Hi, it's a quick release. That's on the Mid Drive.Quick question. Is the rear wheel a quick release or through axle on the Wayfarer?
All the best, David
Hi, it's a quick release. That's on the Mid Drive.Quick question. Is the rear wheel a quick release or through axle on the Wayfarer?
Hi, sorry but it's not quick release on the hub drive version. I think there are trailers available that fit the seal post tube? I will have a look for you.
All the best, David
There are two versions of the Wayfarer. The OP of ths thread is about the H7, which is the rear hub-motor version and the one you said your wife has. It has a bolted on axle, not quick release nor through axle. The M7 is the crank-drive version, which has a QR rear axle.Quick question. Is the rear wheel a quick release or through axle on the Wayfarer?
You won’t be able to attach on the same side as the cable, but not knowing all the attachment methods I’m not sure, all I can be certain about is they will fit the seat post tube. Sorry I can’t be more help.Thanks everyone.
Few more questions sorry. How easy is it to get the rear wheel off as it looks a right faff? It's a big heavy item on the Wayfarer. Just want to know for future reference as the Wisper manual doesn't explain how to remove the rear wheel.
Regarding trailers, so basically only a trailer that attaches to a seat post will work then essentially?
There's no reason to take the rear wheel off. If you get a puncture, you fix it with the wheel still on the bike. Just pull the tire off one side, pull the tube out, find the puncture, patch it, then put it all back. It takes about 5 minutes.Do you have instructions as to how best to remove the rear wheel please just in the event of punctures etc?
It's pretty easy to to take the wheel off - just not necessary. To remove it, turn the bike upside down so that it rests on the saddle and handlebars. Put something soft underneath if you don't want scratches. Pull off any rubber caps on the axle, undo the nuts, disconnect the motor cable and lift the wheel out and unhook the chain. Don't try using any fancy bike stand because it's very difficult to get the motor back in when up the right way. When you put the motor back in, make sure that the cable exits downwards when finished, i.e towards the road when you sit on the bike.Hi mate
Thanks for the information. That's interesting as it looks a real faff getting the wheel off, so is the wheel designed to permanently stay on the bike then?
I'm a bit disappointed in the lack of response on the rear wheel removal from Wisper themselves and also the lack of clear info in the technical manual that came with the bike.
Appreciate your help though with this.
Hi Crazy Legs, sorry that you are disappointed.Hi mate
Thanks for the information. That's interesting as it looks a real faff getting the wheel off, so is the wheel designed to permanently stay on the bike then?
I'm a bit disappointed in the lack of response on the rear wheel removal from Wisper themselves and also the lack of clear info in the technical manual that came with the bike.
Appreciate your help though with this.
Thanks CL!Thank you David for the advice regarding the wheel. I think it's something we need to practice on together in case we encounter a puncture.
Thanks David.
No worries, I did read the manual twice to make sure I hadn't missed anything but I definitely couldn't see anything there. That's good you're writing it into the manual now.Thanks CL!
FYI rear wheel removal is currently being written into all our manuals, so thanks for bringing this to my attention.
All the best, David
Don't forget to include that the wire has to exit the axle downwards towards the road when you put the wheel back in.Thanks CL!
FYI rear wheel removal is currently being written into all our manuals, so thanks for bringing this to my attention.
All the best, David
If that's how it is, that's poor. I'd have expected better than that from Wisper. If they're listening, get your controllers sorted out Wisper. Run-on was something we had ten years ago and shouldn't be tolerated today. I can't understand why you importers accept it on any prototype, when it's immediately apparent during any test ride. It's mainly Lishui and other cheapo controllers that do it, and they also have stupid speed control that gives a terrible riding experience. Sort it out!Just an update as I had another pedelec post remind me of this, there is no motor cutoff switch/sensor on the brake levers. So pedal half a turn and the motor kicks in but stops after about 2 seconds, in that time only your brakes being applied quickly can stop the bike moving forward as there are no cutoff switches in the levers.