Resistors on voilamart front wheel hub

Hello all new member . I have a blown resistor in a 26” front wheel voilamart hub . I can’t find what ohms value I need to replace it . It’s got R2 printed on the board beside it . Can anyone help please

It's common to have pull-up or pull-down resistors on the hall sensors. Their value would be around 10K. the exact value isn't important. Anything between 5k and 100k would probably work. Now we come to the tricky bit. Yours appears to have two in series, which doesn't make sense as there is no connection to anything else between them.

 

I would measure the other one and subtract is value from 10k. The one that's blown is probably the same value as the other one, so if the other one is anything between 1k and 33k, they'll be the same.

 

can you see where the via hole H goes to?

Edited July 3, 20205 yr by vfr400

It's common to have pull-up or pull-down resistors on the hall sensors. Their value would be around 10K. the exact value isn't important. Anything between 5k and 100k would probably work. Now we come to the tricky bit. Yours appears to have two in series, which doesn't make sense as there is no connection to anything else between them.

 

I would measure the other one and subtract is value from 10k. The one that's blown is probably the same value as the other one, so if the other one is anything between 1k and 33k, they'll be the same.

 

can you see where the via hole H goes to?

Thank you for advice . The wheel is with a friend helping me so I can’t contact him at moment .,he fitted a 47k but it just clicked . He said the faulty was 3.2 mm x 1.3 but I only see 3.2 x1.6 on sale . Does this Exact size Matter . so don’t know where that hole goes to Till I can speak with him . Is it important you think

Thank you for advice . The wheel is with a friend helping me so I can’t contact him at moment .,he fitted a 47k but it just clicked . He said the faulty was 3.2 mm x 1.3 but I only see 3.2 x1.6 on sale . Does this Exact size Matter . so don’t know where that hole goes to Till I can speak with him . Is it important you think

You can use any type. It's only the value that counts.

 

When the halls go, it's possible that the mosfets in the controller would blow as a consequence if someone tried to give full power afterwards. You should check the resistance between the battery negative and each of the three motor phase wires on the controller, then repeat for the battery positive. Each set of three results should be the same as each other and in the range around 6K to 15k, though can be much higher. In some controllers it's difficult to get a measurement from the positive because of the large capacitor on it that charges or discharges and causes the reading to continually climb. What you see depends on your meter and other things. The important thing is that all three measurements do the same.

You can use any type. It's only the value that counts.

 

When the halls go, it's possible that the mosfets in the controller would blow as a consequence if someone tried to give full power afterwards. You should check the resistance between the battery negative and each of the three motor phase wires on the controller, then repeat for the battery positive. Each set of three results should be the same as each other and in the range around 6K to 15k, though can be much higher. In some controllers it's difficult to get a measurement from the positive because of the large capacitor on it that charges or discharges and causes the reading to continually climb. What you see depends on your meter and other things. The important thing is that all three measurements do the same.

Thanks V much . I’ll pass it on though he said controller was ok . But I donT think he’s as knowledgable as you , I’ll giv him all info . But plz what is Halls and mosfets At the beginning of your post

PS I should mention that it all came about because the bolts were loose and the wheel came off the forks as I was taking it from pavement to road ( foolish of me ) I think throttle was engaged a little.

Edited July 3, 20205 yr by mikeconnect

Thanks V much . I’ll pass it on though he said controller was ok . But I donT think he’s as knowledgable as you , I’ll giv him all info . But plz what is Halls and mosfets At the beginning of your post

PS I should mention that it all came about because the bolts were loose and the wheel came off the forks as I was taking it from pavement to road ( foolish of me ) I think throttle was engaged a little.

Hall sensors are the things that are attached to the green printed circuit board in your OP. The controller uses them to get the position of the motor so that it can fire its power pulses at the right time. When it gets the timing wrong, you get that rasping sound and vibration. Mosfets are like electronic switches. They open and close to let pulses of power from the battery into the motor down the phase wires. Those pulses happen twice each time a magnet passes a pole in the motor - one pulse to push it towards the pole and another to pull it away after passing.

 

When a motor spins out of the drop-outs and the motor doesn't work afterwards, it's because either there is a short between the wires in the motor cable or a wire is broken. These are the potential consequences.

 

1. If a phase wire touches a hall wire, it would probably blow the hall, so the hall would need to be replaced. It can also blow any pull-up or pull-down resistors. In this case, the blown resistor might have saved the hall sensor, like a fuse.

2. If a phase wire touches the 5v wire, it can blow all the halls. It can also wipe out anything else on the 5v line, like throttle or PAS.

3. If you continue to try to give power to the motor by the throttle or PAS, you can blow the mosfets in the controller, and in the worst case you can burn out the motor.

 

From your description, I'd say that the motor cable is still damaged, so it needs to be repaired or replaced. The damage will be where it comes out of the axle, so a new piece needs to be threaded through and soldered to everything else. You might find a Youtube video on how to do that. Anything else, like the blown resistor is consequential damage.

