warning about ENERPROF.DE / ENERDAN battery&accesories

[tomtom81]

Hello, I want to share my experience with ENERPROF.DE and warn others about my issues with this company. Last year, on July 31st, I placed an order for two chargers (one 8-amp fast charger and one 5-amp charger) and a 48V 15S5P 20Ah LiFePO4 battery rated for 1440 watts at 48V with 30 amp bms. I installed a 30A fuse between the battery and my motor controller (a Bafang M620), and the fuse remained intact, so there’s no chance the controller drew more current than the battery was rated for. The total cost was €610.83.


The package arrived on September 13, 2024, but it had a hole in the lid, and the packaging tie was broken. After receiving my electric bike in November, I tested the battery and immediately noticed something was wrong. The fully charged battery should show a voltage close to 54V, but it only measured 50.3V with a universal power meter. The bike’s controller also showed the charge at only 73%.


I first contacted the company in mid-December via their online form. When I didn’t receive a response, I sent multiple emails and finally heard back on January 30, 2025. They asked me to send the battery back for analysis and repair. The battery was shipped on February 14, 2025, but upon its return, the issue was still not resolved. The battery only charged to 50V, and the Battery Management System (BMS) no longer displayed the charging status. The bike’s controller still showed a 70% charge, and when I tried using the bike, the battery shut off and the bike went dark. Before this, the bike worked, although the battery was never as good as new and didn’t level out properly. I used it around ten times, but I noticed the battery cells weren’t balancing, and the charge never increased over time, which ruled out any issues with the bike itself.


The company issued a receipt stating the battery was “repaired” by balancing the cells. However, anyone familiar with electronics knows that balancing cells doesn’t make the battery as good as new. This repair process has dragged on for over four months, and it’s caused me a lot of inconvenience. My electric bike is my only means of transport, especially for tasks like shopping, and I don’t have access to a car or home delivery services.


Although I have home and electric bike insurance, the warranty doesn’t cover batteries damaged during shipping, and the company’s slow response times have made the whole situation even more frustrating. They’ve tried to make me accept a faulty battery despite the significant amount of money I’ve invested. €610.83 is a lot for me, and I feel the company is not following proper consumer protection practices.


I’ve demanded a replacement battery several months ago, even before the battery went in for repair, but they refused. I’ve also asked for a full refund, though I would prefer a replacement. If I don’t get a new battery, a refund will likely be my next step. Based on consumer protection laws, I believe the company is obligated to provide a replacement or refund without unnecessary delays. They should know that balancing cells doesn’t fix a damaged battery—either the cells or the BMS were faulty from the beginning.


If anyone has suggestions for popular forums (in German or English) where I can share my experience, I’d appreciate it. I plan to warn other electric bike and EV communities about this manufacturer and will continue posting until I get the warranty battery I’m owed. I’ve already filed a complaint with the EU consumer department, and it is now being handled by officials.


For those interested, here’s the link to their website and battery i got https://enerprof.de/en/products/48v-enerpower-lifepo4-akku-15s-48v-20ah-960wh-bms-30a

 

[saneagle]

50v is about right for the working voltage of a LiFePO4 battery. They behave a bit different to normal Li-ion ones. It should be charged to 3.65v per cell = 54.75v, so check the voltage on the charger jack. As soon as you draw any current the cell voltages will drop to 3.33v and stay there, which is the 50v you're seeing. During a ride, the voltage goes down very slowly, so if you measure half way through a discharge, you nearly always get no-load voltage of around 3.3v per cell = 49.5 v ,or maybe a bit less before it recovers, until it gets near the end of its discharge, when the voltage falls off a cliff, so any battery charge indicator lights are completely useless, and you're controller cannot say how much charge is in it as it's working on the basis of having a 13S normal 48v battery.

Obviously you getL lower voltages when under load so only check when stationary.

You didn't say anything that deviates from the above normal behaviour. Check again, the charger voltage, the actual charge voltage hot of the charger, and most important of all, whether you get 50v after a couple of minutes riding. The 50v tells you whether it's out of balance. The hot off the charger voltage is very unreliable because the cells hold so little extra charge between 3.65v and 3.3v.

