Yep, I strongly suspect bike was built without any lubrication on bearings?? Had an argument with them too. Took bike back with noisy front bearing, picked it up 4 days later... Making same noise. Their argument "bearings shouldn't wear out so quick so we greased them"
Nobody should accept such attitude after spending a million pounds on a Haibike. When you collected your wheels, I do hope you asked for fork handles
£199 for a cassette ? Mugs game, switch to a cheap 9 speed setup, £60 the full setup, cassette, chain, rear mech and shifter, nobody needs 12 speeds on an ebike...I'd be riding it around in first gear only frightened to changed gear with the motor turned on with that wafer thin cassette !SRAM GX Eagle XG-1275 12 Speed MTB Cassette | Chain Reaction
Buy your SRAM GX Eagle XG-1275 12 Speed MTB Cassette from our Cassettes range at CRC. £173.99. Free delivery available.www.chainreactioncycles.com
Hi. I would not worry too much about this. Its all about choice.
Your sprockets have really lasted! Is that 2,226.6 miles per chain so far? If so, that's about 698.6 miles further than the 1,528+ miles my last chain managed with mid-drive bbs01b. It was almost 0.75% at 1,528 miles, changed at 0.75% after some more miles I didn't keep note of, perhaps about 140 miles further? I really should have kept track! Initially, there seemed to be no jumping off cogs with the new chain, then there was (smallest one, 11 teeth)... but not after liberal application of Hypoid 90 and about 72 miles of the new chain wearing to the old cassette.
Sorry to hear that, hope it doesn't get any worse. Are your handlebars completely straight as seems to be the fashion now with mountain bike handlebars? I find them very uncomfortable and don't give you good control on roads.My handebars are 80cm wide - it's dodgy eyesight: Central Serous Retinopathy - weirdly, I'm allowed to drive, but I'd rather not. I don't ride for the first 30 minutes after waking, when there are big black blobs all over the world. Central vision varies in warp in each eye, which does affect balance a little, certainly enough to affect balance on my bike. Anyone who works with LED lit screens should use a UV filter: CSR is the new RSI for IT workers - previously it was mostly airline pilots who got CSR.
Self-test for CSR and macular degeneration:
Front wheel drive for a winter bike? Are you running studded tyres?
It's like a blister in the fovea, it reduced in my left eye for a time, then returned, and each time lines became more warped in the middle... but when looking at straight lines with both eyes, the brain straightens them out. Far away objects of unknown shape, are harder for the brain to correct, hence balance isn't as good as it used to be. If it persists (how long is undefined), the prognosis is pretty bad. No treatment for it, no cause anyone knows of, but I'm pretty sure it's caused by stress and squinting at LED backlit monitors for long periods of time. Occupational hazard. Oddly, I believe jogging helps keeps it at bay.
That's an interesting thought - my handlebars are straight, I may look into it (but they may look warped in the middle
).
I'm guessing you'd increase the amps? Legal, I suppose, as the motor only has to be rated by the manufacturer as 250W... I'm seriously considering converting a Montague folding bike sometime, and if I do, may prefer the simplicity of a rear hub.
www.montaguebikes.com
I totally agree with all this. If you look back I was not suggesting hub drives no not have their place and benefits. They obviously do, but they also have their drawbacks, specifically the hub motor does not have access to the range of gearing a crank drive does. To my way of thinking that makes them at best unsuited to mtb.
I like the Montague for it's fold - it can't snap in the middle. Well, not easily. Someday, that patent will expire like the Brompton fold.
I agree - mine is on the rear rack, and although I did find bags which secure over the battery, that's not ideal.
I mostly agree with you, I do like the idea of mid drive as it allows you to have geared hubs instead of derailleurs. However, for me, a proper mid drive should have the crank separate from the motor. The motor should have its own drive train and not interfere with the rider at all. I also don't like the way mid drive motors tend to be installed. They should be a lot better at cooling than hubs, but they are often badly designed and heat can't get out as well as it should.
I would not be able to justify losing serious money on a bike if it got stolen. Ok, you can be insured, but then your premiums go up as soon as anything happens.
You may not have tried the right mid-drive yet, or one set up to suit you - Bafang have adopted CAN bus for their newer models, but the bbsXX(X) series, although not open, the protocol has been hacked, controllers can be customised; third party batteries can be used even without firmware adjustments... and even if they cease to make them, there are so many in use clones will pop up all over the place, for many years of spare parts. At least, I bloody well hope so. Nature abhors a vacuum, spare parts will find a way...
