Pedelec Nirvana

[saneagle]

Yes - it is a square taper bottom bracket - Yes - might try it with the 44t gear as is and see how it goes . I quite like a relaxed top gear pedalling cadence

I normally swap to the cheapest Hollowtech cranks, which saves a lot of weight, though it makes fitting the pedal sensor slightly more complicated. Chainrings and BBs can be had for less than £20

Shimano Deore LX FC-M580 Chainset Crankset Crank 44/32/22 rings 175mm arms | eBay

Shimano Deore LX FC-M580 Chainset.

www.ebay.co.uk

Shimano Deore Crankset FC M770/771 | eBay

<p>Shimano Deore Crankset FC M770/771. Condition is Used. Dispatched with Yodel Store to Door. </p><p>175mm</p>

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Nealh]

Hollow tech simply need a BZ10C.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Ok , removed the crank set, the highest gear on there is 42t, ideally want single 48t gear at the crank (and I'll keep the 9 speed cassette). Plenty of room for a bigger gear - won't hit the chainstay

Non chainside

Chainside






What do I buy / do next ! (Have got bottom bracket tool if needed, but existing bottom bracket seems ok) Also, what pas sensor option would be best if I buy this :

T09S 36V/48V500W 22A KT Sine Wave Controller with Julet Waterproof connector [T09S controller waterproof plug] - $31.85 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce

Zen Cart! T09S 36V/48V500W 22A KT Sine Wave Controller with Julet Waterproof connector [T09S controller waterproof plug] - ★★★★★ T09S 36V/48V500W Torque Simulation Sine Wave Controller With Julet Waterproof connector 1--Rate Voltage: 36V/48V Compatible 2--Maximum Current:22±1A 3--Low Voltage...

topbikekit.com

 

[Waspy]

Clean that BB area first!

You are going to need a narrow/wide chainring to stop the chain falling off

If you go for 48t you may need a longer chain. The chainrings are 8 quid each, you could always order a couple of different sizes.

The controller in your link suggests different PAS options, I like the KT-V12L, it's similar to mine and goes under the left crank, easy.

This is the crankset I bought, the chain ring can go either side of the spider to suit your chainline

Crankset

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Clean that BB area first!

You are going to need a narrow/wide chainring to stop the chain falling off

If you go for 48t you may need a longer chain. The chainrings are 8 quid each, you could always order a couple of different sizes.

The controller in your link suggests different PAS options, I like the KT-V12L, it's similar to mine and goes under the left crank, easy.

This is the crankset I bought, the chain ring can go either side of the spider to suit your chainline

Crankset

Thanks @Waspy I was going to use the existing chain as a measure and then add 6 links (going from max 42t to 48t)

 

[Waspy]

Thanks @Waspy I was going to use the existing chain as a measure and then add 6 links (going from max 42t to 48t)

 

[Nealh]

V12L I wouldn't even consider buy 8 or D12L.

If keeping the BB then opt for 8 PAS (Two piece) fitted to RHS side behind chain wheel or D12L (two piece) fitte LHS.
V12L often fills with road gunk , it needs 1 or 2mm clearance inside of crank arm other wise it fouls and doesn't rotate ver well.

 

[matthewslack]

Six links is too many. Only half the increase in teeth is in contact with the chain. Use two or four, whichever fits best.

 

[Waspy]

V12L I wouldn't even consider buy 8 or D12L.

If keeping the BB then opt for 8 PAS (Two piece) fitted to RHS side behind chain wheel or D12L (two piece) fitte LHS.
V12L often fills with road gunk , it needs 1 or 2mm clearance inside of crank arm other wise it fouls and doesn't rotate ver well.

I bow to your superior knowledge sir, but my experience with the V12L (or it's Lishui equivalent) has been only positive, but then I am a fair weather biker.

 

[Brik]

With only one leg, I can't get my old bike out, and I've got no chance of getting my torque sensor bike to the shop and back.

If only there was some sort of aid available whereby you could use your thumb to proportionally supply the motor with the required voltage.

 

[Woosh]

There is the optional throttle on tsdz2, tsdz8 and the ts85 hub kit from tongsheng

 

[Waspy]

Thanks @Waspy I was going to use the existing chain as a measure and then add 6 links (going from max 42t to 48t)

I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of the finished project Peter. You will basically have a 15.5 MPH moped. More than 15.5MPh if you put a bit of effort in of course.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of the finished project Peter. You will basically have a 15.5 MPH moped. More than 15.5MPh if you put a bit of effort in of course.

Thanks,
I'm looking forward to it as a project. I've ordered that crankset / chainring, removed the existing front derailleur and chainrings , ordered a new chain, ordered 2 marathon plus tyres. Need to put on lights and mudguards

Although it's full suspension, I will use it mostly on roads and light trails and I'm hoping the suspension will give it a "plush" ride - I think I'll get it sorted as a non electric bike before converting
I suspect I will rarely get out of pas level1 , but it will be nice to know when I am riding in the hills that I can up the power and the 9 mosfet controller will be a bit more resilient, especially on very warm days .