 

[tomtom81]

50v is about right for the working voltage of a LiFePO4 battery. They behave a bit different to normal Li-ion ones. It should be charged to 3.65v per cell = 54.75v, so check the voltage on the charger jack. As soon as you draw any current the cell voltages will drop to 3.33v and stay there, which is the 50v you're seeing. During a ride, the voltage goes down very slowly, so if you measure half way through a discharge, you nearly always get no-load voltage of around 3.3v per cell = 49.5 v ,or maybe a bit less before it recovers, until it gets near the end of its discharge, when the voltage falls off a cliff, so any battery charge indicator lights are completely useless, and you're controller cannot say how much charge is in it as it's working on the basis of having a 13S normal 48v battery.

Obviously you getL lower voltages when under load so only check when stationary.

You didn't say anything that deviates from the above normal behaviour. Check again, the charger voltage, the actual charge voltage hot of the charger, and most important of all, whether you get 50v after a couple of minutes riding. The 50v tells you whether it's out of balance. The hot off the charger voltage is very unreliable because the cells hold so little extra charge between 3.65v and 3.3v.

no the normal voltage measured from 15s5p battery of lifepo4 just after charging full is 54.7 volts, also told on the post that the bms charge indicator dont work, and currently the battery dont work at all, i cant get any reading from it, nor does the ebike work at all, here is chat gpt calculation

Thanks for providing more details! It looks like you have a 15S5P LiFePO4 battery pack with the following specifications:

• Nominal Voltage: 48V (15S configuration, where each cell has a nominal voltage of 3.2V)
• Capacity: 20Ah
• Energy: Approx. 960Wh
• Continuous Discharge Current: 30A
• Maximum Charging Current: 8A
• Internal Resistance: < 70 mOhm
• Charging Voltage: 54V (15 x 3.65V)
• Final Discharge Voltage: 30V
• Weight: Approx. 6 kg

Let's break it down:

1. Voltage:
   • You have 15S (15 cells in series), which gives you a nominal voltage of 48V (15 cells x 3.2V per cell).
   • When fully charged, the voltage can reach 54V (15 cells x 3.65V per cell).
2. Capacity:
   • With a 5P configuration, you have 5 cells in parallel for each series string. This increases the overall capacity.
   • Since each cell has a nominal capacity of 4Ah (assuming standard LiFePO4 cell capacity), for a 5P setup, the total capacity would be:
3. Total Capacity=5×4 Ah=20 Ah\text{Total Capacity} = 5 \times 4 \, \text{Ah} = 20 \, \text{Ah}Total Capacity=5×4Ah=20Ah
   This matches your provided 20Ah capacity.
4. Energy:
   • The energy stored in the battery can be calculated using the formula:
5. Energy (Wh)=Voltage (V)×Capacity (Ah)\text{Energy (Wh)} = \text{Voltage (V)} \times \text{Capacity (Ah)}Energy (Wh)=Voltage (V)×Capacity (Ah)
   For 48V nominal and 20Ah:
   Energy=48 V×20 Ah=960 Wh\text{Energy} = 48 \, \text{V} \times 20 \, \text{Ah} = 960 \, \text{Wh}Energy=48V×20Ah=960Wh
   This is consistent with your stated 960Wh energy capacity.
6. Discharge and Charge Characteristics:
   • Continuous Discharge Current: The pack can discharge at 30A continuously, which is good for high-power applications like electric vehicles or high-performance devices.
   • Maximum Charging Current: The battery can be charged at up to 8A, which is typical for LiFePO4 cells to ensure longevity and safe charging.
7. Internal Resistance:
   • With an internal resistance of < 70 mOhm, this pack will have relatively low losses during discharge, which helps maintain efficiency and prevents overheating.
8. Discharge Voltage:
   • The final discharge voltage is 30V (when the voltage per cell reaches around 2.0V), which is standard for LiFePO4 batteries, as discharging further could cause cell damage.
9. Weight:
   • The weight of the pack is 6 kg, which is fairly light for a 15S5P LiFePO4 pack with a capacity of 20Ah.

