v?, I intend to pedal as I do today and typically trip along around 20mph (I have a resistor in the signal wire giving a no load speed of 24 mph against the WOT of 27mph).

I am thinking of this kit with either a whoosh or eclipse battery.

Thanks
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
The 36v one does about 12 mph and 20 mph in the two gears. The 48v goes a bit faster, but it depends which version you have. One does 22mph and the other 19 mph. You can run the 36v one at 48v to get a 33% speed increase, but you then lose some of the climbing efficiency, and efficiency will suffer a bit in high gear too like it will with any small motor run at high speed.
 

trex

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 15, 2011
7,703
2,671
I am interested in building up a new bike to replace my direct drive 500W 36V mainly due to age of the motor visible size and needing a new battery soon.

On relatively flat terrain what is the stock performance at 36v?, I intend to pedal as I do today and typically trip along around 20mph (I have a resistor in the signal wire giving a no load speed of 24 mph against the WOT of 27mph).

I am thinking of this kit with either a whoosh or eclipse battery.

Thanks
I'd replace your 500W DD motor with a BBS02 25A 500W crank drive using your current battery. Job done in an hour. That motor will climb hills like a goat.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
I'd replace your 500W DD motor with a BBS02 25A 500W crank drive using your current battery. Job done in an hour. That motor will climb hills like a goat.
Of course it will with 25A, so will any motor. I guess the reason He wants to change to a Xiongda is because it climb like a goat with only 10A.
 

D8ve

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jan 30, 2013
2,142
1,294
Bristol
But D8veh its a fake. You've told us often enough that new hub motors can climb any hill not like those crummy crank drives...
It's obviously a fix it must be a bust mid motor in the picture.

And the gears mean mid motors can climb hills at lower speed if you spin the pedals.
No pedalling no go. But isn't that true of bicycles not motor bikes.
 

trex

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 15, 2011
7,703
2,671
I've been looking at hub motors that exceed the capabilities of the present BBS02 25A 36V 500W and suitable for riding forest trails. None of these hubs weighs less than the BBS02 and none of them can be built into an efficient e-bike, one that can be easily opened and maintained, does not wreck your spokes, has a good weight distribution, is quiet etc.