I will take the rear hub motor and wheel off my existing bike - which is a 48v Bafang G020. I think having the electric motor allows you to make slightly different design decisions than with a manual bike. It doesn't matter so much if those marathon plus tyre are a few hundred grams heavier and have a slightly worse rolling resistance. Also, I'm not relying on the tyres for the ride comfort, hopefully the suspension does that. Similarly with the gearing, you don't need as many gears and with a hub motor, there is a "minimum speed" ideally you want to keep above, so no "granny gear" and hopefully my pedalling and the motor power can keep me going at a minimum of 7 to 8 mph up hills for the vast majority of the time. Will be an interesting experiment but following in the footsteps (pedal strokes ?) of @saneagle and @Woosh using full suspension bikes with hub motors

 

[Waspy]

I suspect I will rarely get out of pas level1 , but it will be nice to know when I am riding in the hills that I can up the power.

Interesting, I never use PAS level 1, for me level 1 just cancels out the extra weight of the motor and battery. I spend most of my time in level 3 and I save 4 and 5 for hills. But each to their own.

I just hope that 48 tooth chainring fits without hitting your chainstays.

I'm starting to wish I'd gone down the full-sus path before I started this journey. But anything's possible one day of course

 

[Peter.Bridge]

I just hope that 48 tooth chainring fits without hitting your chainstays.

I think that should be fine, the chainstay doesn't really flare out from where the existing 42t gear ring extends to and there is loads of clearance. I think I can position the 48t gear where the existing middle gear ring is and still have a decent amount of clearance and will be a better chainline.

I'm thinking about mudguards and stand. I'm not sure whether the stand from the Carrera will fit because of the pivot points.

 

[Woosh]

I'm starting to wish I'd gone down the full-sus path before I started this journey.

I agree.
Converting a full-sus sometimes seems a little more complicated but the extra comfort is well worth the effort.
Saneagle did also recommend starting any project with good second hand bikes in the past. He doesn't talk much about that now. I think the result is only as good as the donor bike so you should spend at least half the budget on the donor bike.

 

[saneagle]

I agree.
Converting a full-sus sometimes seems a little more complicated but the extra comfort is well worth the effort.
Saneagle did also recommend starting any project with good second hand bikes in the past. He doesn't talk much about that now. I think the result is only as good as the donor bike so you should spend at least half the budget on the donor bike.

Some older full suspension bikes are excellent donors for conversions. If the travel is not too much, the improvement in comfort is worth it for a very slight loss of pedal efficiency, but you can forget about most modern ones because they might have any of these features, which make conversion difficult: Through axles; no room for a large chainwheel; nowhere to mount a battery; chainstays too wide for a crank motor; no way to anchor a crank motor; weird cable routing; press-fit bottom bracket; suspension travel too soft for efficient riding; and more surprises.

I often tell people not to both converting their full-sus bike because it's designed for off-road riding, and they're asking about converting it to ride to work, not because I hate them.

 

[Woosh]

Through axles

Tongsheng has made a through axle rear motor. It's now massproduced.

no room for a large chainwheel

It's not a critical issue. There are plenty with 40+T rings.

nowhere to mount a battery

I have a 36V 10AH bag battery on my full-sus bike. I could have had 48V10AH there too. I am not the only supplier of bag batteries, there are others.

no way to anchor a crank motor

you can always anchor a crank motor to the downtube or seat tube which don't move

press-fit bottom bracket

My TS85 kit from Tongsheng has PAS and torque sensors built inside the motor so PF BBs are not an issue.

 

[saneagle]

Tongsheng has made a through axle rear motor. It's now massproduced.

It's not a critical issue. There are plenty with 40+T rings.

I have a 36V 10AH bag battery on my full-sus bike. I could have had 48V10AH there too. I am not the only supplier of bag batteries, there are others.


you can always anchor a crank motor to the downtube or seat tube which don't move

My TS85 kit from Tongsheng has PAS and torque sensors built inside the motor so PF BBs are not an issue.

Good. Next time someone with a full suspension bike comes on here asking about how to convert it, you can give all the exact details on how to do it, instead of just telling them to buy your motor. That'll save me a lot of writing.

 

[Woosh]

Good. Next time someone with a full suspension bike comes on here asking about how to convert it, you can give all the exact details on how to do it, instead of just telling them to buy your motor. That'll save me a lot of writing.

In the past, you were more enthusiastic, budget rarely came to it. Nowadays, you seem to go straight to lowest possible cost solutions. Sorry if I sounded like wanting to sell something. I can't just say buy this or that, I have to have used the solution before I can honestly recommend it. I have already too many bikes, so it's one new solution a year for me.