Summary of Key Specs:

• Nominal Voltage: 48V
• Charging Voltage: 54V (fully charged)
• Final Discharge Voltage: 30V
• Capacity: 20Ah
• Energy: 960Wh
• Continuous Discharge: 30A
• Maximum Charging Current: 8A
• Internal Resistance: < 70 mOhm
• Weight: 6 kg

This battery pack is a solid option for applications requiring reliable, high-capacity, and safe energy storage, such as electric bikes, solar systems, or other off-grid applications. Let me know if you'd like to dive deeper into any of these aspects!



what is the voltage after charge when measured with general electric meter???

ChatGPT sanoi:
When you measure the voltage of a fully charged LiFePO4 battery with a general electric meter (like a multimeter), you should expect to measure the fully charged voltage of the battery pack. For your specific 15S5P LiFePO4 pack, here's what you can expect:

• Nominal voltage per cell: 3.2V
• Fully charged voltage per cell: 3.65V (this is typical for LiFePO4 cells when fully charged)

Since you have 15 cells in series (15S), the voltage for the entire pack will be the sum of the voltages of each cell.
Voltage when fully charged:
Fully charged voltage=15×3.65 V=54.75 V\text{Fully charged voltage} = 15 \times 3.65 \, \text{V} = 54.75 \, \text{V}Fully charged voltage=15×3.65V=54.75V
So, when fully charged, the voltage across the entire battery pack will be approximately 54.75V.
Measuring with a multimeter:
When you use a general electric meter (multimeter), you will measure 54.75V (or close to it) across the terminals of the battery pack, assuming the battery is fully charged.
Important notes:

• If you measure the voltage before the pack is fully charged, you will get a lower reading, which will gradually rise as the charging progresses.
• If the battery is discharged, the voltage will drop. Once it reaches about 48V nominal (or 3.2V per cell on average), it's considered "discharged," but you should avoid discharging the battery below the final discharge voltage of 30V (which is around 2.0V per cell).

So, fully charged and with a general electric meter, you should see around 54.75V.

 

[saneagle]

How many batteries has chat GPT dismantled, measured and repaired? I think I'm starting to see why you have a problem with Enerprof.de.

 

[tomtom81]

How many batteries has chat GPT dismantled, measured and repaired? I think I'm starting to see why you have a problem with Enerprof.de.

its math what chat gpt do, this is why i refer to hes calculations, the fact battery does not work currently at all and i cannot get new one because they dont answer to my email and web site messages, even consumer laws state that i should have product they advertize, also enerprof.de agreed to repair the battery when i stated that it has only 50 volt reading seems to me that they agreed that the battery is not fully working, they balanced the cells as repair procedure but it came back from them even worse, you seem to miss a lot of points what i stated on my original post.

 

[saneagle]

its math what chat gpt do, this is why i refer to hes calculations, the fact battery does not work currently at all and i cannot get new one because they dont answer to my email and web site messages, even consumer laws state that i should have product they advertize, also enerprof.de agreed to repair the battery when i stated that it has only 50 volt reading seems to me that they agreed that the battery is not fully working, they balanced the cells as repair procedure but it came back from them even worse, you seem to miss a lot of points what i stated on my original post.

Look at it from their side. They sent you a working battery. You gave them a load of BS about what was wrong with it. You sent it back. They checked it and found nothing wrong, and sent it back to you. Now you say it doesn't work. Who's fault is that.

To get co-operation and solve your issue, you need to deal in facts, not the opinion of some AI that's never even seen inside a battery.

Start by finding out what's wrong with it. First step: Clear you head of everything that you think about what's wrong with it. Step 2: Measure the voltages on the charge port, the charger jack and the output terminals. Report them here. Those results will probably take us quickly in the right direction.

