Woosh CD Sport Disc Brakes
- Thread starter denwyn
- Start date
many thanks d8veh and trex, let's hope I haven't damaged anything by doing 15 miles before doing this this morning. I've done it now and the front wheel runs more or less freely - no friction one could really consider noticeable, but there is an ever so slight noise - a bit like a diminutive version of what one hears when spinning a car's front wheel. I imagine that's just the way it is?
D
Deleted member 4366
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They nearly always make a noise as if they're just touching. It's the same as a motorbike or car. Unlike a cable disc, there's no spring to pull the caliper apart. There's no noticeable drag from them though when you're riding.
Just fitted my Deore M615 hydraulic front disc brake in lieu of the Zoom mechanical.
My thoughts:
What's in the package?
It arrived sooner than expected in a polythene bag (Why is it when you buy something like this from a shop, it is generally well packed in cardboard, blister pack or carton, but when bought on line it often isn't?)
A secondary smaller bag contained some mysterious yellow plastic things and some olives and bits and pieces and 2 black painted fixing bolts which I immediately decided not to use on account of potential rusting. The original were higher quality plated so I used those.
It came with a "manual" which told you loads of useless stuff but not actually how to fix it! It made a vague reference to another "manual" on line which proved to be hardly any more help, unless you were into bleeding.
It came all connected up, and I was little nervous that any minor knocks might cause a potential leak so I proceeded carefully. I noted that the pads where secured by a spilt pin, which was a little crude compared to the Zoom arrangement, (and I hope its stainless steel)
Fitting
Easy. Off with the old remembering to disconnect the brake sensor and sealing carefully the exposed connector in case I need it again. No cutting needed on my large Santana CD. Route the hydraulic pipe carefully and tie wrap to one of the many other cables available. On with the calliper leaving the mounting bolts slightly loose. Fasten with rubber band the bar lever to ensure pads in contact with rotor. Carefully tighten a slight amount each mounting bolt one after the other until all tight.
First reaction
Lever comes very close to bars when applied. Is it a bit spongy? No use referring to the "manuals" unless they need bleeding. Google eventually points me in the direction of a bolt I need to adjust to move the lever further away from the bars. A bit of contact in one position when turning the wheel. Hopefully this will soon go. Job done!
First short ride around the block
Very impressed, and after 2 miles the pads already seem to have quietened down a bit. The control and power are excellent compared to the Zoom.
First conclusion
Apart from the fact that the lever looks very different from the existing rear brake, and the rather low tech split pin arrangement, I can't find any minus points. Lets hope that's still the case in a years time. For £34 it's money well spent. Anything which adds to my riding confidence has got to be a good thing, so for that reason alone I recommend this upgrade.
Thanks to all the tippers on this thread
My thoughts:
What's in the package?
It arrived sooner than expected in a polythene bag (Why is it when you buy something like this from a shop, it is generally well packed in cardboard, blister pack or carton, but when bought on line it often isn't?)
A secondary smaller bag contained some mysterious yellow plastic things and some olives and bits and pieces and 2 black painted fixing bolts which I immediately decided not to use on account of potential rusting. The original were higher quality plated so I used those.
It came with a "manual" which told you loads of useless stuff but not actually how to fix it! It made a vague reference to another "manual" on line which proved to be hardly any more help, unless you were into bleeding.
It came all connected up, and I was little nervous that any minor knocks might cause a potential leak so I proceeded carefully. I noted that the pads where secured by a spilt pin, which was a little crude compared to the Zoom arrangement, (and I hope its stainless steel)
Fitting
Easy. Off with the old remembering to disconnect the brake sensor and sealing carefully the exposed connector in case I need it again. No cutting needed on my large Santana CD. Route the hydraulic pipe carefully and tie wrap to one of the many other cables available. On with the calliper leaving the mounting bolts slightly loose. Fasten with rubber band the bar lever to ensure pads in contact with rotor. Carefully tighten a slight amount each mounting bolt one after the other until all tight.
First reaction
Lever comes very close to bars when applied. Is it a bit spongy? No use referring to the "manuals" unless they need bleeding. Google eventually points me in the direction of a bolt I need to adjust to move the lever further away from the bars. A bit of contact in one position when turning the wheel. Hopefully this will soon go. Job done!
