Wisper Wayfarer H7 review
- Thread starter Grebacwhite
- Start date
Hi David
Ours is a hub drive not a mid drive. The reason I'm asking is we want to buy a twin bike trailer to tow the boys around but we're struggling to find a trailer that fits with the bike. It only seems bike trailers work with quick release rear wheels which is really disappointing.
Ours is a hub drive not a mid drive. The reason I'm asking is we want to buy a twin bike trailer to tow the boys around but we're struggling to find a trailer that fits with the bike. It only seems bike trailers work with quick release rear wheels which is really disappointing.
Hi, sorry but it's not quick release on the hub drive version. I think there are trailers available that fit the seal post tube? I will have a look for you.
All the best, David
All the best, David
I found this after a quick search but it costs fortune!
tout terrain Singletrailer II Sport 24 Kids Trailer bc Edition
Notice Regarding Street Use: Trailers from tout terrain are intended for off-road use. For use in road traffic in Germany, they must be equipped with a lighting system in accordance with StVZO regulations. The prescribed components are not included i
www.bike-components.de
We have a Bike Hod trailer with seat post connection from around 35 years ago. I made a wooden seat to fit a couple of small kids that would unclip very simply. Fairly basic small wheels. I expect a mount from the chainstay rear axle is better, but ours never gave any any problems, and very quick to unhitch and hitch to a different bike without going near any dirty bits. Not suitable for heavy loads or significant distances, but great around a flattish town.
Us guys with rear hubs or internal gear hubs don't have a QR on the rear so fitting a trailer isn't an issue.
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There are two versions of the Wayfarer. The OP of ths thread is about the H7, which is the rear hub-motor version and the one you said your wife has. It has a bolted on axle, not quick release nor through axle. The M7 is the crank-drive version, which has a QR rear axle.
Thanks everyone.
Few more questions sorry. How easy is it to get the rear wheel off as it looks a right faff? It's a big heavy item on the Wayfarer. Just want to know for future reference as the Wisper manual doesn't explain how to remove the rear wheel.
Regarding trailers, so basically only a trailer that attaches to a seat post will work then essentially?
Few more questions sorry. How easy is it to get the rear wheel off as it looks a right faff? It's a big heavy item on the Wayfarer. Just want to know for future reference as the Wisper manual doesn't explain how to remove the rear wheel.
Regarding trailers, so basically only a trailer that attaches to a seat post will work then essentially?
You won’t be able to attach on the same side as the cable, but not knowing all the attachment methods I’m not sure, all I can be certain about is they will fit the seat post tube. Sorry I can’t be more help.
Do you have instructions as to how best to remove the rear wheel please just in the event of punctures etc?
There's no reason to take the rear wheel off. If you get a puncture, you fix it with the wheel still on the bike. Just pull the tire off one side, pull the tube out, find the puncture, patch it, then put it all back. It takes about 5 minutes.
If you find that you're getting too many punctures, change the tyres to Schwalbe Marathon Plus and never worry about them again.
Hi mate
Thanks for the information. That's interesting as it looks a real faff getting the wheel off, so is the wheel designed to permanently stay on the bike then?
I'm a bit disappointed in the lack of response on the rear wheel removal from Wisper themselves and also the lack of clear info in the technical manual that came with the bike.
Appreciate your help though with this.
Thanks for the information. That's interesting as it looks a real faff getting the wheel off, so is the wheel designed to permanently stay on the bike then?
I'm a bit disappointed in the lack of response on the rear wheel removal from Wisper themselves and also the lack of clear info in the technical manual that came with the bike.
Appreciate your help though with this.
It's pretty easy to to take the wheel off - just not necessary. To remove it, turn the bike upside down so that it rests on the saddle and handlebars. Put something soft underneath if you don't want scratches. Pull off any rubber caps on the axle, undo the nuts, disconnect the motor cable and lift the wheel out and unhook the chain. Don't try using any fancy bike stand because it's very difficult to get the motor back in when up the right way. When you put the motor back in, make sure that the cable exits downwards when finished, i.e towards the road when you sit on the bike.
Hi Crazy Legs, sorry that you are disappointed.
It’s not something that I remember being asked before.
1. Disconnect the motor cable at the connector by the rear wheel.
2. Loosen the axle bolts and take off the chain.
3. Take the wheel from the frame.
To put the wheel back on, simply reverse these instructions.
As Saneagle helpfully says above, you will find it easier if you turn the bike upside down first.
All the best, David
Thank you David for the advice regarding the wheel. I think it's something we need to practice on together in case we encounter a puncture.
Thanks David.
Thanks David.
Thanks CL!
FYI rear wheel removal is currently being written into all our manuals, so thanks for bringing this to my attention.
All the best, David
No worries, I did read the manual twice to make sure I hadn't missed anything but I definitely couldn't see anything there. That's good you're writing it into the manual now.
Cheers
Marc
Don't forget to include that the wire has to exit the axle downwards towards the road when you put the wheel back in.
Just an update as I had another pedelec post remind me of this, there is no motor cutoff switch/sensor on the brake levers. So pedal half a turn and the motor kicks in but stops after about 2 seconds, in that time only your brakes being applied quickly can stop the bike moving forward as there are no cutoff switches in the levers.
I've fitted a larger basket to ours now, girlfriend puts everything including the kitchen sink in it lol, odometer is around 800 miles after 3 1/2 years ownership.
Spoke nipples have corroded really badly within 18 months from new despite being kept in a dry car port and covered up with a bike cover, and acf50 anti-corrosion spray being used on them.
Same storage conditions for my Woosh Rambletta, after 3 1/2 years every spoke nipple on that bike is spotless....
I rode the Wayfarer 2 days ago, battery exceedingly good being the 43v 700ah size, a 12 mile commute and still showing 5/5 bar on the battery indicator, mostly ridden in tour mode averaging 13-14mph over that distance.
Here's a photo of it from my commute home.
I've fitted a larger basket to ours now, girlfriend puts everything including the kitchen sink in it lol, odometer is around 800 miles after 3 1/2 years ownership.
Spoke nipples have corroded really badly within 18 months from new despite being kept in a dry car port and covered up with a bike cover, and acf50 anti-corrosion spray being used on them.
Same storage conditions for my Woosh Rambletta, after 3 1/2 years every spoke nipple on that bike is spotless....
I rode the Wayfarer 2 days ago, battery exceedingly good being the 43v 700ah size, a 12 mile commute and still showing 5/5 bar on the battery indicator, mostly ridden in tour mode averaging 13-14mph over that distance.
Here's a photo of it from my commute home.
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If that's how it is, that's poor. I'd have expected better than that from Wisper. If they're listening, get your controllers sorted out Wisper. Run-on was something we had ten years ago and shouldn't be tolerated today. I can't understand why you importers accept it on any prototype, when it's immediately apparent during any test ride. It's mainly Lishui and other cheapo controllers that do it, and they also have stupid speed control that gives a terrible riding experience. Sort it out!
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