Which kit is best for me?

[Agelos]

Hello all!

I want to convert my GT Avalance 1.0 bike. I am more than 30 years into cycling but I am completely clueless in electric bikes. I will use this bike only for commuting to work. (I am into road cycling for recreation). This is a total distance of less than 20km in the very centre of Athens, Greece with very high temperatures and quite some hilly parts. I don't need to go fast, just to reach work dry (from sweat). I also don't like the heavy feelling of some electric bikes I tested, I like agility and lightness on a bike. I weight 76kg. I am average in mechanical skills - below average in electric stuff, but I like diy. On the other hand I don't have much free time, so I checked first the ready kits. The only one that attracted my attention is the OXYDRIVE kit that I can get here for 950 euros fitted and with 18 months guarranty. (12 months for the battery). The thing is that it is quite expensive and I am sure that I can find something similar for much less a price. I like the bottle shaped battery, front wheel motor and the less possible connections/wires, but I am open to suggestions. Any help will be much appreciated.

 

[trex]

Alternatively, there is the £200 Cyclotricity e-kit:
http://www.cyclotricity.com/products-page/

You will need to add the LCD (£100) and a 7AH seat post battery (£199) or a 9AH bottle battery (£249), total £500-550.

or the £499 Woosh CST kit:
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/conversion-kits/rear-cst-kit/
http://wooshbikes.co.uk

The Cyclotricity kit goes to the front wheel, the Woosh CST kit goes to the rear wheel.
I think rear hub motor gives better handling and acceleration.

 

[Alan Quay]

Have you looked at BMS battery? You should be able to get a kit with 10ah battery, delivered for around 500-600 euros, although you won't get a warranty.

There's plenty of experience people on here that will be able to help you if you get trouble.

 

[trex]

if agelos wants to spend around £500 on a kit, there is no saving in buying from BMSBATTERY, buy a Woosh CST kit. The 15AH Samsung battery and charger inside the kit is worth £350 alone.

 

[Alan Quay]

Yes, but does that price include delivery to Greece? I was simply offering it as an alternative.

 

[trex]

Parcel delivery to Greece is about £20, check ebay delivery service.
Interlink can handle batteries. £30
http://www.interlinkdirect.co.uk/parcel-delivery-courier-greece.jsp

 

[Agelos]

Thanks for the info. Need to some research now... I had the impression that the front wheel motor is better because it combines aslo the power from the rear while pedaling. I also think that the battery of the woosh kit does not fot my frame, but I need to take proper measures to be sure...

 

[trex]

angelos, you can see all the kits sold by advertisers on this forum here:

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/buy/electric-bike-kit-directory/

 

[Agelos]

An option from BMSBattery:
http://www.bmsbattery.com/ebike-kits/632-250w350w-q-85100sx-motor-e-bike-kit.html
http://www.bmsbattery.com/36v/676-bottle-ebike-battery.html
http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/668-36v-s06p-integrated-controller-for-new-bottle-case.html
http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/548-s-led770-e-bike-led-meter.html
or
http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/670-s-led770-e-bike-led-meter.html
http://www.bmsbattery.com/ebike-parts/504-pas-pulse-padel-assistant-sensor.html
http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/661-s-led770-e-bike-led-meter.html
What do you think? Anything better there? Are these components compatible? Anything missing?

 

[trex]

they are good kits. d8veh is specialist on all things from bmsbattery.
the Q100H 36V350W delivers 50% more power than the Cyclotricity e-kit which uses the XF07, about the same power as the £550 Woosh Big Bear front kit. The 11.6AH bottle battery from BMSbattery requires the same space for fitting as the 15AH square bottle from the Big Bear kit. The S06S controller is built into the base of the bottle fitting, tends to pickup moisture dripping down from the bottle and overheat. It's also difficult to squeeze all the wires into such a small space. All the LCDs do about the same job, you are OK there. You may have trouble fitting the 504 PAS with your bottom bracket. The King Meter speed sensor is standard part, widely used, you won't have problem there.
One thing you should note, the 11.6AH battery has 10A continuous rating, that will put a severe limit on climbing power of the Q100H, which can take 20A-25A. The S06S is rated 15A, you need really a BMS that can deliver at least 15A continuous. The devil is in the details. After choosing your motor wheel (RPM, voltage, current, reduction ratio, gearing system) - you need to read up quite a bit on the rest of the electronics. Which cells? which BMS? which controller? which PAS? which display unit? the differences are subtle, yet important to achieve good results. It also becomes more and more expensive to pay for freight whenever a battery is in the shipment, typically $150+, and also, cwah got stung recently quite a bit by import duty and VAT. £300 for a motor!
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/custom-charge.17920/

 

[Agelos]

Thanks for the reply Trex. Actually d8veh helped me a lot on realizing the basics on the various options. I read quite a lot the past days and after considering all the options at hand I decided to go for a ready kit that I can get from Greece. I don't want to wait for ever to receive the goods from the US and I am also terrified of the Greek customs - they may stuck there for ever! So, finally I am to choose between the oxydrive kit (900 euros) and the cyclotricity one that it is actually offered in Greece for around 650 euros. The price difference is huge, so if oxydrive is not that much better (with the dapu motor and all) I think I should go with the Cyclotricity kit and fit it myself to start getting some hands-on experience in order (as d8veh advised) to be able to deal with any problems. Critical question in the case of the cyclotricity option: Should I go for the
Bottle shaped battery 36V/9Ah
or the
Pannier rack battery 36V/10Ah if it fits my bike of course. I will ask (the very helpful) Zak at Cyclotricity for mounting instructions of the pannier rack, because I don't see any screw holes there (see the photos ) and of course if any of you guys have an idea please share!