 

[tomtom81]

Look at it from their side. They sent you a working battery. You gave them a load of BS about what was wrong with it. You sent it back. They checked it and found nothing wrong, and sent it back to you. Now you say it doesn't work. Who's fault is that.

To get co-operation and solve your issue, you need to deal in facts, not the opinion of some AI that's never even seen inside a battery.

Start by finding out what's wrong with it. First step: Clear you head of everything that you think about what's wrong with it. Step 2: Measure the voltages on the charge port, the charger jack and the output terminals. Report them here. Those results will probably take us quickly in the right direction.

this is not true, both me and enerdan.de and chat gpt agreed that voltage as freshly charged should be around 54.7 volts. also all the math revolving the capacity, amps and volts and battery cell type also states same thing. and if you read even once carefully my post i have done all the above you suggest but measured from the output side not from charging port, i´v measured the volt from the battery with multimeter. also they checked it and found that it is needing of repairment as they did cell balancing, now as third time - the battery dont give any readings, nor the bms indicator seems to power up, nor does the bike work at all, i´v only measured it, charged about ten times with chargers what came with the battery and connected to ebike, certainly not my fault, shipping company might have broken it or the battery has some kind of cell damage or bms in first place.

 

[AntonyC]

Just chiming in to mention that most fuse ratings are continuous, i.e. 30A indefinitely but plenty more briefly so they don't offer "no chance" protection. Good luck with the heel-dragging, meanwhile that First Step's a good 'un.

 

[tomtom81]

Just chiming in to mention that most fuse ratings are continuous, i.e. 30A indefinitely but plenty more briefly so they don't offer "no chance" protection. Good luck with the heel-dragging, meanwhile that First Step's a good 'un.

this is true but battery is also rated for contineus 30 amp and have built to take little bit of spiking like electronics usually do, mine flat car fuse has 30 amp contineus, 10 seconds for 40amp spike and 45 amp one second before breaking. but i can also see that the motor and controller pulls only 1380 watt max as go for the steepest inclines and the bike is limited to 25km/h with 1440watt max contineus battery, so i think there is very minimal change causing harm to the battery by drawing too much current, this is what i ment.

 

[Nealh]

If you want opinions regarding Enerprof then sign up to the very good pedelecforum .de for their views. The froum is massive compared to our UK forum and it is more akin to Endless Sphere.

 

[tomtom81]

If you want opinions regarding Enerprof then sign up to the very good pedelecforum .de for their views. The froum is massive compared to our UK forum and it is more akin to Endless Sphere.

i did, i registered there and send same post as here translated by chat gpt to german and this is what i got for response

 

[saneagle]

They're saying that ranting doesn't help anyone. Go away and think about what help you need to solve your problem, then come back nice and calm after 45 minutes and explain what help you need.

You still haven't provided any measurement results here. Your whole rant is based on your own misunderstandings. All you want to do is blame everybody but yourself. You need to do what they say. First find out what's wrong with your battery, if anything, then fix it, then you can apportion blame. All we have so far is that you've been applying li-ion rules to a LiFePO4 battery, which seems to be behaving exactly like it should.

 

[thelarkbox]

Hi @tomtom81 Moving forward, drop the AI assistance for the time being. its more divisive than productive.

The collective wisdom found in here is sufficient to identify the problems if any (TLDR - not disbelieving you) and present them in a clear language with qualifying details based on real results and published data. backed up by photo evidence..

AI output without every assertion qualified and backed up with a human checked link is useless in a technical discussion. edit - its the equivalent of 'my mate said'.

Count to ten, step back, n start again...

 

[tomtom81]

They're saying that ranting doesn't help anyone. Go away and think about what help you need to solve your problem, then come back nice and calm after 45 minutes and explain what help you need.

