What do you think of my new bike?

[sjpt]

Rear support for pannier bags to hold them clear of wheel etc.

I never know why so few racks have that.

 

[guerney]

The battery is 48V so the motor should have a 30% wider range of power compared to 36V. 48V 10A continuous, 15A max should be enough to climb hills. If you push to 20A, the bike's derestricted speed on flat roads would be 30mph, not something I would want to make.

Hai sell Haibikes despite the fact that Bosch motors can be derestricted to go faster than 30mph - why allow what a buyer might choose to do with your products, influence what you make? If your bike can cope with 20A 48V reliably, it'd suit a variety of uses including towing of very heavy cargo trailers, and easy ascents of extreme inclines for large people who might otherwise have bought a 5Kw Sur-ron. Where would the highly profitable British arms industry be if they thought like that? The FT newspaper is exactly the right size and weight for deadly Silat stick fighting, there are at least 21 ways to kill someone using a credit card, including by stealing to cause a heart attack by suddenly massively exceeding the card owner's spending limit etc. etc.

 

[Bikes4two]

I don't know yet the load rating of this type of racks. I think it's no worse than the usual racks with rods attached to the seat stays. The seat stay rods are not load bearing anyway.

When the rack is loaded the seat stay rods transmit (on braking) the forward momentum into the bike frame. Without the rods and when connected through the mudguard, it is this that takes what could be a fairly large force when the rack plus panniers are loaded.

My friend paid £5k for his e-bike and had a similar rack mounting and even though he'd only lightly loaded it, the mudguard snapped at the rack fixing point. Having said that the general build of your bike looks more substantial than his (can't remember the brand now) and I've raised this point in other forums/postings and owners have not had issues.

As one who does sometimes carry hefty loads in panniers, I'd not be confident in a mudguard fixing point without further feedback from other users as to it's suitability for such tasks. Time will tell eh?

 

[Az.]

why allow what a buyer might choose to do with your products, influence what you make?

Because what buyers do reflect on sellers reputation. Imagine set of council flats on fire or kid killed on lamp post after doing 40mph on bike sold by Woosh. It is bad PR.

I would do the same if I was selling bikes or kits.

 

[guerney]

Because what buyers do reflect on sellers reputation. Imagine set of council flats on fire or kid killed on lamp post after doing 40mph on bike sold by Woosh. It is bad PR.

The news outlets are averse to mentioning ebike brand names when there's a fire, they've been omitted every time from every recent report.

 

[Az.]

The news outlets are averse to mentioning ebike brand names when there's a fire, they're omitted every time.

Try to put yourself in seller shoes. Would you want it on your conscience? Even if name of company won't be mentioned?

Also there is most likely case scenario: Guy sets motor for 20A, burns it down, then sends it back to be replaced under warranty.

 

[Bikes4two]

I can't for one moment imagine why a trader with the fantastic reputation that @Woosh bikes has would lend even the merest thought to selling e-bikes that would not conform to EN 15194.

And whilst not to everyone's tastes, good on Woosh bikes for their compliance with Pedelec law.

 

[AntonyC]

My first thought was (so shoot me) At last adequate mud clearance at one end anyway. As a hybrid with above average off-road ability, a great mix, mud looks like the first limitation, long before the sensible fork complains.

Cargo carrying seems to be surging in popularity and Flecc's nailed what a rack needs to do. It's good to see two tier rails, and sometimes there's a steel strap under the mudguard joining the rack to the seatstay bridge, but it doesn't adjust. It's styled as tough so genuine utility's essential.

As ever the deal breaker is "Can the battery be recelled or substituted if replacements are unavailable?"

 

[Woosh]

As ever the deal breaker is "Can the battery be recelled or substituted if replacements are unavailable?"

yes. The battery uses a popular format from Bafang.

 

[Woosh]

Do you like the front mudguard fix?

 

[Az.]

Yes, it is better now.
Rear rack looks like it was possible to install spare battery there?

 

[Woosh]

about the frame: I know I wanted a frame for our traditionally built customers but should I change for something less 'tank' like?

 

[Woosh]

Yes, it is better now.
Rear rack looks like it was possible to install spare battery there?

it can but a second battery could go in a bag under the saddle.

 

[Nealh]

Frame wise Tony you are a bit stuck with wanting an internal battery.
Front MG is much better.
I like the understated matt balck look , it doesn't shout out bling come and nick me.

