Reads 40v but just a flicker

[geostorm]

Battery phylion 36v , after charge which it holds ok 40V, BUT WHEN I CONNECT TO BIKE i get a red light flicker on battery gauge and the side of battery, have tried wiggling it but no joy really i think i need to test amps... not sure how i do that without dismantling or does it sound like its a dead un ? i have tried it on 2 different bikes same result.









Ezee quando 2
....... forza

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You need to charge the battery, then measure the exact voltage at the main connector immediately after charging, and then again half-hour later. These two values will tell us what to do next to fix it. Out of about twelve dead batteries I've looked at, only two were not worth repairing because they had crappy cells in them that leaked. All the others were brought back to normal service, so chance is on your side.

 

[Martin@e-bikeshop]

Dave - Sorry for the off topic subject.
Have you seen the other guy on here posting as D8ve.
Confused the hell out of me yesterday!..

Regards
Martin

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Dave - Sorry for the off topic subject.
Have you seen the other guy on here posting as D8ve.
Confused the hell out of me yesterday!..

Regards
Martin

There's two idioms that come to mind:
Great minds think alike.
Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.
I guess you aren't the first to get confused, neither will you be the last.

 

[geostorm]

40v

You need to charge the battery, then measure the exact voltage at the main connector immediately after charging, and then again half-hour later. These two values will tell us what to do next to fix it. Out of about twelve dead batteries I've looked at, only two were not worth repairing because they had crappy cells in them that leaked. All the others were brought back to normal service, so chance is on your side.

Thanks i have tried it over a couple of weeks reads the same 40V

 

[trex]

It seems like you have a dead cell, it appears like taking charge but collapses as soon as the bike draws large current, it shuts the BMS down.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Thanks i have tried it over a couple of weeks reads the same 40V

I need exact figures to be able to help you.

 

[geostorm]

40v

I need exact figures to be able to help you.

Thanks Dave reads 42.2 today as yesterday somebody suggested that it would read volts ok, but could be down on amps. ?


Tre

 

[geostorm]

SEEMS like its what you suggest, whats next step please

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Let me try an summarise:
You charged the battery, and then measured the voltage at 42.2v.
You left it for half an hour and it stayed the same? Please confirm this.
When you put the battery on the bike, what is it exactly that doesn't work?
You mentioned a light flickering. Which light is it and when does it flicker?

If you answer these questions, I might be able to help you. Please don't make any other suggestions until you've answered all of them (four answers).

 

[geostorm]

when iturn key light on battery holder and meter gives one red flicker goes off. still reading 42.2v

 

[Deleted member 4366]

OK, Normally I'd say that you have a short-circuit on your bike somewhere (controller), but you've tried the battery on another bike, and it didn't work on that one either, so that means probably a faulty connection in your battery. I'd look at the fuse first, then open the battery and have a look at the joints on the fuse-holder, key-switch and bottom connections. I'd need a photo to see which battery you've got to help you further.

Alternatively, you can send it to me, and I'll have a go at fixing it, which will cost about £20 postage or less. I can't guarantee that I can fix it until I've checked it, but there's a reasonable probability of success. You can't use the Post Office anymore, so you'd have to send it by courier. It may be a lot less than £20. Somebody can perhaps advise the best (cheapest one). I just did a rough quote on parcels2go, which gave Hermes as £3.50 plus VAT.

 

[Cyclezee]

If this is one of the early Phylion batteries from eZee, it could be 5 or 6 years old and almost certainly on it's last legs.

I have seen these old batteries charge up to 40+ volts and then after a few minutes the voltage drop down single digits.

On slightly different subject, a customer of mine with a conversion kit which he bought a few months ago months ago along with 4 x 37v 14Ah batteries and 4 x chargers contacted me because he was getting a reading of 46 and 47v from all 4 batteries with his multimeter.

I couldn't quite believe it at first and wondered if I had sent a 48v charger in error, but then quickly realised there is no way I could have sent 4.

I then suggested he try a different multimeter, but the result was the same?

The next step was to either go and see him or for him to come to me. He came to me with his bike, the batteries and the chargers. When I tested the voltage with my multimeter, the readings were 41.6v on one battery and the rest were 41.7, exactly what I would have expected, then I put them on our test rig followed by my demo bike with a Cycle Analyst, again the readings were all correct and normal.

Conclusion, not just one but two faulty multimeters

 

[amigafan2003]

Conclusion, not just one but two faulty multimeters

Or the 9v batteries needed replacing in them - they read high when the batteries need replacing.

 

[Scimitar]

Conclusion, not just one but two faulty multimeters

Or the 9v batteries needed replacing in them - they read high when the batteries need replacing.

Yep, that's why I always hang on to my old faithful swing needle analogue meter.

 

[Cyclezee]

Or the 9v batteries needed replacing in them - they read high when the batteries need replacing.

That was also my thinking, but one multimeter was brand new, so I guess it had a duff battery

 

[Cyclezee]

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Yep, that's why I always hang on to my old faithful swing needle analogue meter.

Have to agree with that and that is what our test rig uses.

 

[geostorm]

Dave did you want me to take photo inside oe out, the batteries for Ezee bikes are identical on the casing is there anything i have to watch out for when beginning to dismantle.. whereabouts are you by the way ?

OK, Normally I'd say that you have a short-circuit on your bike somewhere (controller), but you've tried the battery on another bike, and it didn't work on that one either, so that means probably a faulty connection in your battery. I'd look at the fuse first, then open the battery and have a look at the joints on the fuse-holder, key-switch and bottom connections. I'd need a photo to see which battery you've got to help you further.

Alternatively, you can send it to me, and I'll have a go at fixing it, which will cost about £20 postage or less. I can't guarantee that I can fix it until I've checked it, but there's a reasonable probability of success. You can't use the Post Office anymore, so you'd have to send it by courier. It may be a lot less than £20. Somebody can perhaps advise the best (cheapest one). I just did a rough quote on parcels2go, which gave Hermes as £3.50 plus VAT.

 

[flecc]

is there anything i have to watch out for when beginning to dismantle..

Within this link you'll see how the battery base slides off, and this link shows the case inside after removing the surround screws, though with older model contents.

N.B. For your purposes ignore the warning not to open the case!
.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

If yours is the same as this one, there's an instruction of how to open it down the page.
eZee