Could that be mismatched parts?
I thought it was a bit odd myself, especially with the sensor beng bent/angled upwards.
Slow pedal assist:
- Thread starter billyx22
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I thought it was a bit odd myself, especially with the sensor beng bent/angled upwards.
Do you think it could be a mismatched set, highly unlikely I know but.....
It does look very odd, I have been looking at a few correctly fitted ones and they look perfect in every angle.
Getting the supplier to believe this is going to be very tricky, if they ever reply that is.
So, the thing is, even though the bike is brand new it has no guarantee, to speak of because I got it at a very good price.
It looks like it's down to me to sort it out.
If I was to buy a split ring disc and sensor and just disconnect at controller and plug the new one in could that work?
I'd rather get this one working if I could, is there any chance the controller could be causing the problem.
Thanks.
It looks like it's down to me to sort it out.
If I was to buy a split ring disc and sensor and just disconnect at controller and plug the new one in could that work?
I'd rather get this one working if I could, is there any chance the controller could be causing the problem.
Thanks.
If you turn the bike upside down, after checking nothing on the handle bars will get broken 
Turn the bike on and test as is by turning the pedals until the motor comes on (this is just a reference point) then try getting the sensor more inline with the magnets and test if the fault goes away, you could remove the sensor and just tape it in place for a test, you could hold it by hand being careful that the chain and sprocket doesn't remove a finger, or bend a Z bend into the bracket to align the sensor if there is enough space, at the very least you should be able to verify the sensor position is the culprit before buying new bits.
On the plus side look how much new knowledge on e-bikes and how they work that you are getting
Turn the bike on and test as is by turning the pedals until the motor comes on (this is just a reference point) then try getting the sensor more inline with the magnets and test if the fault goes away, you could remove the sensor and just tape it in place for a test, you could hold it by hand being careful that the chain and sprocket doesn't remove a finger, or bend a Z bend into the bracket to align the sensor if there is enough space, at the very least you should be able to verify the sensor position is the culprit before buying new bits.
On the plus side look how much new knowledge on e-bikes and how they work that you are getting
That's me sorted for a couple of hours!If you turn the bike upside down, after checking nothing on the handle bars will get broken
Turn the bike on and test as is by turning the pedals until the motor comes on (this is just a reference point) then try getting the sensor more inline with the magnets and test if the fault goes away, you could remove the sensor and just tape it in place for a test, you could hold it by hand being careful that the chain and sprocket doesn't remove a finger, or bend a Z bend into the bracket to align the sensor if there is enough space, at the very least you should be able to verify the sensor position is the culprit before buying new bits.
On the plus side look how much new knowledge on e-bikes and how they work that you are getting
I needed something to try, thanks.
Will report back on loss of finger count.
I do like to learn along the way, will give it my best shot.
Just one more thing if I may.
The motor is supposed to cut out at 15mph does this same sensor/disc have anything to do with that?
Thanks.
Now I am on a roll..... I have a display unit bought last year.
I have opened the controller casing but there is no corresponding connection
Does this mean I need to buy another controller if I want to add a display?
Picture of the display connector.
I have opened the controller casing but there is no corresponding connection
Does this mean I need to buy another controller if I want to add a display?
Picture of the display connector.
Attachments
No, generally unrelated.
Pleased to here the PAS is working, congratulations on sticking with it.
Re the display looks like as you say it,s not compatible.
A display is not really an essential item a cheap bike computer will give miles, odo, average and a lot even nag for oiling the chain etc
, the last one I bought was $6 aud with all of the above.You will get a good feel for range once you have charged a few times, if you have a 2 amp charger and it takes 2 hours to charge then you have used less than 4 ah, since they tend to taper the charge toward the end, if you just use the charge time x charge current of the charger it will give you a good reserve "tank" of amp hours used.
You will also get an idea of what each LED is indicating capacity left wise after a few charges.
The batteries range will increase in capacity over the first few charges so don't panic if the range seems short at first, and on steep hills the battery indicator will tend to drop alarmingly at times, don't worry as once your on the flat it should return to a correct reading, its just the heavy load on the batteries causing the voltage to drop.
Hopefully that all makes sense.
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It makes perfect sense, thank you.No, generally unrelated.
Pleased to here the PAS is working, congratulations on sticking with it.
Re the display looks like as you say it,s not compatible.
A display is not really an essential item a cheap bike computer will give miles, odo, average and a lot even nag for oiling the chain etc
You will get a good feel for range once you have charged a few times, if you have a 2 amp charger and it takes 2 hours to charge then you have used less than 4 ah, since they tend to taper the charge toward the end, if you just use the charge time x charge current of the charger it will give you a good reserve "tank" of amp hours used.
You will also get an idea of what each LED is indicating capacity left wise after a few charges.
The batteries range will increase in capacity over the first few charges so don't panic if the range seems short at first, and on steep hills the battery indicator will tend to drop alarmingly at times, don't worry as once your on the flat it should return to a correct reading, its just the heavy load on the batteries causing the voltage to drop.
Hopefully that all makes sense.
The reason I asked about the sensor was I wanted to test at what speed the motor is cutting out, when I did ride it seemed it was going a lot faster than 15mph.
So you mean one of those wireless displays off ebay?
Would that do what I describe above, just that I heard they were very unreliable, hope I'm wrong.
Thanks.
Any reasonable cycle computer, wired or wireless will do. I have a Cateye Velo 7 on one of my bikes and they are good and accurate. About £15 from Amazon and may be cheaper elsewhere.
Noting this post is a few years old if this helps anyone with a similar problem my Yosepower PAS wasn't kicking in unless I pedalled fast In 1st gear.
As I has an all in one crank set it has a separate magnet disk and sensor.
It turned out that the sensor at 6mm away from the magnetic disk was too greater distance but once reduced to 2mm the PAS now kicks in within half a turn of the pedal.
Apparently it was due to the distance between the two meaning the disc has to rotate quicker to trigger the motor to kick in.
As I has an all in one crank set it has a separate magnet disk and sensor.
It turned out that the sensor at 6mm away from the magnetic disk was too greater distance but once reduced to 2mm the PAS now kicks in within half a turn of the pedal.
Apparently it was due to the distance between the two meaning the disc has to rotate quicker to trigger the motor to kick in.
No. The controller is looking for continuous pulsing on its input. It has to see the pulsing, then respond to it. Crappy controllers can take as long as two seconds. Good ones are less than 1/2 second. It depends on the speed of the processor and how the software is written. Your BBS01 has a magnet disc and hall sensor arrangement similar to other ebike systems with cadence sensors, except that it's inside the motor housing. You can test it to see how long it takes for the motor to respond to pedalling.
