Speed matters

[danielrlee]

I went straight over the handlebars on one brand new bike when I applied the rim brakes. Does that mean that they have good performance? In case you're wondering, it was because the back brake was on the right, which I didn't know.

Sounds like they performed pretty well to me. Shame about the tool operating them though.

I did exactly the same thing when I was 11 the first time I had a go on my neighbours brand new US import BMX and spent the whole of the summer holidays with a scabby nose and chin.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Shame about the tool operating them though.

Please explain. Is that some kind of insult?

 

[danielrlee]

Please explain. Is that some kind of insult?

D8, what's the matter with you? Lighten up a bit fellow! I guess it was an 'insult' in a jovial, sort of way. Should I have used a smiley or something? Considering I then went on to say I once did the exact same thing myself, it can hardly be taken as malicious.

 

[anotherkiwi]

The main thing with hydraulic discs is the modulation (control) you get with them that I've never experienced with any other type of brake.

Which is why I love my Magura hydraulic rim brake. On the way to the station I get to about 55-60 km down the big hill and at the bottom there is an intersection. People seeing a bike coming often cut across in front of me, not realizing that I am going at that speed, and I have never had a sweaty brow moment stopping the +100 kg of me and the bike.

I know all about the on/off nature of standard rim brakes and for me they don't have their place on the front of a pedelec. My current set up is hydraulic front and mechanical rear and I wouldn't hesitate to go that route on a future build. The weight saving alone is over half a kilogram compared to disks. And a hydraulic rim brake isn't prone to over heating and fading which is important on some rides around here. As for riding in the rain quality brake blocks are the answer to that problem.

 

[flecc]

The main thing with hydraulic discs is the modulation (control) you get with them that I've never experienced with any other type of brake.

Yes, hydraulic is so much better than cable for control, even with rim brakes.

As you say, V brakes are ok for someone like me, 64 kilos and most riding at moderate speeds. Even when I indulge in high speeds downhill, it's where I can use the energy to propel me along the next stretch and not waste it in braking.
.

 

[LeighPing]

All I say is that you should fit hydraulic disc brakes to your bike, try them for 1000 miles or so, and then see if you want to change back to anything else. I've never met anybody that did want to change back.

I don't doubt that for a second. The v-brakes came with the bike D8veh, and upgrades are most always better performers than the original part. Their intended aim, at some cost.

My bike, in my opinion is just a fun, used, well built, 250w kit bike that cost me £450 (bike and motor together). Performance wise, I reckon that it can perform more than adequately, and in most cases, can equally achieve the same as bikes here worth ten times that price. I considered upgrades briefly. But I'm just going to enjoy it's basicness, at least for now. The whole family love using it too.

Time will tell how well it copes in the long, long run. I'll keep reporting back on that. Brakes included.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Just a word of warning. Your photo reminded me. If you use rim brakes in places where your bike will get muddy, you'll get accelerated wear on the rims. It'll be even worse on an electric bike because of the extra speed and weight. I've seen several rims worn right through, which would be a catastrophic failure, as you can imagine. Check your rims from time to time and replace them before they get too thin.

 

[Benjahmin]

This is exactly why I went for discs. Long and steep downhill runs, here in Wales, wearing out my precious hub motored rim. No thankyou. I may only have mech discs but I'll never go back to v brakes.

 

[LeighPing]

If you use rim brakes in places where your bike will get muddy, you'll get accelerated wear on the rims. It'll be even worse on an electric bike because of the extra speed and weight..

This is exactly why I went for discs.

I hadn't considered that. Cheers guys, I'll look to swapping them over for some disc brakes soon.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Used hydraulic disc brakes are very cheap on Ebay. Don't mess about with cable disc brakes. They'll cost the same, but are nowhere near as good. You only need a front one because that's the one that does all the stopping.

If your forks don't have the fixing for a disc brake, you can change them for some used ones from Ebay too. They're not difficult to change over.

 

[LeighPing]

Too late. Bought some already and they'll have to do. I'm only interested in saving the wheels. At this rate, I'll be having a new bike.

