Torque Arm Installation - Rear Hub - Best Practice?

[portals]

Having rejigged my rear hub setup and repositioned derailleur away from dropouts the rear hub axle now fits much snugger in end of dropouts. No more trips to local bike shop guy to get him to refit it

I have been messing with putting on two torque arms (one each side) and had a few basic questions, trying to get my head around what the best (strongest) way is to counter the opposite torque.

This it what my dropout looks like on drive side (pic below).

1. If I can fit the hammer ebike torque arm (pic below) in one of the two eyelets is this a STRONGER and so better solution that running the arm up the chain stay (or seat stay) and jubilee clamping it in place?

2. Do these eyelets tend to be a standard size of M5 (5mm), this is a decades old Halfords MTB.

3. Does it make any real difference what the order of the torque on the axle is, is it better to slide the smaller axle part next to frame when have other arm on outside or does this not really matter?

4. C-clips - what should they be used for, are they actually needed for any specific task or just another type of spacer washer?

5. Does the orientation of the two arms make any real difference, what I mean is in the two final pics you can see I've orientated the two arms (that make one arm) differently on the drive and non-drive side?

6. I would assume 'mixing' the configuration on both sides isn't a problem, so could mix hammer one side and standard arms other side etc. to get best fit as well as orientations as really it's all about not letting the axles fall out of the dropouts?

Any thoughts/tips appreciated.

Dropouts:



Hammer ebike torque arm - uses eyelets


Drive side - jubilee clip:


Non-drive side - jubilee clip, both parts of arm are orientated differently from drive side above:

 

[saneagle]

You can use the mudguard fixing point to screw directly into the main part of the torque arm, which will be much more secure. You need a 5% cobalt drill to drill the torque arm because the steel is pretty hard. You could drill right through with a 6mm drill and use a 6mm nut and set screw to hold it all together, or you can mark the torque arm through the hole and drill it say 5.5mm and use a 5mm screw through it into the mudguard fixing.

I don't trust those ones you show in the 2nd photo. The slot is too big for the rmm screw. I'd rather make my own arm with the holes in the right place out of a bit of strip mild steel. It only takes a couple of minutes.

Likewise, those ones with the jubilee clips around the frame are not very reliable. I've seen the clips break in their time of need, and they can also slip if you set it up so that the arm is going to move in the direction of the frame. It's a flawed design. It's better to forget the stupid jubileed clip. Just drill it and fix it to something solid with a screw.

 

[portals]

You can use the mudguard fixing point to screw directly into the main part of the torque arm, which will be much more secure.

By mudguard fixing point you mean one of the two eyelets in first pic, or something else?

Yes one short arm would be best, I will see how they all fit.

I don't trust those ones you show in the 2nd photo. The slot is too big for the rmm screw. I'd rather make my own arm with the holes in the right place out of a bit of strip mild steel. It only takes a couple of minutes.

Well I have one on way, keeping options open I suppose.

Likewise, those ones with the jubilee clips around the frame are not very reliable. I've seen the clips break in their time of need, and they can also slip if you set it up so that the arm is going to move in the direction of the frame. It's a flawed design. It's better to forget the stupid jubileed clip. Just drill it and fix it to something solid with a screw.

I was hoping maybe two of these and with the axle now being fully in dropout might be enough, maybe not.

 

[AntonyC]

Here's AlanB's TA done as saneagle prescribes:


and my Hammer arm done in the same sequence. You want an arm of the TA snug against whichever eyelet so as not to exert leverage on the 5mm threading.