First short ride around the block
Very impressed, and after 2 miles the pads already seem to have quietened down a bit. The control and power are excellent compared to the Zoom.
First conclusion
Apart from the fact that the lever looks very different from the existing rear brake, and the rather low tech split pin arrangement, I can't find any minus points. Lets hope that's still the case in a years time. For £34 it's money well spent. Anything which adds to my riding confidence has got to be a good thing, so for that reason alone I recommend this upgrade.
Thanks to all the tippers on this thread
Placcy things could be brake pad spacers presumably to drop into the caliper so when you have a wheel out to stop the braking action and pistons pushing out if you inadvertently applied the brake lever. I scratched my head when I got some with my KTM.
helpful detailed review - as a complete newbie to disc brakes (and someone who tends to plough in and do things and sometimes read the manual later..)i think one very useful thing is to keep all teh bolts fixing the calliper loose as one applies teh brake to centre it before tightening - i just loosened the lateral ones and still have a graunching noise when applying teh brakes very hard - which may be down to the other bolts. the adidtional plastic stuff completely defies logic (seem too large to be of any purpose)
You are right re the entering of the bolts. I did it twice. First time and there was a bit of rotor contact at just one position so I redid it with the wheel in that specific position. My thinking was at least it won't contact in that position again and so hopefully won't for the rest of the movement. Is was better, and a short run seemed to confirm just slight contact which should go soon.
So what are those mysterious yellow blocks? Something to do with fitting to larger rotors perhaps?
Almost certainly they are to stuff between the pads when you take the wheel out to prevent the pads closing.
Quite handy, although a bit of folded cereal packet will do the same job.
Some of them also function as pad wear indicators, although I've never grasped how - despite someone explaining it on here once.
D
Deleted member 4366
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Before the caliper is fitted (when new), or if you have to take the it off for whatever reason, if you accidentally touch the lever, the pistons will close together. If that happens, you can't get the caliper over the disc and it's very difficult to get the pistons back apart. You therefore need the plastic blocks between the pistons to prevent that happening.
Occasionally, I've had a sort of graunching/vibrating/rubbing noise when I apply new brakes. It always went away after some miles as the disc bedded in.
If your disc touches the pads in one place as the wheel rotates, it's because your disc is slightly out of true (bent). You can tease it straight with a pair of pliers.
Occasionally, I've had a sort of graunching/vibrating/rubbing noise when I apply new brakes. It always went away after some miles as the disc bedded in.
If your disc touches the pads in one place as the wheel rotates, it's because your disc is slightly out of true (bent). You can tease it straight with a pair of pliers.
Check out this mystery bag that contain the yellow blocks and other bits'
Size of 2x rectangular blocks =30 x 20 x 10
Overall size of other yellow plastic thing = 40 x 28 x 10
10mm seems to be the gap in the calliper without the pad but: -
Why 2 yellow blocks?
What's the other yellow block for?
What's the black thing, small bolt and the tie thingy for? (I'm guessing it's Shimano's accessories to tie up the whole thing when it's dismantled?)
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
The black bit is a snap ring/stop ring designed to fit over the caliper fixing bolt presumably so that if the bolt came loose it may prevent it from totally unscrewing and being lost.
Anyone's guess as to whether it would work or not.
Dave
Just as a bit of an aside to this excellent thread...
My bike has Hayes drybolic discs and the original pads wore very quickly, as did the replacements fro Uberbike on ebay; so I ordered sinterd pads as they are claimed to be longer-lasting with superior performance:
They were horrible - squealed (at dissonant frequencies too) like a couple of banshees with their tails caught in a door, and felt like metal to metal through the levers.
I'm back on the standard pads from Uberbike which are much nicer and quiet, and at about £11 a bikefull, it doesn't matter if they only last 1000 miles or so.
My bike has Hayes drybolic discs and the original pads wore very quickly, as did the replacements fro Uberbike on ebay; so I ordered sinterd pads as they are claimed to be longer-lasting with superior performance:
They were horrible - squealed (at dissonant frequencies too) like a couple of banshees with their tails caught in a door, and felt like metal to metal through the levers.
I'm back on the standard pads from Uberbike which are much nicer and quiet, and at about £11 a bikefull, it doesn't matter if they only last 1000 miles or so.