 

[craiggor]

Too late. Bought some already and they'll have to do. I'm only interested in saving the wheels. At this rate, I'll be having a new bike.

The wheel will have to go,unless you have a disc compatible hub.

 

[LeighPing]

Is the grey plastic washer, indicated by the red arrow, required? Does it serve any purpose guys?

Can I remove it to give me a tiny bit more clearance for the brake disc I'm trying to fit? Should it even be removed to fit the disc anyhow?

I've fitted it once, but it rubs slightly. If I remove that plastic washer it should be ok for clearance. But I'm obviously not sure about doing that.

Thanks in advance.

 

[LeighPing]

Used hydraulic disc brakes are very cheap on Ebay. Don't mess about with cable disc brakes. They'll cost the same, but are nowhere near as good. You only need a front one because that's the one that does all the stopping.

Just for info really guys..

Is the OXYDrive compatible with hydraulic disc brakes?

Currently you can use it with mechanical disc brakes and the V-brakes type, we are working on the compatible version for hydraulic disc brakes. You could only use it with the hydraulic disc brakes providing that you agree not to have the brake cut off switches installed on your bike.

 

[danielrlee]

Is the grey plastic washer, indicated by the red arrow, required? Does it serve any purpose guys?

Can I remove it to give me a tiny bit more clearance for the brake disc I'm trying to fit? Should it even be removed to fit the disc anyhow?

I've fitted it once, but it rubs slightly. If I remove that plastic washer it should be ok for clearance. But I'm obviously not sure about doing that.

Thanks in advance.

View attachment 15011

View attachment 15012

That looks like a hub spacer used to increase clearance between the disc caliper and motor. They're usually required with DD hub motors due to their size and flat profile causing high likelihood of clearance issues, but I can't think why you'd need one on a small geared hub motor. I think you should be safe to remove/relocate it, but maybe wait for confirmation from someone else first.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Just for info really guys..

Is the OXYDrive compatible with hydraulic disc brakes?

Currently you can use it with mechanical disc brakes and the V-brakes type, we are working on the compatible version for hydraulic disc brakes. You could only use it with the hydraulic disc brakes providing that you agree not to have the brake cut off switches installed on your bike.

Hub motors don't have the run on problem mid-drives have, especially if used with a modern sine wave controller. I never mounted cut off switches to my hub motor bike and never ever needed them in 3200+ km.

I am mounting a cut off switch to my new GSM powered bike. If you feel you have to, you can do as I will be doing and have hydraulic front and mechanical rear brake.

 

[D C]

Is the grey plastic washer, indicated by the red arrow, required? Does it serve any purpose guys?

Can I remove it to give me a tiny bit more clearance for the brake disc I'm trying to fit? Should it even be removed to fit the disc anyhow?

I've fitted it once, but it rubs slightly. If I remove that plastic washer it should be ok for clearance. But I'm obviously not sure about doing that.

Thanks in advance.

View attachment 15011

View attachment 15012

It's there to stop the bolts going too far in if you don't fit a disc brake rotor.
When you fit the rotor remove the spacer first and make sure you use the original bolts which are on the motor now as the bolts which come with the new rotor will probably be longer and foul the insides of the motor.
Dave.

 

[LeighPing]

It's there to stop the bolts going too far in if you don't fit a disc brake rotor.
When you fit the rotor remove the spacer first and make sure you use the original bolts which are on the motor now as the bolts which come with the new rotor will probably be longer and foul the insides of the motor.
Dave.

I was just about to test ride it.. I'll go take it off and start again then.

Cheers for the info guys. It's truly welcome.

 

[LeighPing]

Thankyou gentlemen.

Works ok in the hallway on a throttle test and brake. I'm off out for a proper test now. Just the front brake fitted for now. Awaiting delivery of an adaptor part for the rear wheel.

 

[anotherkiwi]

I really don't like that curve in the brake wire... I would have thought a straight pull would be more efficient?