 

[Woosh]

the battery is semi-inframe. Bafang set off this trend 3-4 years ago and it does become fashionable. The main advantage of locating it below the downtube is rainwater can't get to it and popping it out is slightly easier than top loaded ones like I have on the Rambla and Rambletta.

 

[flecc]

about the frame: I know I wanted a frame for our traditionally built customers but should I change for something less 'tank' like?

The "tank like" appearance is difficult to avoid with a down tube internal battery and long acting suspension forks. Having the battery on the down tube upper surface partially socketed into it can lessen the effect a little if it's shorter than the down tube.

But nobody has satisfactorily solved the problem of where is a pedelec battery best placed.
.

 

[Woosh]

I use 650B tyres also because of the targetted customers. 700C tyres would look slimmer.

 

[guerney]

Try to put yourself in seller shoes. Would you want it on your conscience? Even if name of company won't be mentioned?

I've read it's definition several times now. Nope. No idea.

How heavy ?

24kgs

He looks about 80 stones.

The battery is 48V so the motor should have a 30% wider range of power compared to 36V. 48V 10A continuous, 15A max should be enough to climb hills.

I reckon at 20A, my 20" wheeler would beat that bike in a hauling contest, and that's a tragedy (if true).

Also there is most likely case scenario: Guy sets motor for 20A, burns it down, then sends it back to be replaced under warranty.

I did say:

If your bike can cope with 20A 48V reliably

An ebike's utility shouldn't be overshadowed by it's potential misuse. Why not test a whole bunch of Ananda motors at high amps? The old BBS01 controllers appear to have been iffy, but the story is... after someone on Endless Scrotum replaced the MOSFETs in his with better versions , Bafang copied him. My controller is running fine at 18A so far, but I killed my previous BBS01B controller through inept wire stripping, or inept selection of ebay trash to attempt soldering on, inept soldering skills, or programming cable failure resulting in garbled comms and bricked controller. I very much wanted to know if it was the latter, and that's the reason why I spent £20 to send the dead controller to the Amazon seller's diagnostic facility in China, because he claimed to have a gadget which could determine whether the firmware had been altered. But after 4 weeks of intense 24/7 testing using all of the tools the mighty technologically advanced Chinese government had at it's disposal, or whatever, he simply said the firmware was unreadable, so I jumped on the the opportunity provided by non-provable culpability to shake him down using a zillion long and highly negative reviews on Amazon as leverage. That's the sort of horrible customer I am - and if that "New" controller he sent which has been sat in a box on my shelf for years (it's great to have a spare) doesn't actually work, that's the sort of seller he is. Capitalism is a dog eat dog world.

 

[Nealh]

With 650b one can lose the heavy suspension forks, running them at lower psi will act as suspension.

 

[Woosh]

I've read it's definition several times now. Nope. No idea.





He looks about 80 stones.




I reckon at 20A, my 20" wheeler would beat that bike in a hauling contest, and that's a tragedy (if true).




I did say:



An ebike's utility shouldn't be overshadowed by it's potential misuse. Why not test a whole bunch of Ananda motors at high amps? The old BBS01 controllers appear to have been iffy, but the story is... after someone on Endless Scrotum replaced the MOSFETs in his with better versions , Bafang copied him. My controller is running fine at 18A so far, but I killed my previous BBS01B controller through inept wire stripping, or inept selection of ebay trash to attempt soldering on, inept soldering skills, or programming cable failure resulting in garbled comms and bricked controller. I very much wanted to know if it was the latter, and that's the reason why I spent £20 to send the dead controller to the Amazon seller's diagnostic facility in China, because he claimed to have a gadget which could determine whether the firmware had been altered. But after 4 weeks of intense 24/7 testing using all of the tools the mighty technologically advanced Chinese government had at it's disposal, or whatever, he simply said the firmware was unreadable, so I jumped on the the opportunity provided by non-provable culpability to shake him down using a zillion long and highly negative reviews on Amazon as leverage. That's the sort of horrible customer I am - and if that "New" controller he sent which has been sat in a box on my shelf for years (it's great to have a spare) doesn't actually work, that's the sort of seller he is. Capitalism is a dog eat dog world.

it's difficult to say if the M100 from Ananda will cope with 20A. I believe in not pushing things until they break, leave alone the question of how to sort out whose liability it is for the broken kits. Also, I think 48V 15A, that's 720W input, is equivalent to the Boasch Performance and more than enough to climb hills with a crank drive.