Hall sensors are the things that are attached to the green printed circuit board in your OP. The controller uses them to get the position of the motor so that it can fire its power pulses at the right time. When it gets the timing wrong, you get that rasping sound and vibration. Mosfets are like electronic switches. They open and close to let pulses of power from the battery into the motor down the phase wires. Those pulses happen twice each time a magnet passes a pole in the motor - one pulse to push it towards the pole and another to pull it away after passing.

 

When a motor spins out of the drop-outs and the motor doesn't work afterwards, it's because either there is a short between the wires in the motor cable or a wire is broken. These are the potential consequences.

 

1. If a phase wire touches a hall wire, it would probably blow the hall, so the hall would need to be replaced. It can also blow any pull-up or pull-down resistors. In this case, the blown resistor might have saved the hall sensor, like a fuse.

2. If a phase wire touches the 5v wire, it can blow all the halls. It can also wipe out anything else on the 5v line, like throttle or PAS.

3. If you continue to try to give power to the motor by the throttle or PAS, you can blow the mosfets in the controller, and in the worst case you can burn out the motor.

 

From your description, I'd say that the motor cable is still damaged, so it needs to be repaired or replaced. The damage will be where it comes out of the axle, so a new piece needs to be threaded through and soldered to everything else. You might find a Youtube video on how to do that. Anything else, like the blown resistor is consequential damage.

He checked cable first he replaced sensors without checking that they were faulty cos he solved another bike that way . Thanks for guidance again I’ll pass it on and if it’s beyond him I’ll need someone like you

Appreciate help

Hi welcome to the forum

He checked cable first he replaced sensors without checking that they were faulty cos he solved another bike that way . Thanks for guidance again I’ll pa

Hall sensors are the things that are attached to the green printed circuit board in your OP. The controller uses them to get the position of the motor so that it can fire its power pulses at the right time. When it gets the timing wrong, you get that rasping sound and vibration. Mosfets are like electronic switches. They open and close to let pulses of power from the battery into the motor down the phase wires. Those pulses happen twice each time a magnet passes a pole in the motor - one pulse to push it towards the pole and another to pull it away after passing.

 

When a motor spins out of the drop-outs and the motor doesn't work afterwards, it's because either there is a short between the wires in the motor cable or a wire is broken. These are the potential consequences.

 

1. If a phase wire touches a hall wire, it would probably blow the hall, so the hall would need to be replaced. It can also blow any pull-up or pull-down resistors. In this case, the blown resistor might have saved the hall sensor, like a fuse.

2. If a phase wire touches the 5v wire, it can blow all the halls. It can also wipe out anything else on the 5v line, like throttle or PAS.

3. If you continue to try to give power to the motor by the throttle or PAS, you can blow the mosfets in the controller, and in the worst case you can burn out the motor.

 

From your description, I'd say that the motor cable is still damaged, so it needs to be repaired or replaced. The damage will be where it comes out of the axle, so a new piece needs to be threaded through and soldered to everything else. You might find a Youtube video on how to do that. Anything else, like the blown resistor is consequential damage.

could I ask you if he fails to resolve this (he’s away for 2 weeks now ) is it Something you would be prepared to look at ? And whereabouts are you plz

ss it on and if it’s beyond him I’ll need someone like you

Appreciate help

 

When people join the forum, there's a box to fill in with where you live, but nobody wants to give that info out. If they did, somebody that lives nearby could volunteer to help them, but by keeping it a secret, they lose that opportunity. I see you chose not to fill it in!

When people join the forum, there's a box to fill in with where you live, but nobody wants to give that info out. If they did, somebody that lives nearby could volunteer to help them, but by keeping it a secret, they lose that opportunity. I see you chose not to fill it in!

Didn’t notice that I’m in warrington but I travel around country

Didn’t notice that I’m in warrington but I travel around country

Sorry that may not be clear but I meant I travel with my job so I could probably drop it off at some stage if I have no success With this guy . That is if you’re not close to Warrington

Sorry that may not be clear but I meant I travel with my job so I could probably drop it off at some stage if I have no success With this guy . That is if you’re not close to Warrington

Do the tests first. They might save a lot of trouble.

Do the tests first. They might save a lot of trouble.

Update . I’m collecting bike from this guy tomorrow . He tried a 47k resistor and nothing . So I will try to do the tests that you advised myself over the next week

Do the tests first. They might save a lot of trouble.

I can’t believe this guy who pretended he knew what he was doing .

1. He replaced sensors without knowing if they were Faulty And threw away originals . He fitted ...49E A0073 hall sensor's are supplied by ReefLED can be used for a variety of DIY applications. Are these correct ones ?

 

Model: 49E

Number of Pins: 3

Voltage supply: 3v ~ 6.5v

Operating temperature range: -40°C ~ +100°C .

2. he told me he tried 5 different value of resistors but 3 were nF. Aren’t they capacitors ?

And the 2 Resistors were only 47 ohm and 2 ohm .

