Thoughts on converting Giant Road e+1 to 1x drivetrain

Gubbins

Esteemed Pedelecer
Just back from all terain cycles in shipley where a very nice staff member spent half an hour with me deciding how best to procede.
It would seem that the custom 50t on the bike is dished outwards on the inside so fitting a single ring on the outside will put it in between the other two so should give a more central chainline with the option of fitting it inside if necessary.
He suggested a wheel manufacturers hanger and extension because they are good quality and a frame damaging failure could invalidate the frames "lifetime" warranty.
For now a Hope 42t wide narrow ring and 5 short bolts are on order to see if it will work. If it does then new chain, 11-36 cassette and hanger is needed to finish the job and if it doesnt I am out £40 for the ring.
 

anotherkiwi

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jan 26, 2015
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I think you will be happy with a 42, just as long as the chain stays on...

Just trying to cheer you up as you are bored and depressed :D
 

Gubbins

Esteemed Pedelecer
I think you will be happy with a 42, just as long as the chain stays on...

Just trying to cheer you up as you are bored and depressed :D
Looking at them in the shop the narrow wide tooth profile is very different to the normal ones.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/hope-retainer-cx-ring/rp-prod147698?gs=1&sku=sku538570&pgrid=55375185827&ptaid=pla-425642926049&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=PLA+All+Products&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid|sQGJGSFZF_dm|pcrid|253998738371|pkw||pmt||prd|538570UK
 

Gubbins

Esteemed Pedelecer
Chainring arived today and was a simple job to fit it. The custom big ring is dished outwards and as the new one isn't it fits exactly in between where the other two were so chain line looks ok and gears change ok. Been for a short test ride which included a fairly steep hill which was relatively easy to get up running the 42-32.
In the highest gear (42-11) at 30mph (downhill) I am pedaling in the high 90's, in the lowest gear (42-32) at my steep climbing cadence of 65 to 70 I am doing 6 mph and at my 15 to 17mph cruising speed I am in 7th gear.
I don't see a need to change to a wider cassette so have ordered a new 11-32 and chain to finish the job.
It's nice to have 11 sequential gears.. a statement most ebikers possibly won't understand .
 

anotherkiwi

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Jan 26, 2015
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The other day I rode up from the beach where SWMBO hangs out. It is easily +20%, you can feel the front wheel trying to get airborne. The motor was purring and I was using 500 W in 42:32. I still have my 32:32 low gear for the other side of the Basque Country and for dragging 10 kg sacs of rice back from the Chinese supermarket :cool:
 

soundwave

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 23, 2015
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soundwave

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May 23, 2015
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sanding block would be a better idea b4 braking out the big guns ;)
 

Gubbins

Esteemed Pedelecer
sanding block would be a better idea b4 braking out the big guns ;)
Far beyond a sanding block. If I rub my finger across it will draw blood but I have a multitool with a little grinding wheel which should work. I have removed the front mech but need a few miles in before I pull the cable out.
Thanks for the link to the paint pens..
 

Gubbins

Esteemed Pedelecer
Giant Road e+1, 1x11 conversion Report.
100 miles done with a good sprinkling of hills so a good test.
At or just above the cutoff I am happy in 7th and a downslope or tailwind that takes me up into the 20's is no problem and not once have I missed the 50T ring and higher gears, in fact I have only been in 11th a couple of times to see how it runs, and it runs fine. I took one link out of the chain to be sure it wasn't too slack, and once the motor shuts up the chain is whisper quiet and gear changes from 11 all the way up to 32 are slicker than ever with no missed changes, rubbing noises or chain chattering at either end, and of course no double shifting or chain suck which could be cos its all new, but I tend to think its the change to a narrow wide tooth profile that's making the difference.
I haven't been up any massive hills cos I use the e-MTB for those rides, but those I have climbed haven't presented any problems, and its great to not have to think about changing to the small ring before I lose too much momentum, so anyone with the Giant that fancies this I can fully recommend it.
Cost wise.. £115 But would have cost more to replace the arguably worn originals anyway..
Hope 42T N/W Ring and short bolts ..£50
Sram 11-32 Cassette and Chain........£65
Someone remarked that I may wear out the small cogs early, but it appears that you can buy them individually..
This is the first bike job that has gone completely according to plan so I am a happy old bstd.
 
