twist impressions.

[alanterrill]

I'm glad to see people recommending mirrors here - I've always used a bar end mirror on all my bikes, and wouldn't be without one - I can't understand why so few people use them. My preference is for the Mirrycle mountain bike bar end mirror, which fits the Twist perfectly. I prefer this one because you don't get a distorted view -some mirrors tend to make things look further away than they are. Once tightened, I haven't had any problems with them working loose - I've had to replace the glass once or twice when the bike, (not my Twist fortunately), has fallen over, but Mirrycle used to sell all the parts separately (don't know if they still do, as its several years since I last broke one). Available at lots of bike shops and St Johns at £14.99.

Alan

 

[JohnInStockie]

Disaster!!!

Aaargh, just tried to fit the 14T sprocket to me SRAM P5 and it doesnt fit!!!

The SRAM one has a 'bowled' effect, the 2 I got from St Johns Cycles do not. So I phoned St Johns and asked if I had the right ones or did I need a spacer of some sort and they sad, 'No they dont make them like that below 17T, the only thing yu can do is send it back for a refund'.

Disaster! Any Advice anyone?

 

[flecc]

I've been able to use both straight and bowed ones on my SRAM hub John. In what way doesn't it fit? Is the circlip unable to reach it's groove?
.

 

[JohnInStockie]

REALLY!!! It does fit over the thing and the circlip looks fine, but it looks too close to the hub cover. It looks smaller than the thing it bats up against. The 'bows' in the teeth have only a millimeter of clearance abouse the hub guard cover thing.

Have you found this too?

 

[JohnInStockie]

If I remove the HUB protective cover then it looks a better fit, is that wise?

 

[flecc]

Best leave the cover on John. They do sit close, but as long as there is a clearance, however small, that's fine. The chain line difference is insignificant.

It's been common practice for years to use Shimano, SRAM and Sturmey sprockets interchangeably, sometimes in one direction only. each has small differences, but if it goes on and clears, just try it.

 

[JohnInStockie]

Thanks Flecc, well here goes.

 

[JohnInStockie]

Nope, theres not enough clearance. The chain is not biting the teeth. Any ideas?

 

[flecc]

Then it's the diameter John, I've never tried one that small. It seems you can't go that far then.
.

 

[JohnInStockie]

I'll try it out, maybe it needs to bed or something. It is gripping partially in places.

 

[flecc]

Is the chain definitely fouling something on the hub John, or is it just the chain unable to sit fully down on the sprocket? If the latter, it might be a 3/32 chain held high by a 1/8th sprocket.

 

[Flying Kiwi]

SRAMs own smallest recessed P5 sprocket is 16T

SRAM do make a 16T recessed sprocket to suit the P5 but as far as there own recessed sprockets (rather than using another brand), thats the smallest they go. Fisher Outdoor Leisure Limited: H390: SRAM Sprocket 16T Offset (for Internal Gear Hubs) (£2.99 through Fishers).

 

[JohnInStockie]

Bother!

Nope, it didnt work

Flecc - Unfortunately the hub protector is definately fouling the chain. Its forcing it ri de up and off of the sprocket as the chain goes aroun the back of the sprocket.

Flying Kiwi - good spot!

Flecc - What would the differential be for the 16T as opposed the 17T (I think I will have every possible combination from you soon )

Thanks guys

John

 

[JohnInStockie]

On the bright side I can now get the twist back wheel off in under a minute

 

[JohnInStockie]

Right thats it back to normal. It took me nigh on 2 hours to get to the point of putting that 14T sprocket on, but Ive just taken it off and replaced the 17T in about 10 mins, Im learnin'.

Ended up with a good technique for removing circlips using electrical screwdrivers (the really small ones). They just fit in the 3 bevels in the fixture so that you can lever the circlip away, then use another one underneath to raise and just hold that one still while you use the first to flick it up.

Putting them back on easy too, line up the circlip 'join' at one of the bevels and push with your fingers from the join so that the circlip is just over the top of the fitting, then get your 2 e-screwdrivers and place in the other 2 bevels from above the circlip and push the back of the circlip down, then push the front down and it will snap into place.

John

 

[flecc]

Two screwdrivers is a popular method as you say John, but circlip pliers work with some care. Heres the top and bottom gear difference with 16 and 17 tooth sprockets

16 tooth, 36", 92", approx 16.8 mph final cut off

17 tooth, 34", 86", approx 15.7 mph final cut off

As usual these cutoff speeds are approximate for these bikes.
.

 

[JohnInStockie]

Thanks for that Flecc, and thanks Flying Kiwi. 16T OFFSET on its way

John

 

[Flying Kiwi]

Sprockets

16T OFFSET on its way

Let us know if you can't find any - at the time I was looking Fishers had none in stock. On phoning them, though they were able to advise who'd recently bought a few and I ended up getting 2 from a London LBS - I can dig up their details if needed.

If you want to know how the sprocket determines top motorised speed, you can work it out by ratios. My standard P5 equipped Twist Comfort seems to go about 16.5 mph tops under motor power with standard tyres and thats with the original 37T front sprocket and 17T rear so if 'Y' is the new top speed then 16.5 x 17 = Y x 16 so Y = 17.5 or about 1 mph more (for off road use). The limiting factor with getting much more speed out of the Twist is the front chainwheel as it's only 37 T (at least on the 2006 Twist Comfort models we both own) - fewer teeth than many other road bikes and you're limited with its diameter by the plastic enclosures.

 

[flecc]

Yes, that 37 tooth chainwheel has been common to all models from the first Lafree Twist, as you say Flying Kiwi, very restrictive. It's odd how the smaller dished sprockets have been disappearing. Three years ago Fishers stocked a dished 14 tooth when I was investigating changes.