Am I being unfair or has he tinkered into something he knows nothing about ?As I said I’ve got the bike back now

Hall sensors with a 49 in the designation are the wrong type. They're the ones used in throttles to give a variable output. The ones in the motor are bipolar, i.e. on or off. They normally have 42 in the designation, though there are other types. Some controllers require pull-up resistors on the hall output, which hold them on until the magnet switches them off, then it pulls them back up again, otherwise they might stay off. Some halls have the resistor integrated. A pull-up resistor would be around 10k ohms.

 

I've seen some motors with a small circuit board for the hall sensors, which had the three pull-up resistors and a couple of capacitors. The capacitors are used to take noise of the signal wires. They'd be in the nF range.

 

Here's an example that does indeed show 47 ohms. Without studying everything, I can't say why they're that low. There are 4. One is on the 5v supply and the other three are on each output. They're probably for protection or to filter out noise rather than pull-ups.

 

Hall sensors with a 49 in the designation are the wrong type. They're the ones used in throttles to give a variable output. The ones in the motor are bipolar, i.e. on or off. They normally have 42 in the designation, though there are other types. Some controllers require pull-up resistors on the hall output, which hold them on until the magnet switches them off, then it pulls them back up again, otherwise they might stay off. Some halls have the resistor integrated. A pull-up resistor would be around 10k ohms.

 

I've seen some motors with a small circuit board for the hall sensors, which had the three pull-up resistors and a couple of capacitors. The capacitors are used to take noise of the signal wires. They'd be in the nF range.

 

Here's an example that does indeed show 47 ohms. Without studying everything, I can't say why they're that low. There are 4. One is on the 5v supply and the other three are on each output. They're probably for protection or to filter out noise rather than pull-ups.

 

Thanks again . I’ll try to see if I can do the tests From the battery terminals as you suggested and check the value of the other working resistor. but Unfortunately it’s Really all a bit beyond my capability . From what he has told me, from what you say , and from what I have deduced ,

 

1. the sensors he replaced should be 42 not 49.

 

2. The faulty resistor has been Strangely replaced with A capacitor of 100nF for no obvious reason after trying 2 different resistors of 2 and 47 ohm which didnt solve it. I even think he thought that the 100 nF is a resistor ????

 

3. The control unit could possibly be blown.

 

Unfortunately he was just Wildly guessing and has no real experience. I’ll repost the problem and see if somebody nearer to me can look at it . I do travel the country with my work And Could Potentially drop it off anywhere, even Basildon when I’m in the area. But thanks for your advice.

Thanks again . I’ll try to see if I can do the tests From the battery terminals as you suggested and check the value of the other working resistor. but Unfortunately it’s Really all a bit beyond my capability . From what he has told me, from what you say , and from what I have deduced ,

 

1. the sensors he replaced should be 42 not 49.

 

2. The faulty resistor has been Strangely replaced with A capacitor of 100nF for no obvious reason after trying 2 different resistors of 2 and 47 ohm which didnt solve it. I even think he thought that the 100 nF is a resistor ????

 

3. The control unit could possibly be blown.

 

Unfortunately he was just Wildly guessing and has no real experience. I’ll repost the problem and see if somebody nearer to me can look at it . I do travel the country with my work And Could Potentially drop it off anywhere, even Basildon when I’m in the area. But thanks for your advice.

Sorry, that was a typo. The sensors should be type SS41. Normally, with them, you don't need resistors and capacitors, just direct connections.

Sorry, that was a typo. The sensors should be type SS41. Normally, with them, you don't need resistors and capacitors, just direct connections.

Wellthanks again but as I said it’s a bit beyond me to try and REsolve myself I’ll need someone Like you who knows what they’re Doing to look at it . (Only thing is the board has 2 resistors R1 and faulty R2 so surely the original sensors would have been a type that relied on resistors )

Sorry, that was a typo. The sensors should be type SS41. Normally, with them, you don't need resistors and capacitors, just direct connections.

Can I just clarify with you . Are you saying that ss41 can be used on a circuit that has no resistors ? Or are you saying that ss41 can be used on a circuit they has resistors But it bypasses them ?

Most motors only have the hall sensors without any other components. Maybe some halls switch better than others and bad ones need other components to clean them up, or maybe some motors don't have such clean magnetic fields as others, so need some sort of cleaning. I don't realy know why they fit those components, all I can do is guess.

Most motors only have the hall sensors without any other components. Maybe some halls switch better than others and bad ones need other components to clean them up, or maybe some motors don't have such clean magnetic fields as others, so need some sort of cleaning. I don't realy know why they fit those components, all I can do is guess.

Ok thanks well if you look back at the photo I’ve got 2 resistors on the circuit one of which is faulty so I guess I can’t use ss41. Anyway I need to pass it to somebody cos I’m not able to do these repairs

Thanks

The photo isn't complete. You need to show the whole pcb.

The photo isn't complete. You need to show the whole pcb.

Ah ok . I’ll post it when I get home . Didn’t think was necessary as the existing photo shows 2 resistors

The photo isn't complete. You need to show the whole pcb.