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Jowwy

Pedelecer
Jul 20, 2018
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Giant Road e+1, 1x11 conversion Report.
100 miles done with a good sprinkling of hills so a good test.
At or just above the cutoff I am happy in 7th and a downslope or tailwind that takes me up into the 20's is no problem and not once have I missed the 50T ring and higher gears, in fact I have only been in 11th a couple of times to see how it runs, and it runs fine. I took one link out of the chain to be sure it wasn't too slack, and once the motor shuts up the chain is whisper quiet and gear changes from 11 all the way up to 32 are slicker than ever with no missed changes, rubbing noises or chain chattering at either end, and of course no double shifting or chain suck which could be cos its all new, but I tend to think its the change to a narrow wide tooth profile that's making the difference.
I haven't been up any massive hills cos I use the e-MTB for those rides, but those I have climbed haven't presented any problems, and its great to not have to think about changing to the small ring before I lose too much momentum, so anyone with the Giant that fancies this I can fully recommend it.
Cost wise.. £115 But would have cost more to replace the arguably worn originals anyway..
Hope 42T N/W Ring and short bolts ..£50
Sram 11-32 Cassette and Chain........£65
Someone remarked that I may wear out the small cogs early, but it appears that you can buy them individually..
This is the first bike job that has gone completely according to plan so I am a happy old bstd.
You could also drop in a woolftooth roadlink into the back derrauiler and put on a 42t rear cassette and never worry about hills ever again.........
 

Gubbins

Esteemed Pedelecer
You could also drop in a woolftooth roadlink into the back derrauiler and put on a 42t rear cassette and never worry about hills ever again.........
Absolutely no need. I can climb any hill on my normal routes without needing either the lowest gear or full power, and bear in mind that adding a wide range cassette also creates big jumps in the ratios..
 

Jowwy

Pedelecer
Jul 20, 2018
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Absolutely no need. I can climb any hill on my normal routes without needing either the lowest gear or full power, and bear in mind that adding a wide range cassette also creates big jumps in the ratios..
They aren't that big tho......I use a 38 upront and 10/42 rear on the ebike,I'm a big chap at 18st+ and being able to use those bigger gears means I use less battery in the big steep stuff

I'm also looking at your quote, that you haven't done any massive hills and if you do, you will use the emtb..........with the larger cassette, you won't have to use the other bike for longer, steeper stuff as you quote
 

Gubbins

Esteemed Pedelecer
They aren't that big tho......I use a 38 upront and 10/42 rear on the ebike,I'm a big chap at 18st+ and being able to use those bigger gears means I use less battery in the big steep stuff

I'm also looking at your quote, that you haven't done any massive hills and if you do, you will use the emtb..........with the larger cassette, you won't have to use the other bike for longer, steeper stuff as you quote
Yes its horses for courses..
I am surrounded by steep hills and like to ride over the moors (On roads) but the drop bar road bike with no suspension and narrow hard tyres doesn't really suit so I ride it more on the main roads, but will still climb 1500ft or more. For the up the hills and narrow pot holed roads I use the emtb as it's more suited to 20%+ gradients.. and then theres the down hills.. scary on a road bike!
What bike do you have?
 

Jowwy

Pedelecer
Jul 20, 2018
89
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48
Yes its horses for courses..
I am surrounded by steep hills and like to ride over the moors (On roads) but the drop bar road bike with no suspension and narrow hard tyres doesn't really suit so I ride it more on the main roads, but will still climb 1500ft or more. For the up the hills and narrow pot holed roads I use the emtb as it's more suited to 20%+ gradients.. and then theres the down hills.. scary on a road bike!
What bike do you have?
I have a custom titanium road bike running 1x11 sram etap hydraulic disc - 42 front, 10/42 rear

And a cube acid hybrid one ebike.....running 38f - 10/42 rear in shimano di2
 

Gubbins

Esteemed Pedelecer
They aren't that big tho......I use a 38 upront and 10/42 rear on the ebike,I'm a big chap at 18st+ and being able to use those bigger gears means I use less battery in the big steep stuff

I'm also looking at your quote, that you haven't done any massive hills and if you do, you will use the emtb..........with the larger cassette, you won't have to use the other bike for longer, steeper stuff as you quote
Just realised that Strava actually shows the gradients, one of which is 17.5% which I climbed with ease in the middle power settings and I dont go up anything steeper than that on this bike. Another thing about this bike is that it gives buckets of torque at a relatively low cadence, unlike the Bosch which needs to be spun up a bit to get the power.
 
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