 

[jackhandy]

Not sure if you're thinking of front or rear kit now, but the photo shows quick-releqse axle:

You'll need to check they are deep enough to take a motor axle.

Otherwise you could be in trouble.

 

[Agelos]

I will go for a front hub kit, my fork is wide enough. The photo of the rear wheel I posted is for examining the possibility of mounting a pannier rack instead of the bottle shaped battery.

 

[trex]

you should test ride a front hub and a rear hub bike before making your final decision. They are world apart in handling and feel. Then try a crank drive with bottle battery. When you build your own bike, you have the chance of getting it right excactly how you like it, saving money is only a fringe benefit.
I am partial to Bosch crank drive and bottle battery, I test rode a lot of bikes before going for a BBS01 on my Specialized but we are not discussing this possibility here.

 

[D C]

Thanks for the reply Trex. Actually d8veh helped me a lot on realizing the basics on the various options. I read quite a lot the past days and after considering all the options at hand I decided to go for a ready kit that I can get from Greece. I don't want to wait for ever to receive the goods from the US and I am also terrified of the Greek customs - they may stuck there for ever! So, finally I am to choose between the oxydrive kit (900 euros) and the cyclotricity one that it is actually offered in Greece for around 650 euros. The price difference is huge, so if oxydrive is not that much better (with the dapu motor and all) I think I should go with the Cyclotricity kit and fit it myself to start getting some hands-on experience in order (as d8veh advised) to be able to deal with any problems. Critical question in the case of the cyclotricity option: Should I go for the
Bottle shaped battery 36V/9Ah
or the
Pannier rack battery 36V/10Ah if it fits my bike of course. I will ask (the very helpful) Zak at Cyclotricity for mounting instructions of the pannier rack, because I don't see any screw holes there (see the photosView attachment 8736 View attachment 8737 ) and of course if any of you guys have an idea please share!

I have been using a Cyclotricity kit for around a year and a couple of thousand miles, mostly off road. I'm no lightweight and its helped me up the hill's around here and has worked fine.
I have a rear rack battery which is OK when you get used to the extra weight at the back. My thoughts would be that you would find a better balance with the bike if the frame gives you room to fit a bottle battery rather than the rear rack one.
For the distance you need to commute the frog battery should have enough power though if you search the forum you will find a few folk have had problems with the mountings.
I have throttle only which suits me for the uneven up and down nature of the offroad tracks and paths I tend to use though I would think that for commuting and longer/steadier hills that the LCD control would be worthwhile.
The fitting was easy, you need to file out the forks very carefully and I fitted a torque arm for extra peace of mind.
This post has some good info about torque arms
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/cyclotricity-kit-versus-8fun-kit.15722/page-2
If you go for the rear rack I'm sure there would be clamps available for the seat stays and something like this may help as well http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007ZBRX7K/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2B4HSG04ER8RF&coliid=I1VB1GRT1ST4SE
Dave.

 

[Agelos]

Thanks Dave, that was very helpful.
@ Trex: I am open to suggestions. As I wrote before I have no experience with e-bikes. But I think that the important issue here is that I only need the extra power for the hilly parts of my short commuting. I intend to use this bike mostly without the electric power. In that light I am not sure that a crank drive is best for me as I lose my front gear set. The bottle battery (after Dave's feedback) seems the better choice.

 

[trex]

which area of Greece do you live? the terrain influences the choice of components. If it's very hilly, choose one with good climbing ability. You already have a nice bike, you know what it feels like if you have to swap yours for a Dutch style step through. Well, swapping a rear hub for a front hub is a bit like that. Look at all the models sold in the shop, you'll get ideas from them what you really want.
you really need to test ride before spending that much money or you will regret your decision.
The default strategy is buying an 8-Fun kit on ebay. They are the common low end yardstick for conversion.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8Fun-Ebike-Electric-Bike-Conversion-Kit-36V-250W-/190694074560
Buying a kit saves you money on design and branding of ready built bikes but the wrong kit turns your nice bike into a Chinese utilitarian.

 

[Agelos]

I live in Athens, don't need the bike to climb hills, just to commute to work without the sweat! Actually, I love hill climbing,but with my other bikes when I go out training with proper attire and a nice shower (and no meeting or clients) waiting for me on my return. By the way, I tested the oxydrive kit fitted on a hardtail very similar to mine and it felt great. I am not sure I want to buy the e-bay kit for the not so great difference in price (at least compared to the cyclotricity kit) and it also seems like they don't post to Greece...

 

[trex]

Athens is a great place, lucky you.
all e-bikes are great at first, until you try the next one, then the one after that. After about 4 bikes, you become picky.. One thing for sure, the budget somehow gets higher and higher...

 

[Agelos]

Is it not the same with all fun stuff?... My last wheel upgrade for my road bike cost 650 euros for a really modest set...

Any ideas of the kit from ciclotec?
http://www.ciclotekstore.eu/b2c/aplica-forma-de-pago/2/0/2