Which Kit?

[John L]

That isn't normal. My 12 magnet single hall PAS kicks in as soon as the 2nd or 3rd magnet goes past the sensor so maximum 1/4 revolution.

Hmmm it does sound as if its not working right. I'll check it on the stand later. I think I recall you using c3=08?

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[anotherkiwi]

Not the same PAS, mine is the KUNTENG V12.

I mucked about looking for a setting that worked with the internal GSM PAS before I fried it (my fault, plugged into wrong plug on controller by accident). I couldn't find a setting that prevented the PAS from working in reverse as well as forwards. But it was dual HALL and worked on 07.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I couldn't find a setting that prevented the PAS from working in reverse as well as forwards. But it was dual HALL and worked on 07.

That's interesting. I put a new magnet disc on a Freego today. It had a very big one before that got broken, presumably by the chain coming off. There wasn't enough of it left to see how many magnets it had. The only one I had that size was the two-part ones with the big circlip around them and 12 magnets. That too worked in both directions, which I've never heard of before. Now we have it twice in one day! Luckily, I was able to use all my cunning, intelligence, smoke and mirrors and a fair portion of love to solve it. You'll never guess the answer. Bear in mind that this is an oldish Freego with a pretty dumb controller.



Here it is then, seeing as you couldn't guess: I removed every other magnet from the disc. After that it work perfectly in only the forward direction.

 

[John L]

Not the same PAS, mine is the KUNTENG V12.

I mucked about looking for a setting that worked with the internal GSM PAS before I fried it (my fault, plugged into wrong plug on controller by accident). I couldn't find a setting that prevented the PAS from working in reverse as well as forwards. But it was dual HALL and worked on 07.

The one I'm using is a KT V12L (left). Its a one piece unit. I haven't looked at it again. Ill check to make sure there's no loose wires etc.

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[anotherkiwi]

Have you tried 05, 06 and 07 settings?

 

[John L]

Not yet but I will in the morning. All locked away and battery on charge for a top up

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[John L]

I tried 06, 07, 08. None of them any better than 03. On the stand the 03 setting gives an intermittent burst of power. I'm sure that when I first set it up it wasn't like that.

Any ideas?

Beginning to think I should try the original 8 magnet PAS. I was trying to avoid the problem of securing the sensor on the left side.

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[anotherkiwi]

Did you try turning the pedals backwards too? I thought that mine was intermittent too but it was just spinning up to 25 km/h then cutting off

 

[John L]

Just went out to check that. Funny thing is that it seems to come on in bursts and then when it reaches over 20mph it comes on full. But when I tried it again it came as normal but the next time a tried it just gave short bursts. Very strange. I'll check the soldered connection just in case one has worked loose. Noticed a cable tie over the joint

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[John L]

Oh yeah nothing happened when I turned the petal backwards.

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[anotherkiwi]

Check your speed sensor connection while you are there too.

 

[John L]

I'm not sure I have a separate speed sensor? The controller has 3 outputs. 1 to the motor. 1 to the PAS and one to the lcd/throttle/break sensor.

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[Benjahmin]

Could it be the pas disc mounting? I have a Panda with the two part disc. It got knocked wonky on the shaft and would give a burst of power only when the disc face was closest to the sensor.

 

[John L]

Could it be the pas disc mounting? I have a Panda with the two part disc. It got knocked wonky on the shaft and would give a burst of power only when the disc face was closest to the sensor.

The PAS I'm using is a 1 piece unit where the sensor and the magnets are enclosed together. It is a bit of a squeeze on the bb tho. It might be too tight and getting jammed.

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[anotherkiwi]

The PAS I'm using is a 1 piece unit where the sensor and the magnets are enclosed together. It is a bit of a squeeze on the bb tho. It might be too tight and getting jammed.

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I think that might be it. Before I built my coffee can PAS disk the plastic one would work fine but eventually after rubbing the plastic would swell up with the heat generated by the friction and it would block completely.

 

[John L]

Thats probably it ok because I'm sure it was working fine when I first put it on. I'll give the 8 magnet disk a go.

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[John L]

Well I went back to the original 8 magnet 2 piece PAS and everything worked fine. I managed to bodge the Sensor on to the bike



Its only when I took the photo that I saw how much I had scratched the paintwork! Nothing too serious tho.

I think the bike looks pretty good. I had a triangular bag that I used to carry a lock etc.. and that takes the extra length of wire easily.



I went for an 18 mile spin and thankfully I felt pretty good and I enjoyed the ride. The PAS isn't quiet right yet tho. I set the C1 value to 02 which was the default setting but I now realise that this is for a 10 magnet sensor. As mine is 8 magnets I should have set it to 01. I think it will react even better with that setting.

Its great to look forward to going out on the bike again

 

[Benjahmin]

An effective bodge in the face of no other option, can be a very satisfying thing.
Happy cycling

 

[John L]

An effective bodge in the face of no other option, can be a very satisfying thing.
Happy cycling

Thanks. It was satisfying

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[Olly]

....I don't know if your brakes fit standard forks. Even if they're steel, they look a bit weak for a high power motor. They'd be alright with something like a Q100 or any 36v motor run at 15 amps....

Eventually I learned that in my situation it would be impossible to bring in the Bafang middrive as it’s chain drive was too broad to get it fitted.

Thinking over my particular situation (I like to pedal and I like a light weight bike too) I concluded that for my purpose a small sized motor front hub motor could be satisfying. It also would prevent me from making too much changes on my bike. A front hub Q100H could fit to that need. I also learned that the steel forks I have, should be strong enough to work with a Q100H motor.

As I don’t want to solder and as I don’t want to have a separate controller on my bike, I like to buy my combined set at BMSBattery.

I have two sets in mind:

OPTION 1

Q100H 36V350W Front Driving EBike Hub Motor 260RPM

36V14.5Ah Case-02 Panasonic Battery Pack (18A sin wave controller)

A Pair of EBike Torque Arm M12

Thumb Level Throttle without Handle

Dual Hall Sensor 12 Signals Easy Assembling PAS

S-LCD6 LCD Meter for S-Series Controllers or S-LCD3 LCD Meter for S-Series Controllers


OPTION 2

Q100H 36V350W Front Driving EBike Hub Motor 201RPM

48V11.6Ah Bottle-09 Panasonic Battery Pack (20A sin wave controller)

A Pair of EBike Torque Arm M12

Thumb Level Throttle without Handle

Dual Hall Sensor 12 Signals Easy Assembling PAS

S-LCD6 LCD Meter for S-Series Controllers or S-LCD3 LCD Meter for S-Series Controllers


From one hand I like to go for the overvolted option having more power and torque, which will keep the speed higher on hills. Elsewhere it was written that the Q100H would take up to 22 A instead of 17 A from the controller. Despite that, I’m worried about the lifespan of that overvolted configuration and the risk for burning out. No problem to pedal too (making possible larger distances) but how about the minimum required speed of the overvolted version compared to the standard version?

Your advice is appreciated.