Very worried

RobF

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 22, 2012
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Yes that's what I said earlier in the thread, although I didn't go into quite as much detail as you have.
Ah, didn't see that.

I'm told the method is used by single speed racers - they obviously give the bike some beans and need a taught chain to prevent it skipping.
 

RobF

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 22, 2012
4,732
2,312
Just to add, another method of tensioning a chain is to tap a wedge between the tyre and the brace across the chainstays.

Best to move the rear mudguard off its mounting first, if one is fitted.
 

103Alex1

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 29, 2012
2,228
67
Ok, After getting all the advice on this marvellous forum and being in contact with Matt at 50cycles, I am tentatively reporting the noise problem is fixed.
I found upon getting the wheel out (finally!) that the metal backing plate for the mudguard the paint on one end it is down to bare metal where something, either the tyre or mud carried around on the tyre has worn it away. I am not convinced it is the tyre rubbing, as although it is much closer to the guard than I would like, it is not that close. I am not convinced this was why the noise was there for the same reasons.
I think it is a simple matter of not being aligned perfectly.
So now I had to get the wheel back in! I spent ages getting the wheel in alignment with tape measures, bits of wood sellotaped to the frame at equal distances and shear luck. The chain is a little on the slack side. I can move it up and down approx 5/8" and although it should be only 1/2" it seems ok, it does not droop under its own weight or wobble side to side excessively. To be honest I was so frustrated tightening and loosening the nuts when it finally stayed perfectly central it was shear relief. Getting the gears reconnected is a frustrating faff. I am going to have to add a 2mm allen key and a pair of grips to my roadside puncture repair kit!
I have ridden up the hill outside my house in every gear without power on and the same with power. No noise!
I phoned Matt to update him and he gave me some additional tips for getting the right tension in the chain whilst tightening the cap nuts. Nice chap and very helpful.
To be fair to 50Cycles, one of their guys was on his way to Manchester for something and offered to come take a look and if it was indeed a problem with the hub, take it back to the shop and fix it for me. Thankfully that wont have to happen now.

I find hub gears to be awkward and an excessive amount of faffing is needed to simply change a tyre or mend a puncture. I am used to derailleurs where all you need is to make sure the wheel is central and Bob's your uncle.

Please do not take my problems as a reflection upon 50Cycles. When things go wrong they do their best to fix things. The original problem could have been something as simple as a nut not being at the correct tightness and my riding over a bump knocking it out of perfect alignment.
I stand by my thoughts on the poorness of the documentation by Kalkhoff though from my other thread, but this is certainly not 50Cycles fault. Maybe I should write to the boss of Kalkhoff and poke him with a pointy stick?
Really glad you seem to be getting there - don't worry too much about centralising the wheel perfectly. It's far more important that the wheel is held 'near as' but tightly clamped & chain tight due to transmission through the chain etc. You can always adjust the brakes slightly if you need to - there is margin for error without winding up with the troubles you've been having.

Appreciate this seems a terrible faff at first but it's a bit like my 1st soldering job that took me 3 hours to splice a few wires together with guidance videos and meticulously trying to achieve perfection. When I did the same job a few days ago after much practice, it took me 10 minutes including heating up the soldering iron.... and I made a far better job of it. ;)

It takes time to master the riding style and work out best gears for cadence, pedal force etc. Do you have a speedo ? The main problem I have with the Kalkhoff is that I'm up to 15.5mph so blooming fast after setting out the motor barely has a chance to deliver before the legal cutoff kicks in :)