You still haven't provided any measurement results here. Your whole rant is based on your own misunderstandings. All you want to do is blame everybody but yourself. You need to do what they say. First find out what's wrong with your battery, if anything, then fix it, then you can apportion blame. All we have so far is that you've been applying li-ion rules to a LiFePO4 battery, which seems to be behaving exactly like it should.

i dont think its ranting, i just state the facts as they are. also iv told you now several times 50.3v is not normal voltage for this kind of battery pack, also the supplier who made this battery agrees with me on this, yet alone the calculations based on facts what supplier have provided also state that the end charge should be around 54.7 volts from new battery. and i cannot even open the battery or "fix" it anyway by myself or the warranty will be avoided, enerdan.de have stated this, so all i can do is just measure it from out port, which gave no reading at current state measured with multimeter, plug on to ebike and the ebike wouldnt turn on,. so there nothing i can do than continue waiting, this topic was not about fixing my battery its warning of this companys slow response time and negletting EU consumer laws what states i should be give full refund or new product matching the one what has been ordered, i shouldnt have to wait their technician fiddle with the battery or try to balance the cells, it wont make the battery new this way.

 

[AndyBike]

Having had several conversations with Ai, I personally think it cannot be trusted to present facts.

 

[tomtom81]

Hi @tomtom81 Moving forward, drop the AI assistance for the time being. its more divisive than productive.

The collective wisdom found in here is sufficient to identify the problems if any (TLDR - not disbelieving you) and present them in a clear language with qualifying details based on real results and published data. backed up by photo evidence..

AI output without every assertion qualified and backed up with a human checked link is useless in a technical discussion. edit - its the equivalent of 'my mate said'.

Count to ten, step back, n start again...

i v used AI only to fix my grammar errors in the first post and prove with ai calculations that the battery pack what i have should have around 54.7 volt endcharge voltage measured from out right after taken from charger, also enerdan.de agreed with this, they also think same and wanted to fix it by balancing the cells, now the battery dont give any reading and as stated above i cannot do anything to fix it or that will avoid the warranty, so there is nothing i can do for the battery, the topic is not about fixing my battery it just states facts what have happened, and warns people who want EU consumer law abiding service that this is not the company where you get it, still people jabber about user fault and the voltage but, there is no disagreement on this with supplier and i choose to believe the battery manufacturer and logic behind math done by AI than some random guys in forum about it.

 

[tomtom81]

Having had several conversations with Ai, I personally think it cannot be trusted to present facts.

well in this case the battery manufacturers and AI is agreeing that the voltage after charge should be 54.7v so there is no disagreement. though i will 100% trust AI do math better than human.

 

[Nealh]

@tomtom81 , can you show us the charger you are using to charge said lifepo4 /LFP battery.
And can you give the chargers output reading when not connected to the battery.

 

[tomtom81]

@tomtom81 , can you show us the charger you are using to charge said lifepo4 /LFP battery.
And can you give the chargers output reading when not connected to the battery.

the chargers came with the bundle with the battery, you can find them here, i have 5 amp and 8 amp versions with 54 volt current and xlr-3 connections https://enerprof.de/en/collections/chargers-lifepo4-15s-54v and im not going to stick my multimeter to to the xl3-r outputs because i dont know what holes are positive and negative and what is the "ground" wire, its enough evidence to me that i tried both chargers to see if there is any difference in the battery max voltage after charging and there is no difference, so i dont believe the chargers are defective.

 

[saneagle]

the chargers came with the bundle with the battery, you can find them here, i have 5 amp and 8 amp versions with 54 volt current and xlr-3 connections https://enerprof.de/en/collections/chargers-lifepo4-15s-54v and im not going to stick my multimeter to to the xl3-r outputs because i dont know what holes are positive and negative and what is the "ground" wire, its enough evidence to me that i tried both chargers to see if there is any difference in the battery max voltage after charging and there is no difference, so i dont believe the chargers are defective.

You put your probes onto the two outer pins of the charger connector. The middle one isn't connected. It doesn't matter which way round. Set your meter to 200v DC. If you don't know how to do that, show a picture of it.

When you've done that, so the same to the battery - stick your probes into the outer two holes. try with the battery switched on and off.

When you've done that, check the outer two battery output terminals with the battery switched on.

As I told you before, but you don't listen, those three results will send you in the direction to get your battery fixed and working.