Volt metro or A2B kuo+ ?

[tapash]

I don't think your bike is restricted. It has the same 8-Fun motor, battery and probably controller as the Woosh Gale which is not restricted and will go up to about 18-19mph if you pedal hard. To get over 20mph, you need 17A or 20A controller and a motor with no load speed at over 320 RPM or a crank drive that you can change to high ratio gear.

Thank you. But one thing is still bugging me how twangman managed to do it on his 3 year old bike.....!!

 

[trex]

of course he does. When it's not restricted, the bike will go as fast as you can pedal, especially when going downhill where gravity helps.
It's a different situation when a bike is restricted because it is too powerful to comply with the law if derestricted. For example, a bike built to s-pedelec speed may be restricted to be an ordinary pedelec. To make a fast 20" bike is difficult because not only you have to have powerful motor, controller and battery, you also need a high gear inches or development (above 100 gear inches for a 20+mph bike), difficult to achieve with smaller wheels. Usually, the trick is to fit a larger chainring but because the folding frame is small, 48T is about as much as you can sqeeze in (eg the woosh Gale, not much space left around the large chainring).

 

[Twangman]

I tend to regard my bike as a underpowered moped and I use the throttle most of the time these days. In fact have been wondering if I can adjust one of the pedals so they are parallel to each other and use them as foot rests

 

[tapash]

I think my metro has 52T chainring. But still the question remains, what makes Twangman's bike to run 37kmh. As he is saying he uses his bike like underpowered moped and mostly he uses throttle now a days. That means he is not pedalling much to achieve that 37kmh. I am guessing both of our controller and motor is same. Only difference is the LCD.
Then what is limiting me to get that speed?

 

[trex]

he has a higher cadence than you, tapash. I did ask you the question before, did the motor cut off when you pedal hard? if it does, then the bike is restricted, if it does not, then the bike is not restricted, only your legs can make the bike go faster. A bigger chainring helps to lower the cadence.

 

[tapash]

he has a higher cadence than you, tapash. I did ask you the question before, did the motor cut off when you pedal hard? if it does, then the bike is restricted, if it does not, then the bike is not restricted, only your legs can make the bike go faster. A bigger chainring helps to lower the cadence.

Thanks Trex, I guess I need to double check this now if motor still runs above 15.5mph

 

[Twangman]

When your peddling on full pas restricted the volt tops out 19mph not 15.5mph when it has a full charge and depending on your weight and fitness. Though when you get to only 3 bars on the battery display you will not get it past 15.5mph on the flat. The only difference between my bike and Tapash's is the new Wave Software Which is supposed to give you a better ride by smoothing out the power as you pedal.

As far as I can tell there is no way of deresticting via the controller like you can on some bikes.

 

[tapash]

I just found the manual for this type of LCD and managed to get into the settings where I can select the speed limits. It's already set to 40kph. So, it's my lower cadence then

 

[trex]

can you post a link to the manual for me?

 

[tapash]

can you post a link to the manual for me?

Here you go....
http://www.kbmultifiets.com/files/16975/editor/files/Handleiding_display_model_003_King_KM5S_set_100.003.pdf

Btw if I change ONLY the controller to a 20A one, would I be able to go past 20m+? I found on eBay for £7, not sure how legitimate it is
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36V-250w-brush-motor-controller-for-Electric-bicycle-scooter-E-BIKE-/141595192523?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20f7bb2ccb

 

[trex]

yes, it would. 20A is capable of about 22-24mph, subject to the motor holding.
that controller is for brushed motors, yours is brushless.
Don't buy it
Start a separate thread how to upgrade the Metro controller, post pictures of your current controller, we'll help you.

 

[tapash]

Motor holding?

 

[trex]

the motor can overheat and strips the nylon cogs in the gearbox. To go at 24 mph, you pump into the motor about 900W. It's meant to run cool at 250W, you see the picture.

 

[tapash]

I have noticed on the LCD time to time wattage go upto 525 on a windy environment but on 16mph it barely goes over 170...
Anyway I will start a new thread for controller once I get hold of the controller box.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You're completely on the wrong track. Before anything, check the maximum speed of your motor with the wheel in the air.

 

[tapash]

It's 8fun 250w motor. All that I know from the specs given by volt...

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Have a look at this graph of motor speed. Look how the torque goes down with speed. It's because torque is more or less proportional to current, so current is zero above 20 mph, which is why your motor can't go any faster. See how the power peaks at 12mph, then also goes down to zero above 20 mph. Getting a 1000w controller won't change that.

 

[trex]

twangman got up to 37kph - 23mph, pedalling hard. Are you saying that his motor won't go over 18mph? he has got up to 18-19mph with the current setup.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

No. I just used that as an example. Until he does a no-load test, we have no idea what speed his motor is.

 

[Kudoscycles]

Thanks!! Great tips. So, if I have any problem after changing the settings and I revert it back to default settings later, would the shop be able to find out what the settings were?

There is a certain naivety amongst some Pedelec members. Whilst only a few trade members contribute actively to this forum it is read by most of the trade,I suspect that Volt already know what you are proposing.
These bikes are built so that every element is considered to match. If you up the current to the controller this will put additional power to the motor. The gears within these motors are not that strong and any additional power will risk damage to those gears. The torque reaction on 20" wheels is high,additional torque may cause premature spoke failure.
I find it amusing to get a bike back from a 'fiddler',whilst there are some on this forum who are capable of tweeking their bikes and fixing/upgrading any subsequent problems....there are also some who try to derestrict and get the bike in such a mess that it has to come back to Kudos to fix all the problems,expensive solution....yes we know when a bike has been fiddled with,it will void the warranty.
KudosDave